I've seen such crazy heat soak in these engines since i started recording temps and i found just a cowl hood got my turbo inlet temps down by over 20 degrees with a true CAI. The heat soak from the engine seems to heat up all of the intercooler piping even at highway speeds. I've found intake temps post intercooler between 110 and 120F the truck "sounds" the healthiest and produced the best MPG @ 7.5 degrees timing (i tried 9.5 and 6.0-6.5 previously)

As i mentioned when we spoke i wonder if the CDR gasses add to the HP and torque gain with the factory intake setup if the intake was entirely removed during testing. I'd be really interested in testing that next time you run the factory box, just disconnect the CDR hose and cap the intake port and see if it gains or loses anything. I was always concerned the CDR gases with heat the intake up but never thought the additional fuel/oil vapors may be beneficial power wise.

 

I also laughed so hard at the ACC vynil install pic. I just put one in my truck, total crap for fitment (although i laid it out in the sun first becuase who reads instructions, its just vynil). I ended up using a MAP torch and form fitting everything. It took me like 4 hours but it turned out ok.

 

I guess you could hear the disturbance in the air since I have been talking about you on Sunday complaining that you are not much here anymore. Any chance you test the decompression gaskets soon as couple folks have asked me if there is some testing backround to them.

 

Lol, Ive felt the disturbance for awhile, Im just hardly ever on a computer, and I havent really had much to update. I hate typing forum posts on my phone.

The decompression gaskets are going on Mark Strock's truck when he brings it over next weekend. He is buying Jim Moritz's built (At least for the time it was) 6.9 that had head gasket issues, and got swapped for a 12v. Later learned that the head gasket issue was from Copper coat being used on the stock type gasket, not from lifting a head. So we are going to swap the .110 thick gaskets into place, and hope we dont have to trim every single rocker pedestal.

 

Lol, Ive felt the disturbance for awhile, Im just hardly ever on a computer, and I havent really had much to update. I hate typing forum posts on my phone.

The decompression gaskets are going on Mark Strock's truck when he brings it over next weekend. He is buying Jim Moritz's built (At least for the time it was) 6.9 that had head gasket issues, and got swapped for a 12v. Later learned that the head gasket issue was from Copper coat being used on the stock type gasket, not from lifting a head. So we are going to swap the .110 thick gaskets into place, and hope we dont have to trim every single rocker pedestal.

 

Good to hear that, I hope they do well. How are the reinz ones holding? Do you know by any chance how much they compress after tightening the heads? I have read couple compression discusions, I believe the original gasket is 1.6mm, the reinz is 2mm, I think Mahle is making some slightly decompressed pistons for compensating the block decking, it would be nice to know some number to throw into the equation.
I have a feeling my headgaskets in my truck are at the end of the life span, plus u will hopefully have soon my order for the 90cc pump.Working on the custom exhaust, manifolds, intercooler but since I am about to change job, the progress is rather slow.
Awesome video on the stock ats IDI modofication that is something that was missing for a long time, bravo my friend.

 

How did you end up getting the 92-96 back glass to replace the ugly splitbar type? Looking to do this when I swap cabs given I can ever find one...

 

i will be going in blind on the task as well and will do a write up when I get it completed

 

It would be tech worthy for sure. If I had the spare cash and material I'd do it but I can barely get what I need as it is. I love the brick nose look. Blunt, strong, aggressive. But the split in the window just kills it.....Its like the hulk wearing hello kitty....

 

I just spent 230.00 at the JY and stripped out the interior of a 1994 40/20/40 seats,quarter windows back seats and head pad and all the interior plastic and trim to go along with the upgrade all I didn't get was the nasty a$$ carpet...I believe it's the best of both worlds to have a great looking truck.👍👍👍

 

DUDE! You murdered it! Just for the trailer harness the JY that had the truck I need wanted $40 just for the harness. Pigtails are 5 EACH!

 

Just read the whole thread, that is a whole lot of information! Great Job! Justin I have a question. I watched your YouTube video "R&D Factory Turbo/093 Part-1... Free Mods" - On the final run when you got the 216whp/446wtq how many flats was the pump turned up? Was the timing setting still 7*BTDC?


I have a 1993 N/A motor with the ATS 088 add on, has the 3" downpipe, B injectors, I tow 14K pounds with it and want to know what is a good number of flats to turn up the N/A stock pump without putting to much pressure on the engine which has 315k on it. Runs great and smooth, however we are taking it on an extended trip through mountainous terrain and I want to be able to pull those hills. What would you recommend as the free mod, for number of flats turned up and timing?


Awesome build thread, glad to see you put an IDI back in smogie, I was sad when I read you were going to that 6.6 New Holland. The idea of taking the stock engine, and step by step bolting on your drivable mods, the dynoing says more about your parts than anything. If I had my list I would say, injectors dyno, 90cc pump dyno, cam dyno, turbo dyno, but that is my wish list.


Thank you for all the hard work on this! Great JOB!

 

You can turn up a stock IP as far as possible and not max out the turbo.
Watch the EGTs - that matters more than anything else.

I've taken a stock NA motor/factory turbo setup like you have, with 2.5" downpipe, stuck a 110 cc pump on it and made 250HP at the wheels(probably 320 at the crank, up from 185 stock/125 at the wheels).
This was totally turbo limited, too. A better than stock turbo would net even more HP from the same setup.

Also, surprisingly enough, it hasn't blown a headgasket, even with the stock headbolts. I was a little concerned about running that much HP through it.

 

Thanks for the reply, did you adjust your timing at all? How many flats would you say "all the way up" is?

 

I tend to adjust it by ear myself. Early on, I used a tool, then realised that I was pretty much adjusting by ear anyway.
I aim for a position where:
1. It's clattery when cold.
2. On the highway, that upper end clatter goes away.
3. When accelerating, you don't have any white smoke. If you have white smoke, advance it. Black smoke means fuel at the right time or too advanced.

Just kind of play with it. If you advance it and it gains power, keep advancing it. If it starts to lose power, retard it again. See what feels best.

I tend to try to get it to feel best at the upper end by advancing/retarding it; if it's too clattery or has no clatter at idle, you can then adjust the light-load advance cam back or forth until it 'feels' right.

With a new IP, it's easy. With a used one, you may have to compromise a bit on what gives you the best response/power/starts well, because the timing circuit in the IP is what tends to wear out first.


You just keep turning it up a flat at a time until it stops. Depending on adjustment when you started, probably 4-6 flats maby? Who knows.
Just be careful, and if you feel sudden resistance, stop. Adjust it back and then forward again, and if it stops at the same spot, you're there.