Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Project: Smogie...RacinNdrummins IDI build

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  #2056  
Old 09-21-2014, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by kla94
Are you concerned about any transmission issues with that much torque?
Yup, I fully expect to be finding a ZF6 if the IDI holds up to the abuse and the ZF5 cries for mercy.
 
  #2057  
Old 09-23-2014, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by RacinNdrummin
Got the pump cam to the shop yesterday and they are going to probably have it done by Friday. They have to wrangle up all the RQV gov parts and bench it. Its going to be set to 350cc's with a 4k gsk. The Pump will be calibrated with 3000psi pop test nozzles and to keep things consistent with the IDI stuff, .5mm test orifices. It will most definitely need a little tweaking when I get the engine fired.


I also got my head fastener drilling jig burnt out, I just need to layout the holes and machine them for my drill bushings.


I might get a start on pulling the short block apart tomorrow, but that depends how well my other projects go.


I am also reconsidering running compounds at this point as well. I can get a 60/68/.91 and a 71/96/1.32 for less than I can a single FMW 68/83/1.10, so Ill have to think about that.
i am curious which application you got the inline 8 pump from... i think i read here somewhere that it came from a stationary engine? just curious also, do you know if the pump from a 9.0l international is a counter clock wise rotation as well, or is it clock wise? we picked one up a couple years ago, never did much more with it so far than clean it up some, been sitting in the pump cabinet since

as for block filling, we have done one that is filled to 1.5" from the top of the deck(just to the bottom of water pump holes), and another that is short filled, just to the bottom of the frost plugs,(to retain block heater)... we used moroso hard block, worked out great, and shattered the rumors and theories that it would cause cylinder/block distortion on our platform, which on a trip to our machine shop and a verification was proven false...

we are just in the process of doing our own center-mounted turbo system, but i wish we had a low profile intake manifold like you guys have, makes this so much easier...LOL... nice work and research so far...thanks for sharing...
 
  #2058  
Old 09-23-2014, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by turbonatorboyz
i am curious which application you got the inline 8 pump from... i think i read here somewhere that it came from a stationary engine? just curious also, do you know if the pump from a 9.0l international is a counter clock wise rotation as well, or is it clock wise? we picked one up a couple years ago, never did much more with it so far than clean it up some, been sitting in the pump cabinet since


Picked it up from 91dirtydiesel, and he got it off of ebay. It was originally from a Perkins. I think the 9.0 stuff is Right rotation, But the 9.0 pump are funky from what I have heard. They cut 4 cylinders at idle, so they need a bit of work to make decently functional. However, If you can find one cheap (or in your case, have one) They could make a potential good little pump. Crank it and it will probably fuel enough to destroy everything but the most built engine.

as for block filling, we have done one that is filled to 1.5" from the top of the deck(just to the bottom of water pump holes), and another that is short filled, just to the bottom of the frost plugs,(to retain block heater)... we used moroso hard block, worked out great, and shattered the rumors and theories that it would cause cylinder/block distortion on our platform, which on a trip to our machine shop and a verification was proven false...


This is exactly what I have been banking on. I am just going to run a hone through the cylinders. At 2" from the top, I cant imagine the gravity of cement flexing a .200" thick cylinder wall of a 6.9. I am also debating on deleting the coolant cooled oil cooler for a couple of plates and an external setup with a remote filter.

we are just in the process of doing our own center-mounted turbo system, but i wish we had a low profile intake manifold like you guys have, makes this so much easier...LOL... nice work and research so far...thanks for sharing...

Just build a custom intake manifold ....
 
  #2059  
Old 09-23-2014, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 300-6 AUTO TECH
I want to see both platform ideas. The question is what are you shooting for now? It looks like the gears have maybe switched to finding the max hp that the IDI platform is able to handle. So, I think one really has to consider when all of this is said and done are the developments you have made something that is now practical to produce for the general public? Is that even your main goal? When you start talking superchargers and inline pumps I see $$$$. Don't get me wrong, I want to see it all happen. From the consumer side lets say that when you have a full line of IDI products to build an engine that can run with the new ones. I want to get in it and drive it everyday without sacrificed drivability, hook it onto a 25k trailer and go, have manageable EGT's, respectable fuel economy capabilities, and when I'm cruising and I stomp on it I want it to rip. That's what the goal of my current build is and there's still more to do and more to be desired from it. I use my pickup for my work and my personal use. I still intend on upgrading and improving on it, but if it got to the point that it wasn't practical for my everyday use I don't think I would be happy with it anymore. Now, that's just me. I am not trying to discourage you in any way, but what I would most like to see when all your testing, building and R&D is done is a host of upgrades that people can afford and use to build something that they can cruise, rod, and work everyday. If you build something that can go out on the street and walk all over duramaxes and cummins powered pickups like we've seen your and NMB2 previous builds do, then you've got a hot seller right there regardless of the max hp it makes. Whatever you decide to build, I'll be watching and I know it will be impressive and your time and hard work will pay off.
I could not have said it better myself, though at the same time I'd love to see Justin here build an All-out build, just to put some things to rest and get his name even futher out there both with R&D IDI and Personally... I cannot tell you how much awareness that would bring... Honestly if I had the cash to throw down I'd do it... Good thing for Justin here I don't
 
  #2060  
Old 10-18-2014, 10:55 AM
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A couple questions for Racin, is your current ZF a close ratio? I remember from reading early in this thread that you use a powerstroke clutch, how did you drill the bolt pattern to make it fit? I would go back and look but surfing 138 pages of thread is a headache inducer.
 
  #2061  
Old 10-18-2014, 07:57 PM
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He is running an IDI clutch, im 95% sure its a close ratio. The clutch is a Valair ceramic
 
  #2062  
Old 10-19-2014, 07:49 PM
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I'm dumb, it's in his sig. I don't know where I got the PSD clutch from. I figured it was a close ratio, the ZF-6 granny gear will be quite an upgrade for pulling that camper.
 
  #2063  
Old 10-19-2014, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by PlumCrazy7
I'm dumb, it's in his sig. I don't know where I got the PSD clutch from. I figured it was a close ratio, the ZF-6 granny gear will be quite an upgrade for pulling that camper.

It was a Valair Ceramic, but the thing slipped from day one, in fact, it slipped worse than my SMF luk clutch it replaced under less power. I called Valair, and the guy on the phone told me he has personally seen that clutch hold 800hp, so there was no way that it was slipping unless I didn't know how to drive, and that the 800hp ceramic clutch couldn't be used for towing... So in otherwords, it was a big waste of $700. Im not big on talking crap about products, I understand not every vehicle is the same, and I understand not every part is the same, But I was nothing but positive about valair from the beginning, and my views soured on them when they wouldn't even back their own product, even behind an IDI. There are about 4 valair clutches here local that aren't holding what they claim as well that I found out about after I was having my problems. I sold my clutch with about 6K on it to a local kid for $100, he didn't care if it didn't hold 700ft/lbs, would be fine for him, lol.


I will be going with a south bend, and I still have yet to detail out what clutch I am going with. I figure I will need a 600/1200 rating at the very least.
 
  #2064  
Old 10-19-2014, 08:29 PM
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one of these days you'll swap in a built up E40D/4R100 and be done with those clutch issues?
 
  #2065  
Old 10-19-2014, 08:38 PM
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Got my engine the rest of the way torn down today. Also stripped that crappy paint I put on off.


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Everything looked pretty good, but I did notice the anti-friction coating on the bearings and piston skirts was wearing...


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This tells me that the coatings aren't suitable for a torquey diesel under load (3500 miles, 2000 of which were at 15Klbs) The babbit is fine, but the coating is wore right off. The other end of that equation, is oil pressure, we just don't have the oil pressure on the low end to keep the bearings off the surfaces. It would be real nice to find where we could restrict some oil and send it to the crank, I wish somebody made a high volume pump for these.


The other issue I ran into was one of my cylinders had a bit of coolant sitting in it since the HG went, and has some very subtle pitting. I ran a tri-hone and ball hone over it, and it is was it is, im not boring the block for it, worst case, I will have a little compression loss or blowby on that cylinder.


I also decided what im going to do for a turbo. Im going back to the compound Idea, a 75/96/1.32 over a 60/68/.91. The little turbo will be externally wastegated to pull a little stress off the bottom end down low.


I was at the shop the other day, and the pump is together, just needs to hit the stand, they said it might be done this week.


I also ordered up a tall fill batch of hard block, and The next work on the engine is to drill and tap the block and heads for the 9/16 studs. I ditched my jig idea after spending $250 on drill bushings uke:, I am just going to use a mag drill that way I know everything will be for sure perpendicular.


So... That's the update...
 
  #2066  
Old 10-19-2014, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
one of these days you'll swap in a built up E40D/4R100 and be done with those clutch issues?

Because I could buy a ZF6 and dual disc for the cost of a slopbox to hold anywhere near the power I want to make... Smogie is a Manual Truck and will stay that way, However, my Bronco DD IDI project is getting an E4OD with a BTS when it gets underway, the EB has spoiled me with its auto, and I want the DD bronco to share that characteristic
 
  #2067  
Old 10-28-2014, 12:00 PM
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So I made a little progress on things last weekend,


I got the heads drilled out for the bigger studs, and I also got one cylinder drilled and tapped for.


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I drilled the block with the Mag-drill as well, as I thought it was going to be easier than the Jig plate, and for 4 of the holes it was, but the hole closest to the bottom of the deck surface is a Bitch because the factory chamfered the edge of the block partially through the hole. The drill bit wants to drift even with the fairly rigid setup of the mag-drill, and it took a little bit of work to get an acceptable hole. That said, its still slightly offset, not enough to cause any issues I don't think, but enough for me to bag the Mag-drill idea at least for the block. I need to finish up my drill jig so I can finish my block. My tall fill bucket of Hardblok came in as well.


For the oil cooler, I am going to run external cooling lines to the cooler manifolds, and Im going to tap into the passenger side of the block where to the water pump supplies the block with coolant just above the fuel pump plate and route it to one end of the oil cooler. The other end will probably be routed back to the water pump inlet or something.


I had some guys on the facebook group suggest that I do fire rings, and while I kind of first poo-poo'd the idea, after some discussion and lots and lots of thought, I am going to do some sort of fire ring. The Cummins Fire-Rings may work, and I have a good source for those, I just gotta stake some measurements of the gasket and the block. I think I can use a 3/32 cutter in my Isky tool to get the fire ring groove in the block deck, and make some sort of die to punch the stock fire ring out of the stock gasket. If I cant make the cummins Fire-Rings work, I can turn some rectangular fire rings on the lathe and use the those.


More soon.
 
  #2068  
Old 10-28-2014, 02:12 PM
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Looks good Racin, but I think your right on some kind of plate to drill threw for the block. That should keep it lined up. When you get done I can see you doing a lot more for us out here. Can't wait to see the finished project.
 
  #2069  
Old 10-28-2014, 04:59 PM
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Very nice dude, nice to see people trying other things instead of the copying everyone else.
 
  #2070  
Old 10-28-2014, 08:31 PM
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Thanks guys.


I did some measurements, and it looks like the Cummins Fire rings will work perfectly with our bores and gaskets. Sinking the rings .030 into the block will give .013" worth of squish, which leaves .062" for the gasket core thickness. Sinking it .030" into the block also means I can get away with a 3/32 width cutter in the isky tool, 3/32 is the exact width of a .105" diameter wire at .030" depth. The head will squish the fire ring both into the groove and flatten a bit at the head...


Its not too often that things like this magically work out...
 


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