fog lights in bumper?
#16
11-14-2011, 08:24 PM
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Mine are wired as such that the switch gets power whenever the parking lights are on. Low beam, high beam, I can turn them on and off as needed with a dash switch. Headlight switch all the way off cuts power so I don't accidentally leave them on.
I had them initially aimed to aid the high beams, but being so low on the truck they don't help much. Maybe if they were at grille level or above the windshield they would be better long range.
For filling the void between the front bumper to mid-low beam they work great, and when the high beams are on they still provide light close to the truck. Oncoming visibility is another plus of additional lights IMO.
For the back I have a single 35w tractor flood light under the bumper on the right side. Toggle switch, ground side switched, so that I can turn it on with my reverse lights or leave it on for trailer hook up. Makes backing up at night with the dark back window much easier.
I had them initially aimed to aid the high beams, but being so low on the truck they don't help much. Maybe if they were at grille level or above the windshield they would be better long range.
For filling the void between the front bumper to mid-low beam they work great, and when the high beams are on they still provide light close to the truck. Oncoming visibility is another plus of additional lights IMO.
For the back I have a single 35w tractor flood light under the bumper on the right side. Toggle switch, ground side switched, so that I can turn it on with my reverse lights or leave it on for trailer hook up. Makes backing up at night with the dark back window much easier.
#17
11-14-2011, 08:39 PM
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Mine are wired as such that the switch gets power whenever the parking lights are on. Low beam, high beam, I can turn them on and off as needed with a dash switch. Headlight switch all the way off cuts power so I don't accidentally leave them on.
I had them initially aimed to aid the high beams, but being so low on the truck they don't help much. Maybe if they were at grille level or above the windshield they would be better long range.
For filling the void between the front bumper to mid-low beam they work great, and when the high beams are on they still provide light close to the truck. Oncoming visibility is another plus of additional lights IMO.
For the back I have a single 35w tractor flood light under the bumper on the right side. Toggle switch, ground side switched, so that I can turn it on with my reverse lights or leave it on for trailer hook up. Makes backing up at night with the dark back window much easier.
I had them initially aimed to aid the high beams, but being so low on the truck they don't help much. Maybe if they were at grille level or above the windshield they would be better long range.
For filling the void between the front bumper to mid-low beam they work great, and when the high beams are on they still provide light close to the truck. Oncoming visibility is another plus of additional lights IMO.
For the back I have a single 35w tractor flood light under the bumper on the right side. Toggle switch, ground side switched, so that I can turn it on with my reverse lights or leave it on for trailer hook up. Makes backing up at night with the dark back window much easier.
#18
11-14-2011, 09:44 PM
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The p/o tapped into one of the wires, I have to look at the schematic to see which one exactly. There's an inline fuse installed to prevent any damage. My auxiliary switch is the one from the kit mounted on the right side of the gauge surround where the electronic 4wd switches would be (inside the "square")
EDIT:
According to the diagram on Alldata, you will be looking for the brown wire coming off the headlight switch. This powers the parking lamps and cab lights (if equipped)
EDIT:
According to the diagram on Alldata, you will be looking for the brown wire coming off the headlight switch. This powers the parking lamps and cab lights (if equipped)
#19
11-14-2011, 10:59 PM
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The p/o tapped into one of the wires, I have to look at the schematic to see which one exactly. There's an inline fuse installed to prevent any damage. My auxiliary switch is the one from the kit mounted on the right side of the gauge surround where the electronic 4wd switches would be (inside the "square")
EDIT:
According to the diagram on Alldata, you will be looking for the brown wire coming off the headlight switch. This powers the parking lamps and cab lights (if equipped)
EDIT:
According to the diagram on Alldata, you will be looking for the brown wire coming off the headlight switch. This powers the parking lamps and cab lights (if equipped)
#21
11-14-2011, 11:16 PM
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#23
11-15-2011, 07:16 AM
Fleet Owner
ANd the driving lights can ONLY come on with the high beams (Beam pattern is hight and bright)
#24
11-15-2011, 01:02 PM
#25
11-15-2011, 01:07 PM
I can see why driving lights ate supposed to only be on with the high beams. I don't see why it matters with the fog lights though. I like having them on with the high beams. It gives more peripheral lighting. I figure if the high beams are on, there should be nobody in front of you, so who should care how bright it is.
#26
11-15-2011, 01:44 PM
I have mine wired to a switch the hellas can only be on when the lights are, but you can switch it after then. Up here in ND they dont care what we do, but you wouldnt have the driving lights on when cars are driving toward you.
#27
11-15-2011, 08:18 PM
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Mine are set up so that they are of most use to me. With them on and aimed low nobody is being blinded, no problems there. High beams on, they fill the void where the low beams normally are. WI doesn't seem to have any problems with it, so long as you're using common sense. I see no problem; at least I'm not plugging in an Ebay HID kit and causing everyone else all kinds of misery. Those are a bigger problem than having fog lights on with high beams IMO.
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