I have been having some issues with my truck starting lately.

If I try to start normally, the required stuff comes on in the on position, but in start position, everything cuts out and the dash cluster cuts out.

Now to test this, I took a 0 gauge amp wire that I had laying around, and jumped the battery across the solenoid on the passenger side of the firewall. As long as the key is on, the truck starts and runs great.

I have cleaned all the grounds, and the terminals on the starter.

I thought it was the solenoid on the firewall but that has been replaced with 2 new ones.

I took the starter and battery in and had that tested. Tested good.

The only odd thing that presents as a symptom is that I do not need the clutch depressed to start the truck.

This all began after my truck had the bushing that connects the clutch slave to the petal linkage snap. I used wire to hold it together until I could get the parts to properly fix it. Now that was resolved with a junkyard brake / clutch petal assembly and bushing.

I have a few ideas of a direction to go, would rather not waste alot of time or money going the wrong route. one has something to do with the ignition switch wiring at bottom of the column. the other is that there is a short in my wiring. The last option is a neutral safety switch. Anyone else have ideas on what could cause this?

For now, I have a 2 way toggle switch wired from the battery to the solenoid on the firewall, that when turned "on" jumps it and allows me to at least start and drive the truck. This is not a long term fix though and I want it to be fixed properly rather than jerry-rigged.

Any help or suggestion would be appreciated.

 

Sure sign of needing new ignition switch however if you're worried about replacing it finding its not the problem easy enough to test one first.

That and the neutral safety switch adjusted.

 

Thanks for the reply. By ignition switch, do you mean the actual part the key is put into, or do you mean where it connects at the bottom of the column?

I kinda figured that the neutral safety switch had some issues. this just confirms it.

Any idea on the procedure for testing the ignition switch? Tools required?

Any idea where the neutral safety switch is and what might need to be done to adjust it if that's all it needs?

 

By ignition switch the electrical switch down on the column not the key tumbler.

Easy to change/adjust and likely includes instructions for adjustment if not and you need help you only need ask.

As far as testing it there are four wires should read 12v + with the key in the "start" position, if one or more fail testing replace the switch.

(You'd wanna test supply to the switch a minute too) All pins with yellow wire should read constant 12v +.

Start circuits,

red-lt blu
red-lt grn
blk-lt blu
tan-lt grn

any one (or more) of those four fail to read 12v + when tested key in "start" position? replace the switch (Provided of course all 5 pin feed by "yellow" wires are hot)

If all four test 12v + key in run position then the switch is good, problem is elsewhere.

Out of adjustment perhaps, but doesn't sound likely as the "run" position is good based on what you stated. Key "feel" like its in the correct spot when in the run position?

 

I gotta figure out where my tester went so will do it when I track down my multimeter.

Yes the key did feel right in the ignition. Yes the run position is right. no slop or not tighter than normal if that is what you are wondering.

 

Yes that is exactly what I meant.