1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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Question CAN THE HUB BE PLACE ON TO FAR UP THE AXLE SHAFT???
No the inner bearing sets/determines the distance, seal too but its the bearing as the hard limit.
Inner bearing outer race will only go into hub so far, can not be set to "deep".
Did you get and install the right bearings?
If you have the correct rotor and the correct bearings there would be no reason the hub/rotor assembly would go on to far.
Perhaps if you posted some pictures of the issue, the problem might become Readily apparent once we see it.
I even went as far as looking on Rockauto at the different rotors available to see if there was a variation, thinking that he might have the wrong rotor. Even with the wrong bearings, I don't think it could get that far off. It's a head-scratcher, that's for sure!
'99 Expy, 5.4L, 4R700, AWD, 153k miles
'94 F150 Supercab, 5.8L, E4OD, 4x4, 194K miles
I will be working on it tomorrow and will put back on the heat shield to see if that gives me more clearance. If that does not solve the problem I will take a pic to show what the heck is going on with this truck. Thanks for the replies though I will post tomorrow. RJ
Well this has been a night mare so far. This truck is very rusty and everything has been a B to get off. Got the rotor off and replaced (DURALAST GOLD), did the ball joints (MOOG), did the u-joints(DURLAST GOLD), New bearings (TIMKENS), New Rear Seal (MOOG). Got everything repacked and put back together. Torque the lock nuts to specs. Manual locker back on. AT THIS POINT I'M THINKING THE TRUCK GODS are going to let me get to the final steps of this job. WELL WHAT WOULD YOU KNOW THE CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET WILL NOT GO BACK ON. IT IS TO CLOSE TO THE ROTOR IT NEEDS ABOUT AN INCH. I can line up the holes and get bolts in(NOT ALL THE WAY IN THOUGH) but the rotor will not move because it is riding on the bracket(wedge in). WHat the FU!@#%%. One thing that I didn't replace was the brake shield and now I'm thinking that quarter inch is the inch I need. WHAT DID I DO WRONG?? DOES IT MATTER IF THE SHIELD IS NOT PUT BACK ON??? DID I PLACE THE HUB ASSEMBLY ON TO FAR AND IF SO HOW FAR BACK IS IT SUPPOSED TO GO???? tHIS THING IS A NIGHTMARE PLEASE HELP!!!!!
You didn't seat the studs down enough.
Why I posted this in one of my replies before ... Look at the gap in the rotor to hub spin it and watch the gap change. Put a rim on and send it home with a impact gun if you have one. it will pull it all up tight and you can then get it all together.
Originally Posted by Bankrupter
Just take note to really seat the studs back down in the new rotor.
Other then this it could be wrong bearings ... Or what Andy said... If its the last one dont admit it :P...
Never argue with an idiot. People reading may not be able to tell the difference...
Well it all went back together. This is what I did. First I took it apart all the way down to the axle shaft. Took the 5 bolts out of the axle shaft part, pulled it out and put back on the heat shield. Started the reassembly. Tightened the 5 bolts to 60 lbs, put on the hub, put in the front bearing and push the bearing in as far as I could by hand. Got the lock nut and put it on just to hold things in place. I then put the caliper backet on to see if it would fit. WHAT WOULD YOU KNOW IT FIT. So I torque that to 150lb. I when went ahead I torqued the locknut to 50lbs to set the bearings, I then back out the lock nut and retorqued to 30lbs. The next thing I did was back out the lock nut 150 degrees while I was rotating the hub. I then placed the lock washer on the key shaft making sure the nipple lined up with the lock nut. I had to move the lock nut clockwise to match up the nipple with the hole, so the rotation was not 150 degrees but now it was 130 degrees. I then put on the second lock nut and torqued to 65 lbs. I then spinned the hub to see if everything was good to go it sounded and look good. All though I did hear a sound like the rotor was hitting the shield so I push and pulled on the shield to try and bend it alittle, it stopped the scrapping noise so I moved on. Put the locker in and put the snap ring around the axle nose. Put the large O ring(snap ring) in, put the cap on, put new brake pad in and put wheel on. The wheel spins nice and free. Got in and started the girl up and pumped the brakes, felt nice and with good response. Got her back up on the jack to see if the wheel had any play. It's tight but the only thing that has me worried now is that the wheel is very hard to rotate. But I do remember it being hard to rotate before I started this project. IS THIS NORMAL????
TOday I do the driver side, hoping for the best. And thanks to all that replied to my post you guys are life saver. I will be doing back brake soon so look out for though posts I know I will need your help again.
It's tight but the only thing that has me worried now is that the wheel is very hard to rotate. But I do remember it being hard to rotate before I started this project. IS THIS NORMAL????
No it's not. You either have a sticking caliper or a collapsed rubber brake line on that side. Both of those items should be replaced in pairs. If you don't you will probably have a pull to the opposite side and you'll be replacing pads on that side far more often.
"If you want to live in a country that manufactures things, you need to buy things that your country manufactures." - Mike Rowe
No as andym pointed out it should not be hard to turn, pads should lightly drag but not prevent the wheel from freely rotating.
Remove the caliper see if the wheel freely rotates, if it does then its the caliper.
Inherent problem with new rotor and then new pads on a wheel that both where worn down.
The caliper had been functioning in position mid way or better in the extended position.
You push it all the way in and now are asking it to function in that position, piston near fully seated.
What I do is exercise the caliper to see if one will be serviceable yet.
With the caliper off and held in your hand (you have a big C clamp old brake pad). Working together with someone sitting in driver seat to work the pedal, have them slowly push the pedal down you stop the pistons (and helper) near the outer most travel with the clamp and flat bar worn pad doesn't matter what long as it works.
Now pedal is down pistons are all the way out, instruct helper let pedal up. You use clamp to push pistons back in all the way.
Repeat process several times (say 6 or 8 should do it) making the pistons move in and out full distance. Pedal clamp pedal clamp pedal clamp.....
(be sure not blow pistons out of caliper doing so)
After doing so more often then not it allows the calipers function normally again in the fresh "range of operation" expected, put there by the new full thickness rotors and new pads just installed. Pistons don't want to work there right off.
If the either one or both of the calipers will not fully "relax" after applying brakes replace it (you can see them relax if you watch and should see it happen). Should grab hard brakes applied and then release allow you spin wheel, pads drag yes but not hold. If not you will burn up your new pads/rotors quick.
[quote=andym;11025146]Don't believe anything that you hear from an Autozone employee. Most of the time their experience comes from reading Haynes manuals and the only thing they've ever done to a vehicle is check the oil.
I agree with you on the AutoZone thing... I used to work there... I got fired for going above and beyond just checking the oil... Their whole 5 bolts deal is stupid... sorry... had to butt in... lol
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