who to trust for ficm repair
#17
#18
#19
The guys over at Circuit Board Medics (www.circuitboardmedics.com) seem to really know their stuff. I had my gauge cluster repaired by them, and talked with one of the techs about the 6.0 for a while. I like that they give an honest opinion about increasing the voltage to the injectors.
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#20
I too had my FICM repaired by Ed. Before sending it to him my voltage would drop into the low 30's on cold mornings. I went with the 2 yr warranty option. Turnaround time was quick, 4 days from the time I sent it to him. Now my voltage never goes below 48 but 99% of the time it is 48.5 or 49.
I think my results are typical of Ed's repairs and he is a sponsor of this site so why go anywhere else.
Thanks Ed keep up the great work and I hope your business continues to prosper!!
I think my results are typical of Ed's repairs and he is a sponsor of this site so why go anywhere else.
Thanks Ed keep up the great work and I hope your business continues to prosper!!
#21
I'm glad to see the support on here, guys, and even more glad to have taken good care of you all!
I don't think it's mentioned in this thread, so I'll go ahead now - we don't believe that the voltage upgrade is a good idea.
My techs and I know precisely how to perform that upgrade - both the 'quick' 'tack on a resistor' fix and the more involved 'change out a myriad of parts to support the higher voltage and then either tack on a resistor or (do things the better way) and actually change the component regulating the output.
I run a component-upgraded 48V (our 'premium service') FICM in my 6.0 and have no plans of changing.
At issue is the difference between how the 48V and higher voltage modules fail and the fact the failure rate is dramatically higher (about three times higher, in fact) than with the stock voltage modules.
Stock voltage units tend to go out gradually in the following progression:
1. Longer crank times. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
2. Longer crank times with poor cold running. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
3. Multiple crank cycles with nearly zero power until warrmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
4. Won't start unless plugged in or the module is heated with a hair dryer. No power until warmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
5. Won't start unless the module is heated with a hair dryer. Bucking and jumping down the road, never will run right, even when fully warmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
6. Won't start at all. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 -yep, that's the next step.
7. Send your module into Ed at FICMrepair.com and he'll set you up.
Compare that with the typical failure of a voltage upgraded unit:
1. Everything is PERFECT. Then one day, while driving down the road with your family in the middle of who-knows-where and who-knows-what-time, the truck just cuts off and won't restart. Hopefully, you were able to coast to a shoulder. Take apart the module and find black soot nearly everywhere and a physically damaged circuit board that will need to be replaced and can no longer be repaired. Quietly weep.
2. Send your module into Ed at FICMrepair.com and he'll replace the board if changing out just one of them is even an option or provide you a complete replacement, taking your dead module in as a core to be sent off to the FICM graveyard.
Good luck to all!
I don't think it's mentioned in this thread, so I'll go ahead now - we don't believe that the voltage upgrade is a good idea.
My techs and I know precisely how to perform that upgrade - both the 'quick' 'tack on a resistor' fix and the more involved 'change out a myriad of parts to support the higher voltage and then either tack on a resistor or (do things the better way) and actually change the component regulating the output.
I run a component-upgraded 48V (our 'premium service') FICM in my 6.0 and have no plans of changing.
At issue is the difference between how the 48V and higher voltage modules fail and the fact the failure rate is dramatically higher (about three times higher, in fact) than with the stock voltage modules.
Stock voltage units tend to go out gradually in the following progression:
1. Longer crank times. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
2. Longer crank times with poor cold running. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
3. Multiple crank cycles with nearly zero power until warrmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
4. Won't start unless plugged in or the module is heated with a hair dryer. No power until warmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
5. Won't start unless the module is heated with a hair dryer. Bucking and jumping down the road, never will run right, even when fully warmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
6. Won't start at all. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 -yep, that's the next step.
7. Send your module into Ed at FICMrepair.com and he'll set you up.
Compare that with the typical failure of a voltage upgraded unit:
1. Everything is PERFECT. Then one day, while driving down the road with your family in the middle of who-knows-where and who-knows-what-time, the truck just cuts off and won't restart. Hopefully, you were able to coast to a shoulder. Take apart the module and find black soot nearly everywhere and a physically damaged circuit board that will need to be replaced and can no longer be repaired. Quietly weep.
2. Send your module into Ed at FICMrepair.com and he'll replace the board if changing out just one of them is even an option or provide you a complete replacement, taking your dead module in as a core to be sent off to the FICM graveyard.
Good luck to all!
#22
I sent mine to ed last wed. Im hoping he got it friday so i can get it back in for this coming weekend. Ive got steelhead to chase!!!!!! Through recieving emails from ed i decided to go with him, seems like a no bs kinda guy, and the last thing we need is a guy that bs's us about a 6.0. Thanks ed!, cant wait to get 'ol blue running again.
#23
#25
#26
Ed repaired mine too. i got the high end deal and worth every penny so far. my truck starts up quick in 35-40* mornings. before i was having to plug it up to start up in 50* weather. i havnt had any 10-20* mornings sence. and well spring is almost here now.
but Ed is a great guy. A+++ on customer service and communiction.
Thanks Ed!!
but Ed is a great guy. A+++ on customer service and communiction.
Thanks Ed!!
#27
Would not send my FICM anywhere else!
Had some injector issues and eventually popped a P0611 FICM code on my 05 KR 6.0 and began scrambling to find a repair place. Was very tempted by a cheap ebay FICM and was going to call Ed to ask about exchanging my core. To my surprise and delight, the area code was the same as MINE! It turns out Ed is located less than 20 minutes from my house. I had the distinct pleasure of actually meeting Ed face to face and dropped my FICM off at 9:00pm on a Friday night! After covering home building methods, farm equipment, 6.0 diesels, and seeing the very 5030 Kubota on which he tinkers (his old handle), I left confident that my FICM was in good hands. Ed had it ready for me the next morning for pick up!! ON A SATURDAY! My FICM voltage went from an irregular range of 48 to a low in the 43s to a solid 48.5-49!
Ed is the man and like my title says, I wouldn't take my FICM ANYWHERE ELSE! Thanks a million Ed!
Ed is the man and like my title says, I wouldn't take my FICM ANYWHERE ELSE! Thanks a million Ed!
#28
I'm glad to see the support on here, guys, and even more glad to have taken good care of you all!
I don't think it's mentioned in this thread, so I'll go ahead now - we don't believe that the voltage upgrade is a good idea.
My techs and I know precisely how to perform that upgrade - both the 'quick' 'tack on a resistor' fix and the more involved 'change out a myriad of parts to support the higher voltage and then either tack on a resistor or (do things the better way) and actually change the component regulating the output.
I run a component-upgraded 48V (our 'premium service') FICM in my 6.0 and have no plans of changing.
At issue is the difference between how the 48V and higher voltage modules fail and the fact the failure rate is dramatically higher (about three times higher, in fact) than with the stock voltage modules.
Stock voltage units tend to go out gradually in the following progression:
1. Longer crank times. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
2. Longer crank times with poor cold running. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
3. Multiple crank cycles with nearly zero power until warrmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
4. Won't start unless plugged in or the module is heated with a hair dryer. No power until warmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
5. Won't start unless the module is heated with a hair dryer. Bucking and jumping down the road, never will run right, even when fully warmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
6. Won't start at all. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 -yep, that's the next step.
7. Send your module into Ed at FICMrepair.com and he'll set you up.
Compare that with the typical failure of a voltage upgraded unit:
1. Everything is PERFECT. Then one day, while driving down the road with your family in the middle of who-knows-where and who-knows-what-time, the truck just cuts off and won't restart. Hopefully, you were able to coast to a shoulder. Take apart the module and find black soot nearly everywhere and a physically damaged circuit board that will need to be replaced and can no longer be repaired. Quietly weep.
2. Send your module into Ed at FICMrepair.com and he'll replace the board if changing out just one of them is even an option or provide you a complete replacement, taking your dead module in as a core to be sent off to the FICM graveyard.
Good luck to all!
I don't think it's mentioned in this thread, so I'll go ahead now - we don't believe that the voltage upgrade is a good idea.
My techs and I know precisely how to perform that upgrade - both the 'quick' 'tack on a resistor' fix and the more involved 'change out a myriad of parts to support the higher voltage and then either tack on a resistor or (do things the better way) and actually change the component regulating the output.
I run a component-upgraded 48V (our 'premium service') FICM in my 6.0 and have no plans of changing.
At issue is the difference between how the 48V and higher voltage modules fail and the fact the failure rate is dramatically higher (about three times higher, in fact) than with the stock voltage modules.
Stock voltage units tend to go out gradually in the following progression:
1. Longer crank times. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
2. Longer crank times with poor cold running. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
3. Multiple crank cycles with nearly zero power until warrmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
4. Won't start unless plugged in or the module is heated with a hair dryer. No power until warmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
5. Won't start unless the module is heated with a hair dryer. Bucking and jumping down the road, never will run right, even when fully warmed up. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 OR CONTINUE.
6. Won't start at all. GO DIRECTLY TO STEP 7 -yep, that's the next step.
7. Send your module into Ed at FICMrepair.com and he'll set you up.
Compare that with the typical failure of a voltage upgraded unit:
1. Everything is PERFECT. Then one day, while driving down the road with your family in the middle of who-knows-where and who-knows-what-time, the truck just cuts off and won't restart. Hopefully, you were able to coast to a shoulder. Take apart the module and find black soot nearly everywhere and a physically damaged circuit board that will need to be replaced and can no longer be repaired. Quietly weep.
2. Send your module into Ed at FICMrepair.com and he'll replace the board if changing out just one of them is even an option or provide you a complete replacement, taking your dead module in as a core to be sent off to the FICM graveyard.
Good luck to all!
#29
#30
FICM installed today, fired up on first try. idle rough, took it around the block medium power, no turbo kick with WOT 10-30 mph, showing code P0263.
please advise