The door locks need it, the others shouldn't.

 

So the others I can just use the ones with the 30,85,86,and 87 terminals? And how many am I using on the door locks, 1 or 2? I know you had said it was easier with 2 but if I only need 1 then I'd rather do it that way.

 

 

Ok so I've got all my supplies, got the remote start in the mail today, plugged everything in and got everything organized. I know where all the wires need to go except for the heavy gauge wires that hook up to the ignition. Are the two relays that go in the ignition going to be linked in any way like the door locks?

Also, that auxiliary harness that has the wait-to-start wire in it...if I'm not wiring up any accessories right now, and I'm using the units built-in timer for my wait-to-start, can I just leave this entire plug out and save it for a time that I want to use auxiliaries?

 

Aux harness - sure, whatever.

relays in ignition area only use terminal 87, NOT 87a.

Your big question is what wires do you have in ignition? Since it's diesel there are likely duplicates not mentioned in wiring chart. That determines the relay setup.

And are you using this as an alarm or just RS? Does it have remotes? Using the GPS/smartphone setup?

 

I'll try and get a picture of the ignition harness today and see if you can tell what's going on in there.

I'm going to use the alarm, but I'm not wiring up the siren. Basically, if it gets set off, it will only honk the horn and nothing else. I'm going to use the GPS SmartStart later on, but I don't really have the extra $70 to drop a service plan, plus all that BS where DEI makes you go to a retailer to get it installed and activated. So for now I'm just going to be using the remote start with the regular remote and alarm without the annoying siren.

The reason I don't like the siren is because they're so freakin obnoxious. I realize that's the point, but everyone I've ever known that has one will get set off if somebody just looks at your car a certain way. So if that happens I'd rather it just be the horn and not that stupid siren. Really though, when I get the SmartStart set up, I'd actually rather not have anything to sound off when the alarm goes off, because it will notify me by my phone.

But if I wire the horn to the remote start, will it honk when I hit the lock button twice, or honk twice when a door is ajar like my factory remot does now? If not then I may not even wire it in, because my neighbor's house is literally 10ft from where I park my truck in my driveway, so knowing how temperamental these things are, I'd hate for it to get set off in the middle of the night. Plus, like I said earlier, the 2 way remote and the SmartStart will both let me know if my doors locked regardless of the horn, so I may just not worry about that at all.

I also noticed Python sells a little module that will roll my windows up/down with the system arms/disarms. Is there a way to do the windows up when the system arms? I don't really care about windows down...but like yesterday I got out of my truck and went into class and absent mindedly left my windows down. It would be nice to be able to have them roll up when I hit the lock button, and not have to buy that stupid module. Also, if I can do both, windows up on arm would probably be year-round, but windows down on disarm would probably be seasonal, as I ALWAYS roll my windows down in the summer time (I don't even know if the A/C works in my truck cause it's never been used!). And on a seasonal note, in the summer time it would also be nice to have them roll up and stop with the windows cracked in the summer time. But if all this is really complicated, then we'll just worry about getting the basics of the remote start/alarm wired up and then worry about this stuff.

Last thing for now, and kinda a side note...I noticed you said in a previous post that unless my truck is a manual, you wouldn't worry about the neutral safety wire. Does that mean that this remote start can be used on a manual and not have to worry about trying to remote start it after forgetting to put the car in neutral when it's parked? Cause I've heard of all kinda of horror stories where guys put remote starts in there manuals and they left it in gear instead of neutral when they parked it and then tried to use the remote start and it actually turned over and would lunge forward and either hit another car or some other obstacle in the parking lot or garage or whatever. The reason I ask is because my truck is actually for sale, so if it ever does sell (not looking too promising right now), the remote start is coming out and I'm planning on getting a 6-speed manual Z4 and putting the remote start in it. Also, on the "rolling the windows up and down" note...it would be nice to be able to take that same idea and wire it into the soft top. The Z4's I'm looking at have a power soft top that works just like power windows, so it would be especially awesome to be able to have the windows and top roll up/down when the system is armed/disarmed. Again, HOW to do it is not an issue right now cause this is IF I can ever get my truck sold. I just was curious if it could be done without purchasing the module. Which the module isn't expensive, but it would be stupid to buy when I could make something I already own do the exact same thing. So yes's and no's is all I'm looking for here.

And thanks again for all your help dude, you've been a huge life-saver. I may could have went and paid BestBuy their $200 to get everything installed and possibly come out better off after all the extra stuff I've had to buy and the time/aggravation spent on the setup and install, but it's definitely well worth it all once you've done it and have the knowledge base to do all this stuff yourself and help other people out like you're doing.

 

If you're gonna sell this thing - seriously - then either don't install the RS or plan on buying another. It will not be worth the trouble to transfer, trust me here. You can buy a quality RS for under $60.

as for windows & top, all things are possible with relays in the right order. Take a look at that link I posted, there are diagrams for windows up/down. Convertible tops are the same.

 

Well I actually got a call from a friend of mine today that has wanted to buy my truck for a while now but he's just got to get rid of his F150...anyways, he said he just lowered the price of his truck and hopefully is gonna get it sold within a week, and if he does he's without a doubt buying my truck. The problem is (if you've ever sold a vehicle then you know this is true), I've been told that probably 50+ times since the truck's been for sale, yet so far I'm still the owner. On a less serious note, if I go through the trouble of installing the remote start, the truck will most definitely sell probably within the hour that I get finished, and if I don't install it this weekend then I may as well forget this deal. Now whichever I decide to do, we'll see how true that statement is after the next week or 2 goes by.

And so aside from the window and top stuff, do you know if the neutral safety wire keeps this unit from trying to turn over if the car is in gear?

 

congrats. I think.

NSW - yes, but no auto trans will start in gear anyway. That I know of.

 

Well aside from that, any auto trans car that I know of won't let you pull the key out until it's in park.

 

Sorry I forgot all about getting the picture of the ignition harness, but here it is. Can you tell which ones I'll have to rig my relays to? From the chart, it looks like only the white/yellow and the red/black wires will be used.

 

I can't tell anything from here. Do this - pull the plug out & match all the wires to what's in the wiring chart - are there any duplicates? Anything not mentioned?

Mine, for instance, had 2 acc's of same color, 3 IGN's (two colors total) & 2 B+ same color, wire chart only mentioned 1 of each.

 

The only one that can't be seen in the picture is the Dark Green Starter wire and it's on top behind that gray circular piece of plastic.

(2) 12V Constant -- Yellow down bottom and Lt Green/Purple up top
Starter -- Dark Green behind everything
Ignition 1 -- White/Yellow up top
Ignition 2 -- Red/Black in the middle
Accessory/Heater Blower 1 -- Gray/Yellow at the very top
Accessory/Heater Blower 2 -- Dark Blue/Light Green right above the Yellow

That accounts for 7 of the 8 wires in the harness. The only one left over is the Blue/Orange below the White/Yellow. I don't know what that is.

Does this help or do I need to do anything else? I would pull the plug out but I have no idea how to do that. It's got 2 allen screws holding it in there somehow.

 

OK, so match the hi-amp outs from the RS to that plug, any wires that don't have a matching hi-amp out will need a relay & a trigger from the RS.

Starter wire gets cut & spliced.

B+ shouldn't be needed if you're using an outboard fuseblock.

 

That addt'l wire, you really should test & see what it does (may be ground). I wouldn't wire it for now but if there are problems later that'd be a good place to start.

Oh, and the black plastic molex connector should separate from the white base, somehow.