What do I need to build a box crossover tube? I work at a john deere dealership so I have access to fittings and hoses I just don't know what size I need for hose, length and fitting sizes

 

Read this thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-any-pics.html
It contains info that should help.

 

Here's another that was linked in the first one.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11009214

 

How beneficial is the HPX?

 

It balances the ICP pressure between the heads which smooths out idle and overall provides for a more equal atomization amongst the injectors.

 

As mentioned in one of Mueckster's links, it cost about $40 to build. Well, for $50 - 60 you can buy a stainless steel tubing hard line HPX. I love saving money probably more than the next guy, but it's not worth the time and hassle for me to build one for a $10-20 difference.

Is the HP/X worth doing? Yes. My trucks all run smoother with it.

Here are graphs taken from Strictly Diesel's website, and I've seen numerous others post similar "Before and After" photos over the years. First one is BEFORE, second one is AFTER.

 

I like the SS hard line for its "maintenance free" qualities. The only thing that may ever need replacing is the o-rings on the fittings at the heads.

 

This is great info my only question is what size threads are the the ones that screw into the block? Are they 3/8 npt?

 

#5 or #6 o ring boss. Can't remember which. The hpop is one size and the oil rail plugs are the other. I got a set of o ring boss to jic adapters I use when monitoring icp pressure. That would probably be the easiest way to adapt to a common hose that swivels on both sides. I think clays comes with some swaglok fittings and it works ok. They are just not as forgiving as the jic. I have a cross over I got from clay. Should I install it? A few people I talked to said it doesn't do much if you have the check valves pulled out of the hpop lines. That chart shows it must make a difference, but does it?

 

As a side note, it takes about 50 miles of driving before you notice. On "HERS," I installed one around 2001. It had very little mods done to at the time, just a more-open intake (K&N conical filter) and a Walker BTM muffler. I was driving it on a long trip the day after installation, and about 30 minutes into the drive the engine got much quieter and smoother in the pedal...almost in a single instant. It was like the final air bubble was worked out or something. I turned to my wife and said, "Hey, listen to that!!! Do you notice the difference?" She too realized it was running a lot quieter.

And THAT was the beginning of PMS for me. To hear the engine quiet down that quick, run that much smoother, and have a more even power band on acceleration...I WANTED MORE!!! The rest is history (just check my bank account).

 

The heads and pump are both threaded for SAE O-ring boss ("ORB") fittings. The heads are a -5 ("dash five") ORB, and the 'actual' o-ring size is a -905 ("dash nine-oh-five"). The pump uses a -6 ORB, and the o-ring size is a -906.

 

Great info Robin!

I updated my cut away photo library. Someday I'll need to know what size these things are and I'll never remember where I wrote it down. This way I can always look at pictures.

 

That is one sweet looking engine Greg

 

Thanks but that's not my engine. Those are photos of a cut away engine that someone posted here a couple of years ago. I have about 4 or 6 other views. I can e-mail them to you if you would like. I though they would be great to label stuff and use for discussion purposes. I find the visuals useful because I really don't get down deep into my engine very often. Most times it's on the road doing truck stuff so it really needs very little maintenance as a percentage of the miles driven.

 

I hear ya. I wish my engine looked that clean tho. I'll PM you my email address now.