1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Bought bed, have questions

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Old 11-06-2011, 05:55 PM
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Bought bed, have questions

So I tracked down a 6ft bed for my truck. The metal floor was split and rusted so it got removed along with the rotted wood. Anyone have any experience with a good sturdy floor? I have thought about doing diamond plate and welding it in then having the liner sprayed.
Also, a bunch of the studs that the fenders bolt to on the bed broke off, any idea where I can get new ones? Thanks!
 
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:59 PM
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A few to try.

lmctruck.com

dennis-carpenter.com

macsautoparts.com

horkeyswoodandparts.com

c2cfabrication.com

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:51 PM
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I see some repro floors on a coulple of those sites but no studs? Problem now im finding now is that the bed is 49 inches wide on the inside and most of this metal sheeting stuff like diamond plate is sold in a 4x8 or 4x10 sheet. I would like to not have a seam if I can avoid it.
 
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Steve
A few to try.

lmctruck.com

dennis-carpenter.com

macsautoparts.com

horkeyswoodandparts.com

c2cfabrication.com

Hope this helps.
thanks for the links
 
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:15 AM
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My buddy wanted aluminum diamond plate for the floor of his bed. He went to a metal supply shop with the dimensions and they cut it spot on. It looks great and has no seams. Good luck, Jag
 
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:24 PM
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Ah custom cut piece it is then! Thanks! Still having trouble finding studs though, I would like to get one as close to original as possible.
 
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:40 PM
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Turns out MACs has a couple different sets of fender bolts. I just dont know how to look for stuff.
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 07:23 AM
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I have that problem too. Along with there being catalogs everywhere and whiling away hours looking at them.
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 1949 F6
So I tracked down a 6ft bed for my truck. The metal floor was split and rusted so it got removed along with the rotted wood. Anyone have any experience with a good sturdy floor? I have thought about doing diamond plate and welding it in then having the liner sprayed.
Also, a bunch of the studs that the fenders bolt to on the bed broke off, any idea where I can get new ones? Thanks!
Since this old thread is alive again I'll throw in my 2c. Go wood. I built a flatbed trailer with a diamond plate bed steel and hated it, heavy and noisy. My next trailer I bought and it had pressure treated decking. I like it. When I replace the bed on my '56 I'll go back as original with wood.
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:38 AM
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Awhile back I stumbled upon a style of bolt called an "elevator bolt". This style bolt has a large flat head which makes it perfect for use with sheetmetal as it distributes the load over a wide area.
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:43 AM
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How do you remove the old fender bolts? I thought that they would just pop out with a generous tap. However, they are in there quite tight. Does it take some heat to get them out? Thanks, Steve
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:55 AM
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Most people just leave them in place. They are pressed in and after 50+ years, they don't want to come out without much force. Is it really necessary to go to that much trouble and risk warping the bed sides? You be the judge. Good luck, Jag
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:57 AM
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Northern Classics has the fender bolts. They look a lot like elevator bolts. Most are spot welded in, so if some broke off, you'll probably need to use a hammer and chisel to break the spot weld. If you're worried about denting up the bed side, you can use a grinder to carefully grind the head off, then punch whatever is left off with a hammer and punch.

If you're not too worried about the original look, you can just use some carraige bolts to replace the broken ones.

Dan
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 01:09 PM
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Thanks. I purchased the fender bolts, but struggled to get even one out. I thought I would ask before getting upset and messing up my bed sides. I guess I will try to grind off the one that is broken. I will then attempt to chase the threads on the other bolts and hope that they work. I never would have thought that they would have been spot welded on. I thought that if I heated them with a bit of MAPP gas, that they would come loose when hot. I may still try it. Either way the paint will be chewed up. Steve
 
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Old 11-21-2011, 01:49 PM
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Here is a great link that discusses it in detail with pictures: Ford F1 Rear Fender Replacement - Classic Trucks Magazine

Steve
 


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