Has anyone ever had their ignition switch go bad? If so, how did you finally pinpoint that is was the switch? Is there any way to test the switch while on the truck?

 

I had one go bad on my 70. One morning, the truck wouldn't turn over. I checked the solenoid first and it was fine. I then checked power at the switch and it was bad.

 

I had an issue with my radio cutting out, and it seemed to happen when something shimmied the truck (like a speed bump). It wouldn't have power for a while, then would randomly come back on. I noticed that when the radio was out, so were the windshield wipers, and anything else on the hot-in-ACC circuit. This pointed to the ignititon switch, since I could deduce that the issue was upstream. Once I suspected the ignition switch, I found that shaking the key would bring power back to the accessory loads. Bingo.

What is the specific issue in your case? The best way to test the ignition switch, or any switch, is a continuity check. Or, you can see where power drops off as Marc described above.

 

When mine went out it would only power the ignition when I was cranking it over as soon as it fired and I let go of the key it would die.

 

I knew mine was bad when I went to leave the gas station. I turned the key and the plastic portion fell out from under the dash in several pieces. Had to hot wire it home.

 

And I had one that was just the opposite. Would only start when you jiggled the key just right while cranking.... go figure!

.

 

so where can you buy the ignition? i found one at the parts store but it does not include the whole thing just the back side of it.

 

You can reuse the key part of it if it turns good. I have bought it all new by buying both parts and putting them together. But no need to if the key part is good.

 

I just replaced mine a week ago. My truck would start with key cranked then shut off with key back to straight up unless I wiggled key just right after it fired. I had weird smell in cab sometimes too almost like I thought burning antifreeze? It turned out it was the pigtail ignition connection slowly getting hot and melting. Had to find new pigtail harness and wrecker wasn't an option. Guys on here helped me out and I found a part # through Rock Auto. My parts stores couldn't find anything until i retried them with my part # and I tracked one down with a 2 day wait time. The pin/rivets on back of ignition were loose, causing a bad connection and made everything bad.

 

Find a paper clip to use as a tool and follow these instructions. Just be careful with the chrome ring holding the sw to the dash.

 

Awesome thanks for the info on how to change them out. Found one on blue oval ford parts for $6. Shipping was a hit high but not bad.

 

Just FYI. One common cause for failure, is when someone carries a pile of keys on their key ring. The weight pulling down and swinging wears them out.

 

I'm having trouble with the truck just shutting off while driving only a few hundred feet. Just figured it might be the ignition switch since I've had one do that before (not a ford). $18 for a new one and my old one fell apart upon removal so I thought I had the problem licked.

The swap was easy but within a few hundred feet; same thing, the truck just quits, or almost quits if I'm quick on the gas.

Back to square one. I'll have another thread started for that problem so I'll continue the discussion there. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tting-out.html

 

double check all the wires running into the back of the switch, I've had them fall out and create problems,

 

Not yet. I thought i did but after pulling the old one out and testing it with my fluke meter it was just fine. Oh well now i have a spare. The key lock portion was bad/worn out, after 23+ years of use.