engine ticks like a lifter tick but it comes and goes..most people ive talked to said they have solid lifters? if thats the case what else would it be? it runs ****ty when it does it so it must be valve train or fuel rail issue


ive tried thicker oil, sea foam, trans fluid, higher octaine gas didnt make a difference

 

Does it tick the most when it is hot or cold?

 

Did this "tic" come about after some event???
Does the engine have a lot of deposits showing under the valve cover????
Has the engine had any other problems, like fueling or oiling issues.
How was the Seafoam ingested, though a vacuum line, in the gas tank, in the crankcase????
I agree, It kinda sounds like a valve problem, with the engine running rough when the intermittent tic noise is present.

If it's a valve stem or lifter deposit problem, thicker oil isn't likely to make a difference, but a thinner oil, like an SN grade 5W-20, which your engine is speced to be able to use, that has a good detergent ad pack, or something in the thicker oil if it's still in there, that'll get in tight places & get after deposits, but still do a good lube job, might make a difference.
Just don't get crazy pouring in aftermarket treatments such that you create other problems, especially if the engine has a heavy deposit load, in which case you'd want to go after dissolving them slowly like they were formed, so they don't cause other mischief.

I've used Marvel Oil for a short period a couple of times just before an oil change, on my old squeeky clean inside 78 Merc Zypher 3.3L I6 engine, to tidy up some apparent deposits of some sort, probably light gum or varnish that were causing what sounded like a stuck lifter, or valve that caused intermittent noise & rough running, that sounded just as you describe.

I was close to oil & filter change time, so I began with 1/2 qt to top up the sump, it got better right away, so I later removed some oil & added the other 1/2 qt of Marvel Oil about 500 miles before the scheduled oil & filter change. The problem never returned & I finally let the old girl go back in 08 & it was still running just fine.

Some more thoughts for pondering, let us know what you find.

 

this sounds like the infamous 2.9L tick to me.. mine does this alot.. sometimes it will tick horrible and run like crap/have no power, and sometimes it will be nice and quiet and run good...it does this hot or cold.. mostly when it is hot though.. and it always ticks above 2,000 RPM, whether hot or cold.

i've tried different oil brands/types..seems to do best with Chevron DELO 15w-40..(yes..I use Diesel oil). tried mobile 1 full synthetic.... the 2.9L HATED it.. ticked constantly..

i've heard that these engines have defective/badly designed cam bearings, causing the engine to lose some oil pressure, starving the lifters of oil, causing the tick...i heard Ford fixed this problem in 1989 (or was that the head cracking problem? i don't remember). I have a 1990 (from a 1990 Bronco II) 2.9L in my 88 ranger and it has the same ticking problem as the original engine from 1988..the original engine had a worn camshaft..had NO power, shaked/missed horribly, that is why I replaced it with the engine from the B-II..
i'm not dissing the 2.9L in any way.. they do last a long time and can take a beating..i hope to some day replace my 2.9L with a 5.0HO.. or a 4bt Cummins.. or heck.. even a 4.0L...

 

Mine ticks after cruising at highway speeds and idling for a bit at say a stoplight. But I have never noticed ticking while driving under power.

I use Rotella 15W40.

Josh

 

mebe2K..my 1990 had the same symptoms as yours. I got lucky and found a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0 and a junk body. Took out the 2.9 with the cracked heads and installed the 4.0.
Oil pressure is at a steady 40 pounds and more power. Glad I did the swap. My 2.9 was what I called a 10 mile engine. It would run decent for 10 miles then the oil pressure would drop, tick loudly, and run like crap.

 

Anyone ever thought of installing solid lifters?

Josh

 

19704X4F250: how hard was the wiring for the 4.0L? i've heard that the 4.0L is almost a direct bolt-in replacement for the 2.9L.. other than the wiring, and a few other odds and ends..from what i've looked at the 5.0L would be almost plug and play, from a wiring standpoint.. the only thing i'm really worried about with a 5.0L swap is all of the modifications that i need to make to the truck to shoehorn that beast in..

 

I just wish my 2.9 had slightly more power... It's Definately a dog, but I love the 23 mpg. 4.0 is lucky to get 17 right?

Anyone heard of installing earlier Cologne solid lifters, from a 2.8 or something else? The 2.9 already has adjustable rockers.

Josh

 

from wikipedia : "Additionally, oiling problems were common, and added to the poor reputation of the North American 2.9. Although these problems mainly affected poorly maintained or high mileage engines, it occasionally affected low-mileage engines with proper maintenance as well. The symptom of these problems is serious valve train noise. This is due to a number of design faults. Valve train oil pressure was entirely dependent upon a supply fed through the two center cam bearings. Even slight bearing wear could cause complete loss of oil pressure to the hydraulic valve lifters, rocker shaft, and rockers. Excessive internal "bleeding" through the half-moon camshaft thrust plate also contributed to this, though this can possibly be remedied by reinstalling the thrust plate in an upside-down position."
google 2.9L v6..this explains why 2.9's "tick". I wonder if the 2.9's in the Merkur scorpio cars have this problem? last time i was at the junk yard i saw a couple of them.. made me go "hmm..."

 

That overhead cam 2.9 looks sick!

Josh

 

hell yeah it does.. would love to stuff one of those in my '88..from what it says, the block is almost the same.. wonder if it would drop in/bolt up to a ranger? the euros always get the good stuff..

 

mebe2K....The 4.0 would be a bolt in, in your 88, no fabrication. The bell housing pattern is the same as are the motor mounts. You would need the engine compartment wiring harness from a 90-92 Ranger with a manual trans. You can use a 4.0 from an Exploder but the wiring harness is different. Do not use a SOHC 4.0, it is a different animal. I was a little leery about trying the swap but I got most of my info from here The Ranger Station - Technical Library to help me thru the process.
They even have info on 5.0 swaps and help with wiring harness swaps.

 

The 2.9 in my 87 Bronco II only tics on the occasional cold morning start, hot does not bother it.
It does use a little oil, and will give a occasional puff pulling away from a stop light.
I also had a 2.9 in a 89 2wd Ranger that ran very strong and got great MPG, however I did have to have the heads replaced due to cracks.
If I was to ever replace the 2.9 in the B2 it would be with a 4.0.

 

Noticing your sig, you still have the 84 2.8? Does it have the solid lifters? How is the oil pressure with those miles?

Josh