Hey guys, need some input. Was pulling the travel trailer last week when I noticed oil on the front and sides of the trailer. Pulled over to find oil covering the underside of the truck and was approx. 2 qts low on engine oil. Added 2 qts. and continued on my road trip, checking the oil and adding as needed every 100 miles or so. Made it home and parked the truck.

Wiped everything down and tried locating the source of the leak. This sucker is elusive and leaking quickly. Used lighting and my extendable mirror but it appears to be coming from around or behind the turbocharger. I was able to get the camera close for a better look (taken from my creeper, under the driver's side, back / top of motor):

Video: 051.mp4 video by rcknrbn - Photobucket
(I back the camera out toward the end of this short video to give a better idea of where I was looking at)

Still pics:
038.jpg picture by rcknrbn - Photobucket
040.jpg picture by rcknrbn - Photobucket
042.jpg picture by rcknrbn - Photobucket

Also, I've done some research and found this post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-oil-leak.html (thanks BISMIC, awesome info).

However, I'm still at a loss as to where to start. CAC tubes, IAC sensors? I love working on vehicles but I'm lost. It appears I need to pull the turbocharger for a better look (?). Input is appreciated!

Mark

 

Looks like the ICP sensor needs replacing or came loose.

 

• Turbo oil supply line
• Turbo drain tube
• ICP senser

It appears the oil leak is coming from the engine valley so start inspecting these locations.

 

You can change the ICP sensor without pulling the turbo. Change the harness also. You can access it from under the truck or from on top.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7693493

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...with-6-0l.html

Tech Folder:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html

As Troy said, it is possible that the turbo drain is leaking, but it is less likely than the ICP IMO.

 

IAC

CAC

ICP

Man, I gotta find an F250 dictionary!

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/821641-acronyms.html

 

iac idle air controll you dont have one thats on gas enignes
cac charge air cooler. big thing in front of radiator used to cool charge air

 

Still trying to identify the elusive oil leak. This isn't really a progress report but I'm coming up with more questions than answers. I might as well be performing a space walk.

Tried to remove heat shield this evening. Got the easy 10mm bolt and the slightly more difficult 13mm bolt removed. Still have a 10mm bolt just out of arm's length that I'm trying to figure out.

I've disassembled some items from the top of the engine to gain access to the ICP sensor. Here area a couple of still photos and short video:

084.jpg picture by rcknrbn - Photobucket

083.jpg picture by rcknrbn - Photobucket

073.mp4 video by rcknrbn - Photobucket


What is located just behind the ICP sensor that the wiring harness plugs into (the rectangular shaped object with the snake skin looking heat shield). This seems to be the primary source of my oil leak. As shown in the earlier video, after about 10 minutes of running and the truck gets warmed up is when the leak begins and it leaks quickly. Oil is saturated in it and is all over the heat shield material.

Also, other threads mention removing the ICP sensor using a 1 11/16" socket. How on earth does a socket slide over it with the wiring plug in the way? Based on what I'm looking at, the ICP doesn't appear to be leaking but I could be wrong.

Appreciate the advice, I'm slowly learning how a diesel is put together.

 

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - BLADE35's Album: 6.0 sensor pics - Picture

I stole this picture from Benny's profile. It's a great pic of the ICP and IPR valve on your truck. I think you may have them backwards? The "snake skin" is on the ICP sensor which is prone to leaking...

 

Thats the IPR thats behild the ICP sensor. But the thing in the snake skin boot IS the ICP sensor.

P.S. nice post "NewToDiesels", great link!

 

I think you actually are looking at the ICP. It has a heat shield cover over the harness. The IPR is before it.

That wiring plug your talking about definitely sounds like you're talking about the IPR.

I bought the specialty ICP socket from Snap-on. I think I spent $40 and I feel it was worth it.

I didn't have to touch the heat shield to do mine. I removed the airfilter back to the piece before the turbo. I removed the driver side battery. I drained some of the coolant so I could reposition the degas bottle. I removed the FICM and the FICM bracket. I undid the ground from the last bolt on the intake manifold. I undid the harness from the IPR. I undid the harness off 3 of the glowplugs. I slid back the heat shield off the ICP. I unclipped the harness from the ICP. I used the specialty socket with a swivel and an extension to remove the ICP. I replaced it and redid the pigtail.

(The airfilter and battery were done for what I thought was ease of access. You might not need to, but if I had to do it again I think I'd stick with that way. YMMV)

Install was the reverse.

 

Thanks guys, I did have them backwards. Makes more sense now. I take it that the ICP sensor shield will slide forward up the wiring harness to allow access to the harness plug. I'll tackle that tonight.

Great info guys. Piolet - I pretty much followed your train of thought last night other than I was trying to remove the heat shield from the underside. I removed all of the air intake housing/filter, FICM and bracket. I like the idea of further removing the harnesses off the glowplugs and purchasing the specialty tool.

I'll keep y'all posted and thanks for the input.

 

Wanted to provide a quick update. Finally took a few hours to tackle the project last weekend. Got the ICP sensor and plug harness (new, OEM) off Ebay for about $110 shipped (local dealer wanted $260).

Since I've got big arms (and recent neck surgery), going in from the underside using a creeper was out of the question. Of the 3 bolts holding the heatshield in place, the upper most bolt was out of reach, even with socket extensions. Plus, with 35" tires, everything was a tad out of reach (part of my game plan was to deflate/remove tires, etc). Decided to have a go from the top.

Someone mentioned using an old movers blanket to lay across the engine. That may have been the best advice! That padded blanket was my new best friend for a few hours.

To summarize (from memory):
- moved dega jug (why is it called that?) over and to the right
- removed most of the air intake plastic/rubber box (who designed this thing?)
- removed FICM (for those of you like me, that is the computer box)and bracket
- removed glowplug harness for 3 of the 4 glowplugs to give me better access
- removed that one rear bolt that has the ground wire attached (it will eat into your arms if you don't)

The ICP socket from Snap-On was on national backorder and wouldn't be available for 2 weeks. In retrospect, cutting the deep well socket from Sears was probably the most physical part of the job. Between my Dremel tool cut off wheels, angle grinder, bench grinder, etc., had to finally settle on using a hacksaw with new blades and patience.

As far as tools go, the long flexible mirror and good light source (I used a super bright LED torch light) were invaluable.

Had to hammer the heat shield back a bit to get the modified socket in place over the ICP sensor. The socket was a 1/2" drive (couldn't find 3/8" anywhere) and it fit surprisingly well given the cramped space. Replaced the pigtail wiring plug with the crimp connectors and heat shrink wrap that were provided. Didn't solder them, was able to get a really good crimped connection. Took the oil saturated heat shield and soaked it in solvent and dried it well for reuse.

Reassembled all and fired her up (fired right up). No codes. Of course, I didn't have when this project started. I merely had a bad oil leak from the ICP sensor. Was initially worried because there was some oil coming from the bell housing of the trans/torque converter area. I removed the front facing rubber access plug and really flushed it out with degreaser and pressure washed the underside. Turns out, there was a lot of residual oil from the original leak hiding out. Took a few days for the old oil to make it's way down and out but I'm convinced it is dry now. Was able to snake the flex mirror up and viewed the new ICP sensor with the motor running. Bone dry!

Without the input from you guys, the stealership would have been a few hundred dollars richer.