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Old 11-05-2011, 01:21 AM
warnecke13 warnecke13 is offline
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Exclamation newbe fuel tank selector valve question

i have a 1988 f250 7.3 idi with dual fuel tanks and ive noticed fuel driping from my fuel tank selector valve along the frame twards the front of the front tank, and before i do anything i want to make sure this is a job i can handle before diving in and not being able to get the truck started again after attempting to fix it.

my main question is if i go tearing this all apart am i going to have to bleed the fuel system after putting it back together? ive never blead the fuel system before so therefore i do not know how. if anyone can give me a clue here that would be much appreciated.

i really need my truck up and running in the next couple weeks as the temp drops so please help!!!!

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...questid=614617

^^^^also i found this part on autozone and found where they stock it around me. would it work?? or is this the wrong part?
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:54 AM
farmert farmert is offline
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The fuel systems on these old trucks are self bleeding as they come from the factory. Unless some one has hacked it, you should be all right.
Where are the leaks coming from? I have never had the valve leak, only quit switching. The fuel line connectors have o-rings inside them which can be replaced.
The valve you linked to says for carburated vehicles, but it still might work with some wiring mods.
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Old 11-05-2011, 09:06 AM
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if you find the housing is cracked rather than just a fuel line and need to replace it,im pretty sure you would want part #FSV2 which is motor driven.not #FSV1 that you linked to fyi.check the box to see if the pigtail comes with it.if not,you need part #213 as well,while your there.
im with farmert of course by checking into the leak first,replace the part if needed after.
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Old 11-05-2011, 09:41 AM
warnecke13 warnecke13 is offline
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Should i use hose.clamps to hold as much fuel in the lines.as i can? And i think it might be the o rings but i cannot tell.untill i take the fuel lines off.
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Old 11-05-2011, 09:51 AM
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yeah,anything to help avoid at least some mess.but its just a messy job lol.
before you begin fully warm up the engine.this way when you go to restart it,at least your not fighting a cold engine with the air in the line at the same time.once she does start sucking fuel again,you'll know she'll fire on it easier.unless you find you need to run out for a valve,then it won't matter cus by the time you replace and wire it in,she'd be cold again anyway.if both tanks don't work and you don't plan on fixing one of the tanks,but discover the valve is bad,don't mess with replacing it,but rather just bypass it with some hose instead.of course this is good for when $ is limited too.she'll run as good as always just only one tank.replace the valve latter when its warmer and or have more $. whatever works best for ya.in which case,you'd want to block off both lines to keep fuel in/crap out from the tank bypassed.
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:59 PM
tecgod13 tecgod13 is offline
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I'm not sure where you'd put the hose clamps. There should be plastic (nylon) fuel lines running to the valve from both the tanks and the engine. It transitions to metal a little further down the frame rail closer to the engine.

Its quite possible one of the plastic fittings that snaps onto the valve has cracked. You can by replacements (possibly in kit form) from parts stores.

I'll third the notion to clean up the area, and find exactly where its leaking from first.
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Old 11-06-2011, 12:13 AM
warnecke13 warnecke13 is offline
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So i just wanted to conferm that as long as i warm my truck up before i disconnect the valve i shouldent need to bleed the system? Just wanted to clear this up. Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:20 AM
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the fuel will drain back if you need to brake the seal from the engine to the valve.not much you can do about that.but at least having a warm engine,she won't need to struggle lighting the fuel as soon as she gets a taste.see what im saying.
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:20 AM
 
 
 
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