Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Small Chassis Trucks > Ranger & B-Series
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series modelsSPONSORED BY:

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 10-31-2011, 07:55 PM
wanta79's Avatar
wanta79 wanta79 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern MD
Posts: 60
wanta79 is starting off with a positive reputation.
No heat!

My son just bought a 94 ranger with 140k miles. It runs ok but he has no heat in the cab. Checking the coolant tonight and found it to look like chocolate milk! So a flush is definitely in order but that still doesn't explain the no heat issue. Both of the heater hoses going to the firewall are not warm at all and feel like they are empty?? What causes these hoses not to get hot? Also the t-stat was just changed.

Thanks!
Mark
__________________
1979 F-250 4X4 SuperCab
Ranger XLT Lariat Trailer Special
460-C6 / NP205
http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/The%20Beast/
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-31-2011, 09:08 PM
Furyus1's Avatar
Furyus1 Furyus1 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Southern Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,819
Furyus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputation
Almost sounds to me like the radiator is plugged up and you're not getting any flow... What does your temp gauge say after it's warmed up?
__________________
-Terry.
2004 Ranger XLT SC 4x4, 4.0L-SOHC, M5OD-R1HD, 4.10LS, Payload Pkg2, Towing Pkg.
1977 F150 Ranger 4x4, 414cid (6.8L) w/ '72 2V Cleveland heads, C6 Auto.
"
You obviously don't comprehend the level of insane I operate at." - The 4th Doctor
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-31-2011, 10:47 PM
speace91 speace91 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Toledo
Posts: 14
speace91 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I'm having the same problem, except I get heat about half the time. I flushed the fluid and it didnt help anything. My Temp gauge reads normal like it should.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-31-2011, 11:19 PM
michigan66's Avatar
michigan66 michigan66 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Saginaw, MI
Posts: 1,530
michigan66 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Wanta, try giving the cooling system a good flushing. It sounds like the entire system is plugged up.
__________________
2008 XLT, 2.3 DOHC, 5R44e Automatic, 7.5" axle, 4.10 gears, 50 K miles
Motorcraft Blend in Engine, PS, PB, A/C, 225/70 x 15 Continental ContiTrac RWL tires,
extended cab, 6' bed, Access tonneau cover.

Previous vehicle: 1991 XLT, 2.3 SOHC (Lima), M5OD, 7.5 axle 3.45 gears. Donated to a charity.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-01-2011, 05:55 AM
powersmoked's Avatar
powersmoked powersmoked is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,692
powersmoked is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
do a good flush as stated. Trucks with AC have a heater control valve. this valve uses a vacuum and shuts off flow at the heater hoses to the heater core. Check that it is working. You might want to swap in new heater hoses. they can get clogged up. back flush the heater core too. I recommend Motor craft tstats.
__________________
2004 Edge, Ext Cab, 3.0 vin#U, 2wd, M5OD, AC, 112k (new heads)

2001 Chevy Prizm, Auto, 108k.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-01-2011, 06:09 AM
wanta79's Avatar
wanta79 wanta79 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern MD
Posts: 60
wanta79 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks for the replys....going to try and flush the entire thing this afternoon after work. I'm really thinking that it's clogged up because last night I opened the petcock on the radiator and there was barely a dribble of coolant coming out.

If it is clogged, what is the best method of flushing the system? I was thinking of putting a tee in the heater hose a doing it from there.

The temp gauge reads about middle of the "normal" range when it's warmed up.

Where is the heater control valve located and is this something I can test at home?

Oh, and I forgot, it's a 3.0 V6, 2wd, A/T.
__________________
1979 F-250 4X4 SuperCab
Ranger XLT Lariat Trailer Special
460-C6 / NP205
http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/The%20Beast/
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-01-2011, 06:31 AM
powersmoked's Avatar
powersmoked powersmoked is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 1,692
powersmoked is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Napa sells a Product by MAC that works good for flushing.I would spend the $10 for new heater hoses and change them first. I bet they are filled with crap. Your truck sounds pretty nasty. I would disconnect the heater hoses at the heater core and connect them. that way the crap will not clog up the core any more than it is already. You can back flush the heater core separately. I would pull the bottom radiator hose off and flush that all out before I started the truck. Get as much crap out before you flush the engine out when it is running. You will have to run the truck to full operating temp with water in a few times to get all the crap out. the heater control valve should be inline with the heater supply hose you can see if it is opening an closing when the AC is on. Go to Rockauto.com and you can see what it looks like. Ideally removing the T-stat during the flush is best not necessary. The goods news is that if your heater core is trashed it is a cheap and easy fix. Any Rangers after 1994 you have to pull the dash to replace the heater core.

a good signature helps a lot. If from the 1st post you had a detailed signature that included if you had AC and what transmission you had we would have know if you have a heater control valve and if you had a 5 speed we would know that pulling the radiator is a POC.
__________________
2004 Edge, Ext Cab, 3.0 vin#U, 2wd, M5OD, AC, 112k (new heads)

2001 Chevy Prizm, Auto, 108k.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-01-2011, 05:15 PM
wanta79's Avatar
wanta79 wanta79 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern MD
Posts: 60
wanta79 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Pretty sure its the heater core now, flushed entire system really good and refilled. After it reached normal temp I felt the heater hoses to and from the core. The one going to the core was hot and the other was cold. Have one ordered, and it'll be in tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone for your help!!
__________________
1979 F-250 4X4 SuperCab
Ranger XLT Lariat Trailer Special
460-C6 / NP205
http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/The%20Beast/
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-02-2011, 07:50 PM
wanta79's Avatar
wanta79 wanta79 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southern MD
Posts: 60
wanta79 is starting off with a positive reputation.
We have heat!

Well it was a very clogged eater core! Changed it out and burped the system, all good now.

Thanks to all for the help!

~Mark
__________________
1979 F-250 4X4 SuperCab
Ranger XLT Lariat Trailer Special
460-C6 / NP205
http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/The%20Beast/
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-02-2011, 08:01 PM
B 3000 B 3000 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
B 3000 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wanta79 View Post
Pretty sure its the heater core now, flushed entire system really good and refilled. After it reached normal temp I felt the heater hoses to and from the core. The one going to the core was hot and the other was cold. Have one ordered, and it'll be in tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone for your help!!

Yes I would say it's your heater core. Years ago I had a chevy S 10 & had the same problem.

Good luck on the replacement.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-05-2011, 05:14 PM
rangerskip rangerskip is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 5
rangerskip is starting off with a positive reputation.
ranger - no heat

Thanks all for the tips & insights.

I too went through the entire cycle of replacements -water pump & thermostat.
I could not get any flow through the core. I COULD pass water directly from a garden hose through the core & no leaks were noticed inside. I put a ~6" section of clear plastic hose in-line with the heater core line back to the thermostat housing. This proved the no flow. I put the front end up on ramps & this got the 'air lock' out of the core & the water flowing. The heat is good.
I hope this helps someone else from all the testing & guesswork.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-06-2011, 05:40 PM
Uncle Steve Uncle Steve is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 21
Uncle Steve is starting off with a positive reputation.
I put in a new heater core and never had heat since. Saw this thread and went to checking. Thought I would check the valve for obstructions. Now my valve is bad. The nipple broke as I was pulling the hose off. Now I will know if it was the valve?
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-06-2011, 06:09 PM
Furyus1's Avatar
Furyus1 Furyus1 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Southern Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,819
Furyus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputationFuryus1 has a superb reputation
Sounds like you need to replace the valve anyway so if, after you replace it you get heat, I'd say that would be a good indicator the valve was the culprit.
__________________
-Terry.
2004 Ranger XLT SC 4x4, 4.0L-SOHC, M5OD-R1HD, 4.10LS, Payload Pkg2, Towing Pkg.
1977 F150 Ranger 4x4, 414cid (6.8L) w/ '72 2V Cleveland heads, C6 Auto.
"
You obviously don't comprehend the level of insane I operate at." - The 4th Doctor
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-06-2011, 10:06 PM
Uncle Steve Uncle Steve is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 21
Uncle Steve is starting off with a positive reputation.
I was sort of mad at myself for breaking it. But it has to be original so it was probably due for a replacement . Plus I found Oreilly has it for less than $30.

This darn thing just keeps messing with me. Put in a new heater core this spring, new clutch slave cylinder and clutch during the summer. Drove it home from the shop and the ignition actuator crapped out. Got it replaced and now it's the heat.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-07-2011, 12:20 AM
michigan66's Avatar
michigan66 michigan66 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Saginaw, MI
Posts: 1,530
michigan66 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Thanks for the feedback. Its good to lnow that your colling system problem is solved
__________________
2008 XLT, 2.3 DOHC, 5R44e Automatic, 7.5" axle, 4.10 gears, 50 K miles
Motorcraft Blend in Engine, PS, PB, A/C, 225/70 x 15 Continental ContiTrac RWL tires,
extended cab, 6' bed, Access tonneau cover.

Previous vehicle: 1991 XLT, 2.3 SOHC (Lima), M5OD, 7.5 axle 3.45 gears. Donated to a charity.
Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2011, 12:20 AM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Small Chassis Trucks > Ranger & B-Series

Tags
1997, 2000, 2002, 2004, core, f150, f250, flush, ford, heat, heater, plugged, ranger, truck, trucks, v6

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup