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  #16  
Old 10-31-2011, 08:34 PM
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I will check the #1 pin tomorrow after work, then go from there....Is that the only one that should have power? Is it a constant power or key on, or truck running power?

Your meaning I need to check at the relay location or down at the solenoid plug I repaired?
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2011, 06:25 AM
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I havnt been able to check the pin for power yet, but will get a chance today though. Someone on another forum mentioned the solenoid pack may be bad. Is it possible to test, and is the transmission going to need removed if so?
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2011, 11:53 AM
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Ok I am getting power to the transmission, I am getting power out of the two pins in the right side of the picture, the top and lower one on the right.

Click the image to open in full size.

No power from any of the other pins.
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2011, 12:39 PM
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I figured out how to test for codes using a digital multimeter. Now I just got to figure out how to read the codes.

I use a wire from the ground to the Self test input then use a multi meter with it set to continuity and go from the positive side of the battery to the self test output.

I put the go pedal to the floor then turn the key on, then I am getting a bunch of rapid flashes of the meter and pauses.
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  #20  
Old 11-02-2011, 02:16 PM
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Reading codes...


video 2011 11 02 13 22 41 - YouTube
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  #21  
Old 11-02-2011, 09:08 PM
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ok.let's see if i get these right.don't take these codes to the bank though ok.iv never read them before with a meter.so bare with me.....

11 = System checks OK.

56 = Transmission Oil Temperature sensor too high

13 = (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO)
(R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
(M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking

67 = Park/Neutral circuit fault
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault


35 = EVP - (R) Engine RPM's too low to test EGR system
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor signal is/was high
PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor signal is/was high

11 = System checks OK.

56 = Transmission Oil Temperature sensor too high


holy crap man lol.
id be testing the MLPS.
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  #22  
Old 11-03-2011, 01:13 PM
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Could be, I read that a fail mlps will usually not throw a code for it. Now to figure out how to properly adjust or test it for being bad or good.
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  #23  
Old 11-03-2011, 05:26 PM
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It's not the MLPS. That may be bad, and it can cause problems, but it cannot make the trans start in overdrive, which is what you have.

The ONLY way that can happen is when you don't have a good connection to the solenoid body. You may have power at the connector, but you probably don't have power all the way to the solenoids or the ground wires to the solenoids are bad.
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  #24  
Old 11-03-2011, 07:04 PM
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Im going to replace the solenoid wiring, hopefully the junkyard will have a decent looking one. Hey Mark thanks for checking this out!
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2011, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky View Post
It's not the MLPS. it cannot make the trans start in overdrive
ahh.very good to know.thanks Mark.
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  #26  
Old 11-04-2011, 07:21 PM
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How does the solenoid pack get removed?
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  #27  
Old 11-04-2011, 07:36 PM
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drop the pan to gain access.

help removing e4od solenoid pack - FSB Forums

this info will be handy for you now:
Transmission Application E4OD : Solenoid Resistance (Ohms)
Shift Solenoid 1 : 20-30
Shift Solenoid 2 : 20-30
Torque Converter Solenoid : 20-30
Coast Clutch Solenoid : 20-30
Electronic Pressure Control : 4.0-6.5

should you diagnose the solenoid pack as bad,here is a place to buy replacements if you want new;

4L60E 700R4 4L80E 4R100 E4OD 2004R C6 TH350 TH400 Transmission Parts: New E4OD Transmission Solenoid Pack 1989-1994


"You may have power at the connector, but you probably don't have power all the way to the solenoids or the ground wires to the solenoids are bad. "

notice Mark is leaning more towards the wiring to them (id agree too after looking at that plug.who knows how long those wires where left exposed and how deep the corrosion goes) rather than the solenoid(s) being faulty.
so,should you decide the wires are good,be sure to measure the resistance to them.......how i don't know though lol.the thing must come apart,or you do so at the pins perhaps.i was about to do this to mine,but didn't have to go so deep luckily.
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2011, 07:50 PM
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So the solenoid pack is that whole thing? I was just figuring it was just a small electrical sensor! Also isnt there two of these?
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2011, 07:57 PM
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thats the whole thing.that gem right there is how your trans is controlled via the brain of course.all 5 solenoids are in this unit.
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  #30  
Old 11-08-2011, 06:57 PM
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Just got the solenoid pack and solenoid wiring replaced, and it is still not working! Im getting a little aggravated now. I keep thinking its something internal thats going to end up costing me big $$$.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:57 PM
 
 
 
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