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I-Beam (not radius arm) Bushings causing steering and wear issues?

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Old 10-27-2011, 09:31 AM
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I-Beam (not radius arm) Bushings causing steering and wear issues?

I was talking to my friend the other day about how I want to install DJM Dream Beams onto my truck and I was showing him what I would be replacing (he's more familiar with Chevy suspension), and in the process I noticed that one of my I-Beam bushings, the passenger side one, is shot. I can clearly see the beam sagging instead of being centered where it's bolted on.

I have had steering issues since the day I got the truck, it has always pulled to the right. It was compounded by bad radius arm bushings; I had them replaced last year and it improved steering a lot, but it still pulls somewhat. Also, the passenger side tire is the only one that showed abnormal wear over the time I owned my last set. It was almost completely bald from the center out.

Could bad I-Beam bushings cause steering problems and tire wear issues?
 
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:40 AM
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You betcha they can. If the I-beam isn't held securely on the end, how is it ever gonna keep the tire from being outta whack?
 
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:00 AM
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Exactly what I was thinking. No clue how long it's been like this...I only started noticing something was wrong when I'd hear a weird "thunk" sound that you can sort of feel as well, when I'd back my truck out of the driveway sometimes, or if I'd apply the brakes, it'd do it sometimes...wouldn't do it all the time. Usually only if the truck sat and had a chance to settle (if that makes sense).

How involved of a job is it to replace those bushings? Is it harder than doing radius arm bushings?

When I get this fixed I think I'm gonna put poly bushings in, and see how it does.
 
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:32 AM
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I replaced one and it was pretty easy, it took a little less than an hour. I just removed the nut, jacked the beam up a little bit to take some weight off of it and hit the bolt out. Then lowerd the jack pretty far to get the bushing out. I was having a little bit of trouble getting the new one in all the way. I took a file and removed some burs and I got the new bushing in with a few hits from a hammer.

The other side seems to be in decent shape, I will probably replace it anyway. My passenger side tire had really bad tire wear, but the drivers side was okay. I think it will be fine now, I got some new tires so we'll see.

Pictures:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10935293
 
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:59 PM
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Well I priced getting the bushings replaced at a local shop....$300 and -I- have to bring my own bushings....for that much I could do it myself and have enough left over to do ball joints... :\
 
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKirbyMan
Well I priced getting the bushings replaced at a local shop....$300 and -I- have to bring my own bushings....for that much I could do it myself and have enough left over to do ball joints... :\

I said something similar when I asked the only shop in town that knew what I was talking about how much to do it on my truck. I think they said $125 per bushing and I had to supply them myself. I did a search on here and found a thread about a homemade bushing tool. I made one for myself and it worked perfectly. Here are a couple of links that might help. And, if you really need some more help, you could always come by here and I will give you a hand.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-bushings.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...oval-tool.html
 
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:48 PM
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Kirby, I did this when I was installing my lift last year. Near as I can remember, I used a chisel and hammer to beat the old bushing out... and I believe I used my ball joint press to install the new one. Overall, it wasn't hard at all. Then again, it's been a year and I don't have a stellar memory.
 
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:31 PM
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I did mine last week both sides about three hours. I took the I beam out completely and got it up on the bench. I used a chisle to get the old ones out and pressed in the new with the vise bolted to the bench. wound have been easier with a hydraulic press. but no gotie one.
 
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:30 PM
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Thanks for all the help, guys! Do I -have- to have the special tool (the one you showed me, Grubbworm) to put in the new bushings, or is there some way I could get them in with a rubber mallet or big hammer or something? I'm kinda limited on tools, but I can make a special tool if I need to.

Do any of you know of any sites online where I could find some poly bushings? I'm going to call around locally tomorrow but I'm suspecting I'll have to get them online. I've found a few sites but I'm still looking around.
 
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:37 AM
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I hammered on mine trying to get it in, and it wouldn't go. So I just took it back out and I saw a bur sticking up at one end and I just filed it down and then put the bushing back in place and it went in with just a few hits.

I'll do the next one the same way.
 
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:08 AM
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Sweet. One of the poly bushings I looked at online appeared to be a two-piece design, so that might make things different. Might not be a compression fit like the stock pieces.

So basically, when you lowered the jack after removing the bolt, the weight of the truck pushed the beam down and away from its mounting point to where you could get the bushing out?

Maybe after all this is said and done, my truck will actually stay in its own lane. It's not near as bad as it was before I replaced the radius arm bushings though, back then I could turn a curve just by letting go of the wheel. lol
 
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKirbyMan
Thanks for all the help, guys! Do I -have- to have the special tool (the one you showed me, Grubbworm) to put in the new bushings, or is there some way I could get them in with a rubber mallet or big hammer or something? I'm kinda limited on tools, but I can make a special tool if I need to.

Do any of you know of any sites online where I could find some poly bushings? I'm going to call around locally tomorrow but I'm suspecting I'll have to get them online. I've found a few sites but I'm still looking around.

The tool I only used to remove the bushings. Once I had all of the parts cleaned, prepped, and lubricated with special poly lube, the poly bushings that I used pretty much just went right in. I actually found the radius arm bushing installation slightly more difficult. As far as the tool, I went to the local Home Depot and got an 1-1/2" or 2" galvanized bushing (I can't remember), a 12" piece of 1/2" all-thread, 4 nuts, an assortment of washers, and a floor mount for 3/4" pipe (to cover one end of the bushing). I think I had less than $5-$10 in the whole tool. The tool worked like a charm. I need to make slightly larger one for the front cab mounts, since those are the only bushings that I have left to replace. I have to say that the truck now drives better than when it was new. Good luck with yours and take plenty of pictures.
 
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by TheKirbyMan
So basically, when you lowered the jack after removing the bolt, the weight of the truck pushed the beam down and away from its mounting point to where you could get the bushing out?

Yes, you will have to play around with it a little bit, and wedge it to keep it in a position to work on it.
 
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:05 PM
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Sweet, I thought I was gonna have to weld stuff together to make the tool. I bet I can find all the parts easy, there's like three or four different home and farm stores here.

I will get pics (before and after) and make a how-to topic on how to replace the bushings.

Where did you get your bushings from, by the way?
 
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:33 AM
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I did my bushings on my 84 f250. Got them from Energy Suspension
 


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