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  #16  
Old 10-26-2011, 09:31 AM
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67 has to do with the neutral switch on the Trans it would cause an erratic idle since the idle its effected by its position.
29 has to do with the EGR or EVP not VSS ok you're truck.
32 is EVR EVP signal was low.
Ford Bronco EEC IV Codes
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  #17  
Old 10-26-2011, 09:31 AM
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67 has to do with the neutral switch on the Trans it would cause an erratic idle since the idle its effected by its position.
29 has to do with the EGR or EVP not VSS ok you're truck.
32 is EVR EVP signal was low.
Ford Bronco EEC IV Codes
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8 lug, and 37x12.50 Baja TA.
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  #18  
Old 10-27-2011, 01:41 AM
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WRONG. Code 29 is the Code for failed VSS signal. I agree that a truck originally equipped with a C6 should NOT be throwing that Code. However, Code 29 has ONLY ONE indication... period. This one is either a result of OE or the wrong ECM in the truck. Since I doubt anyone replaced a functioning ECM, I'd bet on the former.

Code 67 in a NON-E4OD application refers to EITHER an open neutral safety switch OR an engaged Air Conditioning switch. Either way, the Code has the same basic meaning. The MLPS took the place of the NDS in vehicles equipped with the E4OD. A failing/failed NDS will have the SAME effect that a misaligned/failed MLPS would have.

The single most common cause for Code 32 is NOT a bad EVP but an EGR valve not fully seating. Since the EVP sends the highest voltage back to the ECM when the EGR is FULLY SEATED, when the valve fails to fully CLOSE, the EVR sends a voltage LOWER than the ECM is expecting to "see". So, proper (or at the very least, the most cost-effective) method of troubleshooting Code 32 is to check the EGR valve for proper operation BEFORE spending the money on an EVP sensor since it MIGHT not be necessary!

Partial information is as dangerous/expensive as incorrect information.
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  #19  
Old 10-27-2011, 05:00 PM
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I was looking over the pinouts for that type of ecm and it does use a VSS signal so I guess it is entirely possible to have that 29 code.
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8 lug, and 37x12.50 Baja TA.
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  #20  
Old 10-31-2011, 11:11 AM
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I am pulling my hair out. Thanks for all of you guys help. Yesterday I put a new fuel regulator, no help. I cleared the codes and now I get code 96. i crawled under the truck and found this sensor or valve that was tied into my transfercase on the passenger side bottem. I don't know what it is and I could pull it in and out a 1/4 of an inch, it looked like a PVC valve for what I could see. the clamp that holds it in was just hand tight. after I tightend it up you could not move it at all. Still no fix. I started messing with the vacum line that comes out of the Throtal body that goes into the Charcal box ( i think that is what it is) the line just broke from dry rott. When the engine is ideling you could hear it sucking air. The electronic silonide that regulates the air started clicking like valves chattering. So i disconected that so it wouldn't burn up. Then I took the truck for a ride. It did not spudder at all. It had ful power, the only problem was that when I took my foot off the gas the truck wanted to keep going the same speed untill i got it slowed down by the breaks and then the engine RPS would start dropping. I turned it off at a Stop sign and it would not start. I waited about 4 min after I hooked up that silonoid back up, then it started right up. But now it will not run like that again. Any more Ideas?? i am thinking it has a Air problem.
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  #21  
Old 10-31-2011, 03:12 PM
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One more thing that I keep forgeting to mention. 6 years ago when I changed the fuel fillter, I recall it spuewing gas all over me. This time when i changed the fuel filter their was no pressure build up at all. Also when i changed out the fuel regulator it had no pressure either. Would this be what I think it could be "fuel Pump"????
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  #22  
Old 10-31-2011, 05:10 PM
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didnt i ask you to check your fuel pressure? if it didnt you should. get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it to the shrader valve on the fuel rail. with key on engine off it should read 39-42psi and hold that for a while. then start the rig and see where its at. should be the same.
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  #23  
Old 11-01-2011, 08:15 AM
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Yes you told me and I went to the link you sent me. I am just low low on money. Do you know about what they cost? If it is below 39 would that mean it is the pump in my tank or the high pressure pump?
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  #24  
Old 11-01-2011, 10:44 AM
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I believe you can rent a fuel pressure gauge from autozone or napa. if its below 39psi im not sure which pump it would honestly. when you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump kick on at all? I would think the intank pump would be the first to fail. I am sure there are ways to test them, might google that or check on fordfuelinjection.com.
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  #25  
Old 11-01-2011, 01:47 PM
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You know just thinking off the top of my head the fuel pressure fitting is the same as a valve stem. Has anybody ever tried using the little cheap round face tire pressure gauge like AZ sells up by the counter? It is only reading pressure and even the good gauge setups spill a little fuel just a thought and it's a cheap fairly acurate gauge.
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Sterling 10.25 rear l/s, Dana 44 front L/S,
8 lug, and 37x12.50 Baja TA.
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  #26  
Old 11-01-2011, 02:26 PM
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Yes I can hear the high pressure pump prime up. I got to admit that it is not as loud as it use to be. I unpluged the pump and it would not even start. But someone on this thread said that the engine would still run even if the one in the gas tank died. ( I do not know if this is true) but that dosn't tell me anything. I get paid Friday so I will rent a guage. But I am going to try a tire guage I got in the garage. I will post tomorrow if it works and I have not caught myself on fire. LOL!!
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  #27  
Old 11-01-2011, 02:32 PM
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Just becuase they look alike...... the AC system uses a scradaer valve too.....

The fuel pressure tester I'm sure screws on to seal, where the tire valve is just a push on. 40 PSI of gasoline in the face/all over the engine is not fun.
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  #28  
Old 11-01-2011, 04:27 PM
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Good Point.
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  #29  
Old 11-01-2011, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poffutt View Post
Yes I can hear the high pressure pump prime up. I got to admit that it is not as loud as it use to be. I unpluged the pump and it would not even start. But someone on this thread said that the engine would still run even if the one in the gas tank died. ( I do not know if this is true) but that dosn't tell me anything. I get paid Friday so I will rent a guage. But I am going to try a tire guage I got in the garage. I will post tomorrow if it works and I have not caught myself on fire. LOL!!
I was the one who brought that up mine would actually vapor lock after a little while it was also 90+ outside so it may have went longer if it was cooler outside. I had to reprime twice it to get it where I was going. to see if the rear pump is going I disconnected the power to the front pump and then pulled the fuel ine going to it off and pointed it into a catch bottle and had a assistant cycle the key on for me but I did not take a pressure reading.
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Sterling 10.25 rear l/s, Dana 44 front L/S,
8 lug, and 37x12.50 Baja TA.
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  #30  
Old 11-02-2011, 08:31 AM
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Okay! I am getting somewhere. First, you cannot use a tire gauge to check the pressure at the fuel rail. The needle valve on the rail is too deep for a tire gauge to reach.

Help me figure out which pump is bad. I turned the key on and primed up the gas rail. I took a small screw driver and pushed in the needle valve on the rail. Their was only about 1 pound of pressure. The gas did not spray it just barrly came out over the top.

So I started my Bronco and pushed the needle valve again while it was running. It sprayed this time but very weak, it maybe shot up about 8 inches but did not have strong pressue. How should I determin which fuel pump is dying?
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:31 AM
 
 
 
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