I was curious about doing this myself, I do need to replace my water pump, and an aftermarket coolant filter kit is like $100. The discharge is on the opposite side putting it on the same side for the lower radiator hose. Has anyone ever seen it done for sure?
You can have a DIY by-pass coolant for around 50 buks.
a piece of metal to mount on d/s atop the radiator bolts, a coolant base and filter. Hike on over to Autozone, get some fuel line and a few NPT barbed fittings and go at it...
The T444E pump fits and does so with the PS pump with no clearance issues at all. The only things that are different or out of the norm from any other pump install is you need to grind off the one boss that was meant for another pulley that is not needed. Angle grinder bench grinder hell hand file and it will only take a few mins. The other thing is the stamped serial number tends to hit the Super duty pump pulley for some so grind it off at the same time. That is really the only "mods" that have to be done. You need a few different bolts but you can reuse a number of the Ford bolts. A Dodge with 5.9 Cummins lower rad hose. These also use the long stem T-stat so that gives you the option of all kinds of temp ranges. No need to buy the "special 203" if you want it. You can use the standard 205 that IH intended these motors to run with or you can use a 195-197 that Ford switched to for emission reasons but lower combustion efficiency.
The last thing is the heater hose connections.
You need the part numbers to make it kiss simple here ya go:
1831676C92 THE Water Pump
1817958C1 [x3] Bolt 30mm
1817811C1 [x2] Bolt 20mm
1818693C1 [x4] Bolt 110mm
1822653C92 Pulley, Grooved for 8-rib belt
2001804C1 Bolt to hold pulley
1823450C1 Pulley Bearing Dust Cover
1823417C92 Thermostat 197 degree
Stant 205° #14252
from Napa [I ordered these online...]
8825 Upper Radiator Hose
8763 Lower Radiator Hose
705-1319 [x2] Hose Clamps
705-1313 [x2] Hose Clamps
705-1315 [x2] Hose Clamps
3/4 NPT to 1" male barb*
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb*
Or you can use the following which is ideal:
* NOTE: Straight fittings could be used but 45* are better
- 3/4 NPT to 1" male barb 45* (Jeg's 100491)
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb 45* (Russell 663080)
A few benefits:
Use of the different T-stat temps without having to purchase custom made like those from Diesel site
Built in filter so that you do not have to purchase a separate kit with each hoses and places to leak and take up more room to mount. Also does not bypass the T-stat like the remotes do if you follow the typical install directions.
The HPOP bolt port is no longer blocked by the Heater hose port. Its now off to the passenger side. Makes changing a HPOP that much faster and easier.
Cast Iron instead of alum.
Pump has a cut off for the bypass filter built in.
The Alliant brand are made is USA. IIRC the casting is import but assemble and other parts are USA @ Geomar.
It is anything but hard if you have the least amount of mechanical ability. The only thing that is not just a part swap is grinding two places and takes no skill if looks do not count. Grinding off a serial number and a boss the size of a quarter. Big deal.
Here is a pic of one installed on a 7.3 powerstroke.
One last thing you should install the fittings before installing the pump if you go with the 45 as they will not clear when you are spinning them on.
The filter cut off uses a standard snap ring and o-ring . The o-ring is standard rubber unit. I would replace it with a viton unit to be sure it does not leak down the road. Its a -205 size. Very simple to do. Pull the snap ring and the unit comes right out. Take off the old oring install the new. Reinstall. Simple. Not required but I would recommend it as it was recommended to me.
Please tell me how this is any more complex than a normal pump install plus installing a remote bypass filter with cutting hose adding ts and clamps. Mounting the filter head etc Sorry I do not see it.
I have been on here for a long time( longer than even my join date indicates) but mainly lurk as I tend to focus on performance side of things and there are other forums more dedicated to this. I do have to say I have learned a good number of things for this forum as there are some very smart people on here. But they are more focused on maintenance, repair, and convenience upgrades. I just noticed where this one left off and even though it was a bit old I hated the idea of people passing up what it a great upgrade because it was said to be super complicated etc which for any person that has actually done it or read about using the most straightforward way knows it takes actually no more skill or expertise that it does to just do a normal water pump replacement other than basic operation of a file or grinder LOL.
From a guy that is always tinkering with performance items of the 7.3 a big plus of this pump swap is it gets that heater fitting out from in front of the HPOP bolt access port. Makes things so much quicker and easy.
But I have to say what I personally like is how clean it makes things compared to running a sep bypass.
Honestly to do a quality job that looks good and functions just as well as the IH integrated bypass you will need two ball valves to cut flow to the filter as well the filter hose routing needs to stay on the engine side of the coolant flow so you need to be having return going to a heater hose etc not the degauss bottle as it creates a bypass around the tstat and in very cold areas greatly increases warm up time. This is bad for engine wear as well.
The other performance oriented plus is the extra ports this pump has. You typically will block these all off with the supplied plugs. But if you are running a turbo that align with oil has water cooling of the center section as my GTX4294r does this makes for very good option for coolant flow rather than tying into other places.
The fact is IMO all the 7.3 need the bypass filter. While doing a flush and switching to ELC coolant for post 99 engines will mitigate the sediment from SCA additives there is still the issue of sand. Our engine blocks were all made thru the process of sand casting. They seem to have done less than complete jobs on removing all the sand from the coolant passages. Even flushes do not completely get rid of it all. Pulling the freeze plugs can get you almost perfect though but still. Sand is an issue and just a very small amount cycled over and over thru a pump will kill it eventually. IMO Ford looked at the situation the cost of the pumps vs what they could have made from outsourcing. How long it took pumps to fail and how much could be made from pump sales and dealer mech rates. Original pumps seem to fail after typical warranty period. So it was a good profit based choice that had little neg effects as water pumps are not a HUGE cost item owners.
Here is a pic of a engine that proper coolant service and a bypass filter was added along with a change over to ELC coolant. This leaves little doubt of the kind of level of sand that are to be found in there engines coolant passages even a decade after manf.
I am getting ready to do the pump swap on my Excrusion that I purchased. I was doing a number of other upgrades IC trans cooler Melling LPOP etc at the same time so I have torn everything out of the front. It would make it easy to do a how to with pic links parts list etc if that is something people would find helpful.
Out of stock after all. Did find the EI pump at Bus Parts Experts for $127, though. Can't seem to find any negative feedback on them on the web, so I'm going to guinea pig this thing for everyone. The Alliant is twice the price or more, and I found on another site that the bearings in the EI pumps are a higher grade than OEM. Soooooo, here goes!
I shall take many photos!
2001 Excursion 4x4 7.3L, 4" turbo back, AIS, 910 Springs, Melling M208, HPx, FRx, Bellowed, Hutched, V coded, AIH/EBPV/foil delete, F350 rear sway, Derale tranny pan, drilled/slotted, T444e water pump, Fumoto, Glowshift TM/DV - EGT fuel and boost, 250k All modifications installed by ME!
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