1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Steering Column Bearing Replacement

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Old 10-23-2011, 07:59 PM
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Steering Column Bearing Replacement

Hi -

While in the process of replacing the steering box on my '66 F100, I noticed that the steering column bearing are wiped out. What is the proper process to pull the steering column shaft so I can replace the bearings? Also, I noticed that MAC's sells a steering column lower flange, p.n. C5TZ-3508. Do I need this?

Thanks!
Dan M.
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:45 AM
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bearings

I recently installed power steering on my 65. I got the gear box from a 1979. I also grabbed the complete column. The inner column is the same diameter as the 65. I wound up using the 79 column and bearings, top and bottom along with the retainer on the bottom. I had to cut off about 3/8" of threads at the top so as to get my wheel on. That made the column fit with no welding. all works good.
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:53 AM
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Remove the steering wheel first, and put the nut back on to keep the steering shaft from coming out when you remove the whole column. To pull the column you need to disconnect the turn signal wires, remove the 2 bolts into the dash, 4 bolts at the fire wall, 2 inside and 2 outside, last is the 2 bolts at the rag joint. Then the column comes out.

As for the cup MACS shows, you may or may not need this. You will have to pull the column to know. All the bearings and sleeves cost me less than $60.00. If you have a column shifter, remove the turn signal switch, and the 2 bolts below, and all the column comes apart. Check the shift tube, they are easy to find, and frequently messed up. Another issue you may have is if the bottom bearings are wasted, you can see the steering shaft worn. I bought a used column to rebuild, and the steering shaft was too worn to use.

All in all, if you have the parts sitting ready, and don't need to replace the bearing cup or steering shaft, the job takes less than 2 hours.
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:09 AM
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C3DZ-3517-A .. Steering Column Bearing / Available from Ford / MSRP each: $10.68 / PARTSGUYED.COM price each: $7.69.

B1AZ-3518-A .. Steering Column Bearing Nylon Sleeve (not necessary unless broken) / Available from Ford / MSRP each: $10.12 / PARTSGUYED.COM price each: $7.28.

F100/350 applications: 1961/73 F100/250 2WD Upper & Lower / 1961/73 F100/250 4WD-Upper / 1961/66 F350-Upper / 1967/73 F350 Upper & Lower.
Originally Posted by mercmeister
MAC'S sells a lower steering column flange p/n C5TZ-3508-A
No such Ford part number! Not listed in the 1957/63 nor 1964/72 Ford Truck Parts Catalogs...for anything!

The lower flange is made as part of the steering shaft. 1965 and later, the steering coupler (aka rag joint) bolts to it.

The following is what y'all will find at the bottom of the steering column-above the steering shafts flange:

C5TZ-3D681-A .. Lower Steering Column Bearing Retainer-Use with Manual & Ford/Saginaw Power Steering / Obsolete

Applications: 1965/66 F100/250 2WD Manual Steering / 1967/72 F100/350 2WD Manual Steering / 1969 F100/350 w/Ford Power Steering from serial number D96,001 & 1970/72 F100/350.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
C6TZ-3D681-B .. Lower Steering Column Bearing Retainer-Use w/Bendix Power Steering / Obsolete

Applications: 1966/68 F100/250 2WD / 1969 F100/250 2WD before serial number D96,001. F350's were not available with P/S before serial number D96,001.
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:47 AM
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Hope I'm not hijacking this thread but hoping someone will have an answer and it relates. While replacing my rag joint this weekend I noticed that my steering column is sort of spring loaded and wants to retract about 3/4" into the inside of the truck, the only thing holding it back is the rag joint, I never got everything completely tightened down but it just didn't seem right, creates a space along the interior of my steering column, wondering if I'm missing some kind of retaining clip, I've got it together incorrectly or if it's supposed to work that way.
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by likeagoodbook
Hope I'm not hijacking this thread but hoping someone will have an answer and it relates. While replacing my rag joint this weekend I noticed that my steering column is sort of spring loaded and wants to retract about 3/4" into the inside of the truck, the only thing holding it back is the rag joint, I never got everything completely tightened down but it just didn't seem right, creates a space along the interior of my steering column, wondering if I'm missing some kind of retaining clip, I've got it together incorrectly or if it's supposed to work that way.

This must be from the spring at the top of the steering column. It will pull back down when you get the new Rag joint in. If you want to make the process easier, and have a wheel puller, pull the Steering wheel and the shaft can move up and down freely. You may want someone on the top though to hold it up while you insert the new joint.
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Broomfieldbum
Remove the steering wheel first, and put the nut back on to keep the steering shaft from coming out when you remove the whole column. To pull the column you need to disconnect the turn signal wires, remove the 2 bolts into the dash, 4 bolts at the fire wall, 2 inside and 2 outside, last is the 2 bolts at the rag joint. Then the column comes out.

As for the cup MACS shows, you may or may not need this. You will have to pull the column to know. All the bearings and sleeves cost me less than $60.00. If you have a column shifter, remove the turn signal switch, and the 2 bolts below, and all the column comes apart. Check the shift tube, they are easy to find, and frequently messed up. Another issue you may have is if the bottom bearings are wasted, you can see the steering shaft worn. I bought a used column to rebuild, and the steering shaft was too worn to use.

All in all, if you have the parts sitting ready, and don't need to replace the bearing cup or steering shaft, the job takes less than 2 hours.

Thanks! I pulled the steering column and steering box today and it looks like the steering shaft is worn out as you thought. So now my next question is, if I install a power steering box, do I need to use a different steering column?

Dan M.
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:46 PM
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Yes, I am told the power box is taller, so the steering column is shorter. I didn't pursue it since I am going as stock as possible.
 
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Old 10-25-2011, 11:49 PM
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The lower column bearing retainer is a DC part with a fictitious part number.

The old part needs to be removed by drilling the spot-welds and placing the new stamped piece in place.

This along with the bearing, taper retainers and seal are all available but not necessarily listed as for a 65 66. you have to look to 67 to 72 as the parts are the same.

There is a lower steering shaft retainer that sandwiches the seal, taper and bearings to provide the correct 1/16" clearance at the steering wheel hub to TS upper column section. Once the wheel is correctly seated the adjustment of this can be done.

A manual on the floor column is easily modified to work with later power steering, If you have the gumpton to remove and replace the mount might as well just shorten the stock unit.

Garbz
 
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by likeagoodbook
Hope I'm not hijacking this thread but hoping someone will have an answer and it relates. While replacing my rag joint this weekend I noticed that my steering column is sort of spring loaded and wants to retract about 3/4" into the inside of the truck, the only thing holding it back is the rag joint, I never got everything completely tightened down but it just didn't seem right, creates a space along the interior of my steering column, wondering if I'm missing some kind of retaining clip, I've got it together incorrectly or if it's supposed to work that way.
Just changed mine about 2 weeks ago and had the same problem 65 f250. Once I had the rag joint on the steering shaft and the gear box ( not tighten just loose ) I had someone push down on the steering wheel while I slipped it the rest of the way on the steering gear box. This will pull the steering wheel back to were it should be.
 
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by likeagoodbook
Hope I'm not hijacking this thread but hoping someone will have an answer and it relates. While replacing my rag joint this weekend I noticed that my steering column is sort of spring loaded and wants to retract about 3/4" into the inside of the truck, the only thing holding it back is the rag joint, I never got everything completely tightened down but it just didn't seem right, creates a space along the interior of my steering column, wondering if I'm missing some kind of retaining clip, I've got it together incorrectly or if it's supposed to work that way.
I had this same problem with my 66 F100. It was a retainer on the shaft. Where the shaft comes through the engine firewall, you will see a cover over the column and mounted to the firewall. At the end of this cover, toward the steering box, there is a retainer on the shaft that is upposed to prevent it from pulling up into the cab (which it tends to do, I think because of the spring under the steering wheel). What happens is that when your rag joint starts to go it places more pressure on this retainer, and the weaker the retainer gets the more it pulls the rag joint apart. I didn't get a replacement part for mine. I just fashioned a retainer for it using a split coupling and a clamp. If memory serves it was one of those clamps they use to ground household electrical wires to water pipes. A good strong clamp and did the trick. There's not a lot of pressure on it, just enough to create the gap you describe between the wheel and the column, and enough over time to pull the rag joint apart.
 
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:31 PM
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Thanks for everyone's feedback. There is a good tech article on the Fordification.com web site about installing power steering on '67-'72 Ford pick-ups that applies to the '65-'66 Twin I Beam trucks as well. I've located a 1969 Ford F100 truck and plan to scavenge the steering column and associated parts.

Dan M.
 
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Mercmeister
There is a good tech article on the Fordification.com web site about installing power steering on '67-'72 Ford pick-ups that applies to the '65-'66 Twin I Beam trucks as well.
Uh huh...does the article discuss all the myriad differences between columns, gearboxes, pumps and such?

I've located a 1969 Ford F100 and plan to scavenge the steering column and associated parts.
1969: There were TWO different types of P/S available: Bendix & Ford. The parts do not interchange!

BENDIX P/S: 1966/68 F100/250 2WD / 1969 F100/250 2WD before serial number D96,001.

FORD P/S: 1969 F100/250 2WD & F350 from serial number D96,001 / 1970/79 F100/350 / 1978/79 F150/350 4WD.

F350's were not available with P/S before that serial number cut-off date. Ford P/S was also used on misc 1965/2002 Passenger Cars and trucks into the 1990's.

Ford P/S: The P/S pump is essentially the same 1965/77, has a steel reservoir. The 1978 and later pump has a plastic reservoir, is smaller in daimeter, uses different P/S hoses, brackets, etc than the 1965/77 pump.

1980 and later, most of the parts will not fit 1979 or earlier, as the trucks were totally redesigned.

1965: No P/S was available, neitherr factory nor dealer installed.
 
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:36 AM
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Hi ND - You can review the following and comment:

How to Install Power Steering in a 2WD F100/250/350 - FORDification.com

This article looks pretty thorough to me...

Thanks,
Dan M.
 
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:15 PM
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ive got a 67 ford im disassemlbing for parts for my 68 highboy(i know i didnt want to but its too far gone to save all the supports are rotten the motors toast transmission on the way out too) anyway im trying to pull the steering column and its being a stubborn mule can anyone help i appreciate it
 


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