Well on my head switch i got a male tab front and center in top, there is 2 tabs in the bottom which I believed those were for the dome light. My dash lights connect to the top tab... Does your dimmer work??
Yes... I can turn on the dome light. I just have no lights.
I have these two wires that come out of the headlight switch not connected to anything. They come from the same spot on the headlight switch. If I run a voltage meter through both I get 12 V if the headlights are on.
I would believe these connect to the instrument panel lights on either side of the speedo but I do not see where those wires come through.
Hmmmmm.... I wish I could help....I did use the stock switch but i ran aftermarket gauges. All my + wires from the lighting were crimped to one female connection to that tab on the switch.
So all the lights work? Headlights,Turn signals,brake lights, Turn signal indicators, oil,water temp,volt,fuel gauge etc etc.....except the lighting of the speedometer? Did you install any aftermarket wiring? Stock wiring?
How are the bulbs sockets? Grounded? Corrosion? Dielectric grease helps....
I just have two wires with power coming out of the headlight switch. They stop two-three inches from the switch with female ends. It's like I am missing the connection at this point to the lights, like there is some junction point here to the wires on the lights.
To check if they are for the dash lights, see if the voltage you get from those two wires to ground changes when you turn the headlight ****. If it stays at 12V, the two lights will stay at full brightness.
Only has 12 V when power is on from pulling headlights. No power without lights. PO had routed front day time type lights to front bumper so I have been wondering if all this got altered. There is a separate switch for those. Gonna stop by Pep Boys and see if there is an after market 12 V I can get to work.
This might help. I looked up the switch in the service manual, and there is terminal near the end of the switch closest to the dash panel labeled I. This is for the instrument lights. Sometimes you have to loosen the headlight switch and drop it below the dash to see this. The other terminals are marked H (headlights) P (parking lights) R (tail lights) D (dome light) A (stop lights) and B (battery). If you get no voltage at the I terminal, the wire coil in the rheostat (the ceramic part that turns when you turn the ****) may be bad.
Removing the gauge set is pretty easy, about 6 screws. The wire supplying the lights is pretty easy to identify. Check and see if it has power, you may have a grounding issue to solve. I ran a new ground wire to a bright and clean surface on mine. If that doesn't work, run a power wire from your switch to the light circuit, using one of the wires you mention. Unless someone disconnected something, the issue is likely a lack of ground, so as I said, check there first.
Having just been in that area, I remember all the dash light wires were a medium blue color. There was one lead with two tails that were blue. These just plug into tails coming from the snap-in lamp sockets at the back of the panel. Hope this helps.
'92 F350 4x4 dual wheel flatbed truck. 7.3IDI, 5 sp man tran. '59 F350 flareside with cummins 6AT, '47 2 ton stake, '47 one ton panel, 47 1/2 ton, '37 1 1/2 ton, 29AA stakebed, '80 diesel scout, antique one lung engines
The problem is not missing lights or power... The lights are not connected!!! I think the wire has been completely removed. Rather than a weekend science project, just gonna run a new light. I'll post a picture when I come up with it.
I have two female ends that when connected, and the headlights are on, are producing 12 volt power. It IS the dash light from all descriptions above from 3414. IF there was a 6 volt converter and wire... these are gone.
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