Delta out of range still after oil cooler replacement. Insight welcome
#46
#47
2005 ford 6.0 delta temps
Yes. Done coolant flush as ford recommended and then some. Installed egr delete new oil cooler and installed sinister coolant filter. Put new red colored cat antifreeze in it changed filter a few months back for first time and opened that filter up looked and looked clean. Driving home today wrench came on but truck ran great. Pulled codes p012f for delta range and p0528 for fan clutch problem. Fan runs all the time. Today's terms were 65 driving interstate 60 mph. Read temps at high idle for 5 or so minutes and got 192 on ect and 215 on eot. Reason for first mods a few months back were the p012f code. Ran water through old cooler and seemed restricted compared to new one. I've put maybe 300 miles on it since mods.
#48
Yes. Done coolant flush as ford recommended and then some. Installed egr delete new oil cooler and installed sinister coolant filter. Put new red colored cat antifreeze in it changed filter a few months back for first time and opened that filter up looked and looked clean. Driving home today wrench came on but truck ran great. Pulled codes p012f for delta range and p0528 for fan clutch problem. Fan runs all the time. Today's terms were 65 driving interstate 60 mph. Read temps at high idle for 5 or so minutes and got 192 on ect and 215 on eot. Reason for first mods a few months back were the p012f code. Ran water through old cooler and seemed restricted compared to new one. I've put maybe 300 miles on it since mods.
Need to check the ECT and EOT Sensors Temp readings After a 12 Hour Cold Soak they MUST read within 1* or 2* of one another at this time. Doing this will Verify the Integrity of the Sensors
Have you checked the ECT vs EOT temps crusing steady 65mph and Flat/Leval Roadway After Both ECT and EOT Temps Seem to MAX Out and Stabilize??? Is it more than 15*f at this Time {MUST be taken Like this Do Not stop and switch to High Idel then check temps}
It might be the case that since your FAN Runs None Stop that might be afecting things such as ECT
I know you EGR Deleated BUT You MUST Plug in the EGR Valve itself so that the FAN Will Work PROPERLY
However Im not saying pluging in the egr valve will Fix the P0528
How is the EGR Deleated??????
P0528 FSS Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
Possible causes Are
Mechanical fault, short to voltage, open circuit, short to ground
I cant find anything on the P012f Hopefulley one of our GREAT Techs will Chime In on this one!!
So does your Scanner say the P012f is ECT vs EOT Diffrential out spec??
What scanner is it??
#49
#51
You mentioned did coolant flush as Ford recommended. Does this mean that your old cooler was leaking oil into the coolant so you followed the system cleaning procedure, or did you use VC9 after the oil cooler replacement?
It does sound like your new oil cooler is clogged already, and it certainly wouldn't be the first time that's happened. Since it's a new cooler, I would at least try to reverse flush the oil cooler to see if you get lucky, if not you'll need to replace that oil cooler again.
It does sound like your new oil cooler is clogged already, and it certainly wouldn't be the first time that's happened. Since it's a new cooler, I would at least try to reverse flush the oil cooler to see if you get lucky, if not you'll need to replace that oil cooler again.
#52
#53
Update
Ok so I checked delta again after truck has set for 3 to 4 days and there reading 60 and 62. Now I also took the pipe off the degas bottle that runs from top of manifold and put into a clear container. I started truck and fluid coming out was extremely clean. But it was running very slow in my opinion. Maybe 1 gallon in 2-3 minutes. Is that normal or should it flow faster? Does the thermostat have anything to do with the rate or pressure? So then I turned the truck off and thought to blow into the tube to see if there seemed to be a restriction. I blew hard and fluid overflowed the degas bottle fast. I don't see how the cooler could be that clogged to let the air go through it that fast. My next question could the radiator clutch have anything to do with the deltas at all? If clutch is bad will it make deltas greater? And if the answer is no. Could it be that the water pump is not pushing coolant fast enough? Is there anyway to check that? Or is there a vide showing how fast the fluid should run into the degas bottle? Thanks for any and all help. Going on a camping trip next weekend and want to have my baby running right.
#55
I haven't read this whole thread but have read several others and have personal experience with the issue. In my case, sediment that broke loose during my coolant flush(prior to replacing the oil cooler) and was stopped up by the already clogged oil cooler, finally got some flow behind it as soon as I installed the brand new, free flowing cooler and it immediately plugged up my brand new cooler! If you are having EOT/ECT splits still after a brand new oil cooler, 95% of the time it's because of this.
You MIGHT be able to back-flush your oil cooler(there's a procedure in the tech folder I believe) and get rid of the problem, but there's no guarantee.
The other 5% of the time is an issue with the oil bypass system. There are valves below your oil filter - one is an anti-drainback valve to keep oil from returning to the pan on shutdown, another is the filter drain valve, which opens when you remove the filter so the oil DOES drain back to the pan instead of making a mess. And the other is an OIL COOLER bypass valve. Under certain conditions the oil demand is so high that it supply pressure drops in the filter bowl to the point that it has to take hot oil in through the bypass valve. This valve actually opens and closes quite often during normal operation. It is possible for this valve to stick open, thereby preventing the oil from getting proper cooling.
The only way to get this valve is on ebay if you're lucky, or by purchasing the entire oil cooler cover assembly, at $300-400.
If you're like me, you'll be pissed to have to go back in there to remove the oil cooler AGAIN, and you'll want to know it's fixed proper, once and for all. And the ONLY way to do that is to invest in the BPD oil cooler assembly with remote cannister oil filter. It permanently fixes your oil cooling and oil filtration problems, period.
You MIGHT be able to back-flush your oil cooler(there's a procedure in the tech folder I believe) and get rid of the problem, but there's no guarantee.
The other 5% of the time is an issue with the oil bypass system. There are valves below your oil filter - one is an anti-drainback valve to keep oil from returning to the pan on shutdown, another is the filter drain valve, which opens when you remove the filter so the oil DOES drain back to the pan instead of making a mess. And the other is an OIL COOLER bypass valve. Under certain conditions the oil demand is so high that it supply pressure drops in the filter bowl to the point that it has to take hot oil in through the bypass valve. This valve actually opens and closes quite often during normal operation. It is possible for this valve to stick open, thereby preventing the oil from getting proper cooling.
The only way to get this valve is on ebay if you're lucky, or by purchasing the entire oil cooler cover assembly, at $300-400.
If you're like me, you'll be pissed to have to go back in there to remove the oil cooler AGAIN, and you'll want to know it's fixed proper, once and for all. And the ONLY way to do that is to invest in the BPD oil cooler assembly with remote cannister oil filter. It permanently fixes your oil cooling and oil filtration problems, period.
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