I went back through the no-start checklist and didn't find anything.

1. No DTCs.

2. It's in park.

3. N/A

4. Battery is connected and grounds check out.

5. Starter works fine.

6. Glow light comes on and then goes off after about 10 seconds. Both connectors disconnected and reconnected. Pushed all plug connectors into the head and all were already seated.

7. Starter is engaging.

8. Batteries seem fine, but no way to load test them. I've fully charged both.

9. Fuses and fusable links seem fine.

10. No remote start or anti-theft.

11. Fuel cut-off reset.

12. Dash shows LPOP oil pressure.

13. PCM and FICM connections appear fine.

14. Oil level seems correct. 15 qt. No fuel in the oil (that I could smell).

15. Brand new Air filter installed.

16. ICP sensor is intact. Harness looks solid.

17. Fuel filter was replaced. Fuel appears clean.

18. Pressure not verified.

19. N/A

20. Oil fills filter housing.

21. ICP sensor rechecked. Getting 0.26 volts initially, then drops to 0.00. Remains 0.00 during cranking.

22. EGR deleted.

23. Not checked. No inductive ammeter.

24. Not sure what the Click test is. Unable to perform Bubble test as I have no assistant.

25. I see no issues with the harness.

26. No smoke. Not tested.

This leads me to believe that it is the HPO that is leaking somewhere. Since I didn't remove the HPOP when doing the head gaskets, I'm wondering if it's more likely that it's one of the stand pipes that's leaking rather than the STC fitting. The truck started fine prior to my head gasket work.

 

You have a HPO leak! Assuming you tested it right

you should have .8 like Alan suggested earlier at .019 thats to low

Verify that you are getting LPO at the oil filter housing and that the oil filter drainback isnt bleeding the oil off [the drainback is inthe bottom of the oil filter housing use a screwdriver and hold it down while someone cranks it over] You have a motocraft oil filter installed right???

Im betting that your problem is in the standpipes since you would have played with those to get the heads off
And if you go in that far to replace the standpipes you might as well do the Dummey plugs to as those are on the oil rails that are ontop of the injectors and you will be right there anyway and they have been known to cause a no start hot condition this way you can kill to birds with one stone so to speak

To be totaly Free of the problem and any nno start while hot which is VERY common on 05+ the STC fitting at the HPOP sould be replaced to. But you probably dont need to do this st this time its up to you as your problem more than likely lies in the stand pipes
If it were me Id do the standpipes and dummey plugs and see what happens you will probably be good to go then

 

IMO Benny and Alan have you looking in the right area (HPO system).

The next step I would think would be to do the air pressure check to find the HPO leak. It should be discussed in the no-start thread.

On second thought, you might want to pull the IPR and see if the screen is sucked in or has a hole in it. Then do the air test if the IPR looks OK.

 

Okay... I don't see a way to pull the IPR without removing the turbo. I'm guessing I'll have to tear this thing down to just the heads to solve this issue, which means pulling the evap core out again... Even my little girly hands have a hard time fitting in there.

My local International dealer says they have a bunch of IPR connectors. Any idea which part number I'd need? Mine has the little wire clip and is two conductor (I think).

Now I just need to find the correct fitting to pressurize the HPO system. Any suggestions? It didn't look like standard NPT threading.

 

Pull the Degas bottle and the FICM and you should be able to access the IPR. You will need a socket w/ a slot in it to remove it. A google search should help you out. Autoparts stores might sell one as well. Lots of folks have just bought a cheap socket and cut the slot themselves.

 

I have a Fram filter.

Is there a remote start tool for this truck? I work alone and at weird hours.

 

No sir... You won't have to go back there again unless something is horribly wrong with your reassembly. And, if that's your picture on your posts - I seriously doubt you have girly hands.

To get to your dummy plugs and standpipes, I sure you know by now that all you need to do is pull the valve covers and the oil rails.

The fastest thing to do will be to check your IPR valve first as Mark suggested. Then if still a no go, you'll do an air test to see where your leak is. I think you're right on in suspecting the standpipes. Most folks replace those when reinstalling. I think Ford says replace with new after removing.

 

There is a blue/yellow wire on the passenger side fender that can be energized to make the starter turn over.

 

If the truck didnt have any problems starting hot before this job. \

I doubt its the STC fitting. Check pull and inspect IPR

 

I think that your on to something here Mark

It would be the next thing I would check out

with Tyler the majoirity votes for it LOL

 

They say that and they are included in every OEM headgasket set but I've reused them several times. If the o-rings look good I reuse them but that doesn't mean they can't get FUBAR during install. An air test is relatively simple also.

I would also suggest checking the IPR valve before going any further on the HPO test. Without rereading the whole thread do you have a scanner?

 

His response earlier was -> I have a el-cheapo code scanner and a slightly less cheap scanner. The el-cheapo shows no codes, even after 30 seconds of KOEO. I haven't pulled out the other scanner since it buried in my toolbox somewhere.

 

Ahhhhh yes....that produced a P2285 when he pulled the ICP. Thanks for jogging my memory.

Time for an airhose and IPR valve check then.

 

I pulled the IPR (gotta love Fedex Overnight for an OTC IPR socket). The screen is intact, and aside from a few carbon flakes, it was clean. I haven't pulled it apart or anything, so I'm not sure what to look for besides that. The o-rings were in good shape.

I purchased an IPR connector and managed to connect my air line to the HPO rail through IPC port. I was expecting to hear air rushing, but head only a few burbles, and they sounded like they were coming from the rear driver side or HPO pump itself. I'm guessing the next step is pulling the driver side and replacing the standpipe and dummy plug, which should be easy. The passenger doesn't look possible with the evap core in place, but I'll give it a try. Is the standpipe toward the front on the passenger side?

On a whim, I picked up a new IPC, just in case the one I have is bad. I doubt that's the case, since it wasn't throwing codes, and because it still didn't start with it connected.

 

Stand pipes in back, dummy plug up front on both sides

If the burbles were coming from the turbo oil drain hole in the oil cooler cover, it's an HPOP leak usually. If its from the rear of the HPOP cover, STC fitting.

When you apply air and the energize the IPR (no more than 30 seconds!) you should hear the air 'leak' move from the IPR valve to the leak source.

I haven't done the passenger side, but from what I understand it is possible to remove the oil rail without removing the A/C box. Use a socket to push the standpipe out of the rail as you pull it out. BUT if you do not hear air coming from under the valve covers, your culprit is near the source of burbles. I love that word...