I decided not to fully grind the welds down flush for a little extra strength. I put down some POR 15, still needs seam sealer and top coat. I'm going with the rubber mat instead of carpet, so it will all be covered up anyhow. The hole for the shifter was oversized and missed all 4 bolts, the only thing holding it in was the outside edges of fender washers. I welded in pieces to make the hole smaller and had to redo the contour of the floor under the shifter as the shifter was for a different car (some more hammer and dolly work). I think I might be able to get back to the carb next week.

I really need to stop looking at things and just get it driving.






The Carter carb is a 4759S it's a competition series 625 CFM with the fuel inlet on the drivers side. The carb came and it's pretty corroded on the inside, I might try the glass bead cabinet if I can plug all the small holes, or maybe replace the glass beads with baking soda.

 

Dan glad to see you got the sections to work well. Good to see your progress.

 

Worked like a charm, Thanks again Jim.

 

James- this is all Jim's baby. I'm just an innocent bystander marveling at his success!

Looks really good, Jim! It's amazing how much better things look and work when you take the time to do it right. Makes you wonder why they didn't in the first place!?! So what else you got before you can get it on the road?

Oh- And be sure to post up some close-up pics of this carb, you've got my attention, as i've never seen one like this!

 

Jim/James is the one who sold me the floor sections to repair my panel.........BTW my name is Dan also .

No more pics to post yet, I'm just top coating the to POR15 on all the floor sections. The first carb came in and was pretty bad inside (ebay-sometimes you win, sometimes you lose), so now I have some spare parts and another carb on the way.



IF I don't find anything else that bugs me , I have to deal with the carb, put the floor back together, speedo cable is leaking, new fuel gauge not working, put the bumpers on (front one is new to my truck, adjustment is needed)....then drive. The engine still leaks, but the engine builder is going to fix it and then I can work out any bugs that come along. I still have to rebuild the 2.47 third member I have for it (it's a 3.00 right now), re-mount the shocks on the rear end (you got to see the set-up now) and swap wheels to the newly acquired stock inner bump 16x5 wheels after I paint them...........so more posts and pics to come.

 

Oh I feel like an idiot. So you are Dan... where did I get Jim from??? Anyways that should be an easy one to remember now!

Did a little searching on your carb. You sure that's a 625? I've seen it pop up a few times as a 500cfm. The primaries look pretty small in the pictures I've seen, compared to the 9000 series AFB 625s I have. But that's neat that the fuel inlet is on the driver's side. I didn't think of it much, but does the inlet on that side cause issues with the throttle linkage?

Doesn't sound like too harsh of a 'to-do' list. Fuel gauge might be a pain, if the tank is non-stock or the sender has been changed/screwed with. Could be just a minor wiring issue too though. you'll definately have to post pics of your shock setup... is it quite the feat of backyard engineering?? Why the drop to 2.47 gears? I had 2.47s in my '69 F100 and with the 351W and C4 i didn't like them, especially once i hooked a trailer to the truck. It was a real turd, even unloaded around town. I later changed the chunk out to a 3.00 and am MUCH happier with it. Yeah it might be a little higher in the RPM on the freeway, but in-town snappiness and fuel mileage definitely improved. Of course freeway mileage suffer a bit from that, but either I drive a little slower or just avoid the Hwy as much as possible. Granted you have a big block and i only had a small block, does make a difference there.

You scored 16x5 5 lug wheels? Wow those must be a real bear to find. Don't think I've seen many of them around, if any at all!?

Definitely post up some more pics, always enjoy seeing your progress.

 

Both the carbs have the tag on the front that says "Competition Series 625 cfm", I have another one the says 500cfm. From the numbers they're an early competition series (before Fedral Mogul took them over). I'm running the stock 5/16" fuel line and the carb is 3/8", so I have an adapter to go to 5/16 inverted flare and then another 90 deg adapter from inverted flare to 5/16" nipple......it goes right over the top of the linkage then down (I don't like all the adapter but it was needed).
Look close at the 1st picture:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...9&postcount=35

I was going to try the 2.47 rear like a poor mans o/d and I was thinking the torque of the 390 would be good enough around town. I'll still have the 3.00 to swap back in so I'll try it anyhow just for my info. The 16x5 inner bumps are HARD to find, hot rod guys are scooping them up but I found them 1 at a time .

 

Process a little slow, been getting this going.





Off topic I know, but I bought 13 cases of oil last year (it was 1/2 off at autozone + every 3 case was free from Valvoline). The plastic bottles seem to be seeping, the corners are getting soft and I didn't want the exxon valdez in my mom's garage. I figured if I was going to get an oil dispenser why not get one I wanted (read vintage). The guy I got it from used it as a waste oil container, so I had to clean it out....outside is going to stay the same with some minor degreasing.




More pics:

Made the large hole smaller, raised the channel flat and re-shaped the trans cover for the shifter.



After the floor was top coated and put back together, I'm going to go with the rubber mat instead of the carpet that was in it:



Close up of the fuel line over the throttle linkage, hokey but limited fittings for what I wanted (3/8 to 5/16).



Had to re-bend another PCV line for the Carter:

 

Nice work on the trans cover. Looks much better! I too am in the debate of using a rubber mat over carpet. Still kicking it around...

The fitting arrangement my be crude but sometimes you have to work with what you have. IIRC Holley makes a fitting that will screw into the fuel bowl that directly adapts to 5/16" fuel line (double flare). Now I don't know if Carter's threading is a match for ones that Holley uses for their side-hung float bowls.
What are you going to do for a trans kickdown? Or are you going to run one at all?

The PVC line turned out really nice though. Looking good man.

 

I'm foggy on fords, I think the C6 had a metal rod for a kick down. Nothing was on there when I bought the truck so more research is needed. I didn't think about Holleys, I went online and through parts books. I have an adapter to go from the Carter to a 3/8 inverted flare, then a 3/8 inverted flare to a 5/16 inverted flare adapter and finally a 90 deg 5/16 inverted flare to a 5/16 nipple. Also if you notice the liquid teflon tape on the threads, they were seeping so I had to "massage" the threads on the adapters and the liquid teflon tape was just in case .......and these where quality pieces from Edelmann.

 

Yeah sometimes you need to put a little more smoke on the brass fittings to get them to seat. Search the Holley fittings and see what you can find. Might get lucky.

Most all of fords kickdowns were metal rods. The one for your application would have been. The 60s brought on different combinations, some using a metal arm off the accelerator pedal connected to a cable that connected to a small short lever on the tranny. Your best bet might be going with an aftermarket setup like what Lokar would offer. However you're missing one important piece that is located on the carb's throttle shaft. There is a second arm that moves freely on the main throttle shaft inboard of the throttle arm itself on the same shaft. This is where your kickdown would connect to at the carb. Your current carb doesn't have it. There were Ford specific Carter AFBs (probably during the Federal Mogul days), as I have one on my '69 F100 right now. Edel-puke makes an adaptable ford kickdown assembly for their knock-off AFB line. You may be able to adapt it but where it locates the kickdown rod/linkage is grossly incorrect causing you to bend the crap out of your stock rod (if you had one). It's a piece of crap and may not work on your carb's throttle arm anyways. (designed for Edelbrock's throttle arm) I have seen replacement throttle shafts floating around for AFBs like yours that has the ford kickdown on the shaft in the correct orientation. They are tough to get tho. Holley makes one for their carbs and is easily and readily available. But doesn't do you much good...

You can run without one on the C4s and C6s, won't hurt a thing. You'll just have to manually drop gears if the vacuum modulator doesn't pick up on the load when you floorboard it. If you don't drive very aggressively, I can't see it being any kinda of an issue not running one.

 

Been driving it around and now I need to mess with the pushrod lengths, it's tapping. I put the bumpers back on, wired up an off road light under the rear for a reverse/work light and used a push/pull switch on the dash in place of the throttle cable to turn the light on.




Here's the next project maybe...........the rear shock set-up is a little shaky.

 

Wow, yeah I'd say the rear shock setup is a bit shakey. However... i see potential in an aftermarket swap/adapter bracket byway of using the axle's stock shock mounting brackets. Since these axles are a very popular swap into these trucks anyways...

What are you thinking of doing to correct yours?

 

The picture is when I first bought it, since I've replaced the tie plates and u bolts. I'm going to cut off the stock brackets and use the weld on ones from mid fifty. I was thinking of a way to use the stock brackets that are on the 9", but everything I was thinking of was way to much work for just 1 set.....maybe if I was to make some for sale . What you can't see from that shot is the angles are off, the bottom of the shock needs to go towards the rearend more.

 

Yeah i don't think that there was anything wrong with the u-bolts and plate that was on there. They are correct for the vintage of truck that the rear end was out of. Mine used them too, until I changed to the '57-'60 F100 u-bolts, plates, and shock mounts.