1956 F100 Crew Cab Project Started - LOTS OF PICTURES
#50
Well gang its been slow going the past month or so due to swap meets every weekend for about 5 weeks.
This springs swap meets were very good to me.
Door glass for all but two doors and a rear window, all new and for $50.00.
V-8 emblems, door mirror, door hinges(about a dozen), 15" trim rings, and some innie rims for parts.
Now that the swaps are over we are back in full swing working on the truck again.
The drivers side got some mud.
The drivers side antenna hole got filled in.
And the new emergency brake cable and extension hardware was installed.
This springs swap meets were very good to me.
Door glass for all but two doors and a rear window, all new and for $50.00.
V-8 emblems, door mirror, door hinges(about a dozen), 15" trim rings, and some innie rims for parts.
Now that the swaps are over we are back in full swing working on the truck again.
The drivers side got some mud.
The drivers side antenna hole got filled in.
And the new emergency brake cable and extension hardware was installed.
#51
#52
Normally I would have to agree with you in regards of the low strength aspect of your comment. However I have had great success using threaded rod for this application. Here is a spec sheet showing the shear strenght of threaded rod.
I used grade 2 Mild steel in 5/16".
#53
I'd have to do much more research, but from the numbers in your chart, I believe that is the shear strength of the rod itself, not the threads. Plus the chart doesn't specify the units. The strain on your rod is completely on the threads, so you should look up the shear (strip) strength of 5/16 NC threads in mild steel. The torque spec for 5/16 -18 #2 bolt is only 12 ft-lb. I may be wrong, but I expect the threads are cut in this grade material, not rolled, which makes them weaker and less resistant to corrosion, a problem given the location of this application.
When it comes to safety equipment I prefer to err on the conservative side.
When it comes to safety equipment I prefer to err on the conservative side.
#54
#55
We made some more progress this weekend.
check it out.
We repaired the front bed mounts.
After weeks of sanding and preping the drives side....
We finially were able to lay down some primer on the drivers side, the back wall panel, and the rear part of the chassis.
Painted the rear part of the chassis black.
While my buddie was laying down the primer I remembered we skipped over a patch on the lower door hem because I didnt have a patch panel.
So I deceied I could make one. What do you think?
Here is the hole.
The patch panel on the Left is the one I made, and the one on the right is the store bought one.
check it out.
We repaired the front bed mounts.
After weeks of sanding and preping the drives side....
We finially were able to lay down some primer on the drivers side, the back wall panel, and the rear part of the chassis.
Painted the rear part of the chassis black.
While my buddie was laying down the primer I remembered we skipped over a patch on the lower door hem because I didnt have a patch panel.
So I deceied I could make one. What do you think?
Here is the hole.
The patch panel on the Left is the one I made, and the one on the right is the store bought one.
#57
We just used some Dupont Gloss Black paint we had laying around.
By the time we finish painting the cab the Gloss on the chassis should be dulled down a bit.
#59
Yesterday was an eventful day.
All new brake lines, new rubber lines, new rubber line to hard line to chassis bracket, rebuilt the master cylinder, and bled the brakes, new fuel lines from pump to new rear chassis mounted tank, mounted fuel tank, all in one day.
And we still need to install the new emergency brake cable to frame brackets.
I didnt get any picture of the fuel tank installed,or the fuel lines to the tank, but I will when I intstall the new fuel pump, and the fuel filters, and rubber lines to connect the hard lines to the tank/pump.
ohhhhh... and yes those rusty crunchy shocks are going to be changed out, but not till the truck is almost road worthy. We just need to be able to yard drive the truck right now for positioning the truck in the garage and what not.
All new brake lines, new rubber lines, new rubber line to hard line to chassis bracket, rebuilt the master cylinder, and bled the brakes, new fuel lines from pump to new rear chassis mounted tank, mounted fuel tank, all in one day.
And we still need to install the new emergency brake cable to frame brackets.
I didnt get any picture of the fuel tank installed,or the fuel lines to the tank, but I will when I intstall the new fuel pump, and the fuel filters, and rubber lines to connect the hard lines to the tank/pump.
ohhhhh... and yes those rusty crunchy shocks are going to be changed out, but not till the truck is almost road worthy. We just need to be able to yard drive the truck right now for positioning the truck in the garage and what not.