I posed this question in the build thread I have for the truck also, but I figured I might get a more engine specific answer here.

I want to make sure I'm covered for my next little project.

I was debating to either rebuild the 2brl carb that's on the truck or go ahead and replace it with the 4brl Barry Grant and Edelbrock Performer 390 I have. Since I already have the 4brl carb, intake and associated gaskets I have decided to go ahead and rebuild the Barry Grant carb and install it with the Eddy manifold. I bought the parts for the intake and carb swap quite a while ago.

I get home in a couple days from work and want to dive into this so that I can get the truck running a bit better.

Please let me know if I am missing any major key points in the steps.
Set timing (take note of where the rotor is pointing)
Drain coolant
Remove distributor, valve covers
Loosen rocker arms (in proper sequence and one turn at a time)
Remove push rods (keeping in proper order)
Remove intake
Clean up all gasket surfaces
install new (to me) parts in reverse order using "Right Stuff" on ends of intake instead of cork gaskets.

I am considering replacing the water pump with a new one since I am already this far into it too.

Is there any special attention I need to pay to anything in the heads or intake galley area while things are apart.

I think I have read somewhere, but I can not remember where.
Is there a special place the timing should be set to to take the valve spring pressure off of the rocker arm shaft before loosening it?

Thanks for any imput provided

 

Sounds like you have it all in order... this is exactly what I'm in the middle of right now except I had to pull my heads.

Make sure you have the correct thermostat and thermostat housing gasket for that Edelbrock manifold and your stock water neck. I've read about people having a lot of fun with this. I'm not sure how the Barry Grant carb is set up, but I know there are significant issues sticking an Autolite 4100 on a Performer 390 manifold because of the vacuum passages in the underside of the carb. Massive leaks result. I know my Holley 4160 was OK on my Performer 289, but be aware.

If the engine has not been apart in a while, be prepared with a shop-vac to suck the filth out of the lifter valley under the intake and inside the heads. There are oil drains at the front and rear of the heads that drain back into the lifter valley, good idea to make sure they are clear while you have the valve covers off. I replaced my water and fuel pumps while I was in there, seemed like a no brainer. Also watch out for the oil pump drive shaft, its in the bottom of the distributor. Pray it does not drop into the pan when you pull the dizzy...

Good luck man!

 

I had been reading that in a few other threads that came up on my search for information. I will try and locate the proper t-stat and housing before I tear into it.

I think the Barry Grant is built more like a Holley, but I'll be sure to check it out.

It'll be a crap shoot on this truck, I have no knowledge of it's history. I'll prepare for the worst, but hope for the best. If the oil pump drive drops, it's not too big of a deal, as I need to replace the oil pan gasket too, at some point that is. I think it'll be cheap insurance to replace the water and fuel pumps too.

Thanks for all the heads-up's, I'm sure it'll all come in handy.

 

I always leave the distributor in the hole until I'm ready to pull the intake. It's a large hole making it easy for things (tools, dirt, etc.) to fall in. Other than that sounds like you have it all in order. There's no special rule when installing/removing rocker shafts other than to take it 1-2 turns at a time per bolt and go in order. Basically just making sure it's tightened/untightened evenly.

If you have non-adjustable rockers then you will have to check valve clearances, here's a good link to the process Valve clearance and lifter preload. You'll need Ford tool T58P-6565-A to bleed the lifters down if they are already pumped up.

It's real easy to set clearances with adjustable rockers. Set to "0" lash and back off 1/2 a turn.

 

Thanks Sleepy, I'll keep all of that in mind and good info in that article.

 

Sure, glad to help!

FWIW factory adjustables are pretty cheap and easy to come by. They'll also give you slightly more valve lift with the 1.76 ratio (as compared to the non-adj 1.73).