Hi guys. I know there is a lot of treads about this,but I still have some questions about this swap. First of all, my truck is a -97 F-250 crewcab shortbed 7,3 Diesel 4x4. It has a 4" liftkit thats includes new front leafs... no blocks.

A local yard has a -94 F-350 4x4 7.3 Diesel that they will sell in parts. That truck has twin rear tires,but I will only have the front axel.
BUT...that axel looks like its a lot wider then the F-250 ifs unit...is that a fact?
Can I use all the parts like brakes and rotors from the Dana 50 on the Dana 60?
If I can use that axel ,will it go with the 4" liftkit I got?
I know that I need to use all the parts from the steering,including the pitman arm from the 350.
I have only seen the 350 on pictures,and it looks like its have 8 lugnuts,is this the same pattern as the 250 or do I need to move all moving parts over to the 350?

Thanks

 

It is because it's got the DRW width front end. The hubs can be changed to the SRW version.


I believe that's a yes, but most likely you'll get the axle lockout to lockout, correct?

Something I just learned since I bought a Dana 60 this past weekend, the F-250 springs are actually stiffer than the F350 because the TTB setup acts like a lever against the springs. If your liftkit springs are specifically for an F-250 with a higher spring rate, they'll physically work, but you're probably going to experience an uncomfortably stiff ride.

Both the Dana 50 and 60 are 8x6.5 bolt pattern.

 

1. Use your rotors from the 50 - done deal. Spindles are the same.
2. Use the 60's hubs nuts etc as the factory autohub 50 ones wont work.
3. Brake parts will work if it is a bolt on caliper 60. Some years up to 94? I think were still the bushing pin type so in that case you would need the 60's calipers and hardware and pads.
4. You can probably use the lift springs but they will be the wrong rate for the solid axle. They will be stiff. The relocation drop brackets from the 50 lift wont be needed. You need to get the springs, trac bar and mount, sway bar brackets and links and sway bar from the 350 is the best plan and get lift springs or do a reverse shackle kit. I would also get the rear factory blocks if you use all the 350 springs that way everything is level etc.
5. You can use your existing pitman arm or replace the new one. I used my f250 one.
6. Lug pattern is exactly the same if you use your rotors.

 

Thanks guys for complementary answers.
But.... what does DRW and SRW means?

Next: Can you please explain what you mean with this : but most likely you'll get the axle lockout to lockout, correct?

Next: I know I got 3.55 in my truck, but what are the odds that the 350 got the same?

And,The hubs I got are not the factory autohubs, they are manual ones. I hope I can use those?

Sorry, but I am from Norway and I dont always follow you guys on all the tecknical terms.

 

DRW = Dual Rear Wheel

SRW=Single Rear Wheel

axle lockout to lockout = entire axle including locking hubs, brakes and all brackets including rotors.

I know I got 3.55 in my truck, but what are the odds that the 350 got the same?
Unlikely as most were 4.10 on 350's but in some cases I have seen 3.55.
My truck was 3.55 but I changed the rear end gears to match the front which was 4.10. At one time I had 3 of these front axles and all were geared 4.10 from the factory. You could look at the door tag for the axle code and look it up online of the F350 or check the rear end tag on the rear and see what ratio is stamped in it.

As far as manual hubs there is a chance your factory ones will work but My auto hubs used snap rings and a smaller retention system than the F350 locking hubs. I simply used the hubs from the donor axle.

 

Most of the F350s will be geared with 4.10 since the reason for buying them is for towing and 4.10s are better at that. That being said, if you manage to find a 3.55 axle, it will probably be cheaper than a 4.10 axle (edit: just saw you're in Norway; they're cheaper on Craigslist in the US, not sure what supply and demand is like over there) just because very few people are going to want to use the 3.55 gears for a stock swap. I managed to snag my Dana 60 with all the steering components, lockouts, new brakes & associated hardware, swaybar and links, and trackbar all for less than $800 because it was 3.55 gearing.

 

Thanks again
Since the 350 is a DRW and my 250 ia a SRW, and lets say the 350 has 4.10 gears, is it possible to make that 350 rear axel to a SRW?
I really dont need 4.10 gears. The truck is a daily driver and I do very little towing with it.
It is really strong as is,the dyno says 307 hp on the wheels and 710Nm. But it will cost me a lot of money and work to change the gears in front....so all in all, I maybe should consider both axels and suspension if that is possible to do ??

 

The rear is most likely a Dana 80. Regardless the housing for a Dual rear wheel truck is wider and cannot to my knowledge be converted without alot of hassle.

If you can find another F250 or F350 single rear wheel axle, which are typically Sterling / Ford made 10.25 geared 4.10 you will be in business.

I bought the gear kit and master rebuild bearing kit and it cost about $450 and I installed them myself.

 

Now. Something else to consider. Doing away with your 4" lift springs and bolting in a RSK(reverse shackle kit) it moves the shackles from behind the bumper to under the cab mount. This gives a better ride and gives you 2.5-3" of lift. If doing this you can move the RSK forward 3.5" and use Superduty(99-04) springs to achieve an even better ride than with stock springs. I have done several RSK in trucks. He is my most recent. 97 CCSB F250. Junked the worn out TTB Dana 50 and installed a rebuild D60 from a 95. A SKY RSK was used and mover forward 3.5" and a set of SD "V" code springs were used. a 5" rear block was used in place of the 2.5" block I gained 5" of lift total then added 35" tires
STOCK

RSK w SD springs

 

Thank you all for some really fine answers. I will visit the man with the 350 this week and se what he want for the front axel and all the bits.
Thanks for the tip regarding RSK....werry interesting But if I can go with the liftkit I got,I will use them. Really nice truck you have there Diesel_Brad. Just like mine, but mine are silver on black. Short bed. I will try to put out some pics off it.
Anyway, if I can get all this done,Im pretty sure its gone be the only 250 in Norway with a 350 frontaxel and thats is all thanks to you guys in this forum. Its not to many trucks in Norway,and to get used parts is not easy. They are to exspensive to import...the cars is taxed on the base of weight,engine volume and horsepower....so... big cars are exspensive. I got a link here from the biggest "cars for sale" site in Norway,so you can see how many truks that is for sale right now.

FINN Bil - Annonser - Brukte biler til salgs

 

Thanks for the insite. No right hand drive cars over there? I thought the USA was the only place that had Left hand drive

 

Its only England that use righthand drive in europe All the other countries have left hand drive.

 

Thanks for the tip

 

So...been at the yard today and got a deal regarding the parts. All the parts I will need is 3000,- Norwegian Kroner...thats 550 Dollars, and that cant be too bad.... ? BUT.. I mean that I got the "kingpin" type...the 350 got the "ball" type...can I still use the parts from the 250...like the manual hubs? But not the brakes?

 

That's a great deal. If I could buy a Dana 60 for $550 here, I'd get one just to put in my garage.

You can use the hubs but not the brakes. I'm surprised that a '94 has kingpins though. I thought they were all ball joints by '94.