First off, special thanks to Pete for this. I got the spread it around message, so everyone else, please rep him for me. Turns out putting new shocks on did wonders for improving my ride. Guess my old shocks were worne.


Well, I did remember this, and it does sound like a much easier idea, but for some reason, easier never comes into play when I get to working on things. While picking up an alternator at Oreilly's, I ordered the shock extensions and asked about some Rancho's. Was told Ranch doesn't make the shocks for my truck (If the Rancho guy is still reading this, you might want to send a memo to Oreilly's). I needed some other miscellaneous stuff from Rock Auto, and ended up buying some KYB Monomax front shocks from them for a very reasonable price (my rear Ranch 9000's are still working fine, and with rear air bags, I don't expect them to wear out anytime soon).

So today I start the install. First problem is shocks are fine thread, shock extensions are course thread. Switch gears and proceed with DIY shock extension using threaded coupler and automotive stud.



Looked simple and easy until I did the install and realized that my DIY extension was a bit too much extension. I thought about it and decided the extension length needed to be determined based on the position of the bottom isolator washer. Simply screwing an extension on the end of the threaded rod was adding too much length and taking away too much of the compression stroke. I measured my aluminum spacer blocks and came up with 1 3/4", so I broke out the tools and went to work.



Since we're adding threads, I elected to keep it simple and went with a course thread die. I ended up having to thread the entire shaft as well as cutting off a little over half an inch off the end of it to make it work.




With a bit cut off the end and the threads run all the way down, I was able to match the 1 3/4" of my spacer.



A little lock tite on the threads, the standard shock washer and rubber bushing fit on top of the shock extension, so it all went back together like a charm (except these new shocks are stiff and took some persuasion).

I still don't think this is exactly an easy fix, but this does give me the proper extension without the welding and grinding I had to do last time.

 

I didn't think I could, but I could, so I did.

Stewart

 

Hey fellas... Chris really needs a little love, too, for faithfully updating the thread with great pics and details. I tried myself, but I'm locked up right now.

 

Already tried that when I hit you, I got the "spread the love" message.

Stewart

 

OK... one more Old Thread Revival effort due to my own tendency to procrastination.

I have some new front rotors on order because the ones I had turned last fall are simply pulsating way too much. When I do the front rotors, its about time for new front shocks and I need to put this baby to rest for a while.

Chris... how are your KYB Monomax's holding up? If they are treating you well, I'm going to go the same route, but need to go ahead and order the shocks so they will be on hand when the new cryo'd rotors arrive in a couple weeks.

 

Still riding well I think Pete. Roads are getting worse though. I'll probably swap them out for new ones of the same brand after Christmas since it will be pushing 50k miles.

And yes the roads really are that bad. Last time I bought tires, they discovered I had warped one of the factory aluminum rims.

 

Wow... that makes for a rough ride potential and probably qualifies you as the Poster Driver for testing shocks! I'm going to go ahead and get a pair of front Monomax's on order, then. Thanks for the update.

UPDATE... just ordered. Free shipping. $112 for the pair of fronts from Shockwarehouse.

 

A little update for anyone considering doing this. Either use a lot of loctite, and use the red kind, or just go ahead and weld the shock extension on the shaft.

Truck was getting a little more bouncy this week and then Friday I hit a bump while pulling a 25' trailer and the front end bounced enough I thought the shocks were wore out.

Turns out the threads stripped out of the inside of the shock extension and one of the shocks came loose



Apparently a little blue loctite wasn't up to the task, and the threads on the shock extensions weren't either. The threads on the shock itself were fine.

The shock extensions are both welded in place now. The good news is, the shocks felt great when pushing on them and after a quick test drive, so it was a cheap fix at least.

 

Very timely update, Chris. Thanks. I have the shocks at the house with my cryo'd front rotors, and just have to get some more honey-do's done before Thanksgiving, and then I can repair my rattling and pulsating ride (I believe I have a broken front shock and I KNOW I have front rotor issues).

 

I'm finally getting around to planning this for Christmas vacation time. I've also discovered that my passenger side upper BJ is bad... with only one year of life and only about 20K miles. Something's up on that side, and there is a chance that I may have really damaged the spindle set up last year when I managed to run about 1/4 mile with the spindle nut being too loose!

Regardless, I've dug around some more on the shock extension issue, and there are a variety of lengths that can be had for both the hex extension nut and the automotive stud. In the process oflooking around, though, I also discovered something else regarding thread pitch and fine-vs-coarse threads.

It turns out that on the same threaded shaft of the same hardness and diameter, the fine threaded connection makes for a stronger joint as compared to the coarse threaded approach. The reason is that the angle of the fine threads is lower than that for the coarse threads, and that allows the nut/shaft connection to have more tensile strength because it is harder to pull against the flatter thread angle of fine threads. At the same time, you also have more cross-sectional area of uncut shaft diameter with fine threads which also helps with the tensile strength. Simultaneously, the shallower cut of the fine threads also helps the shaft maintain a stronger cross-directional strength.

That said, I plan to stick with getting fine thread components for the hex nut extension and the automotive stud... the final bolt/nut threads which extend through the upper mounting bracket will remain as coarse threads because that is the only thing I can find.

 

Chris:

Questions. I am assembling my parts, but there seems to be a mismatch in thread sizes between your parts and the ones I am accumulating.

1. The OEM threading on the KYB Monomax is 5/16-24, but the shock extender you purchased shows as being for a 3/8-16 thread. Hunh? How so? Or is there an incorrect link in your message?

2. I see where they offer both a fine and coarse thread pitch, but how do you get from 5/16" to 3/8" threads?


EDIT... After looking more carefully at your pictures, Chris, it appears that the solid portion of the stud on the shock may be large enough to support a 3/8" thread cut... is that how the situation worked out for you? I'll measure the studs on my shocks at the house when I get home tonight, but since I ordered the same shocks, they should be able to accommodate the same thread size you cut on yours.

I also did a little more research on the strength comparisons for fine versus coarse thread connections. It looks like the maximum "pull out" strength increases by a factor of anywhere from 2x-4x by using fine threads, depending upon the grade of steel used, and that is when comparing threaded coupling nuts of the same length. Obviously, you can compensate for the weaker pull out strength of coarse threads by using a connection that is longer, but it would have to be anywhere from 2x-4x the length of the fine thread connection to obtain the same pull out strength. Granted, the coarse threads are easier to come by, but when available, the fine threads offer a stronger connection.

 

Pete, it's been a couple of beers since I did this, but looking back through the thread, someone else posted the link. I did go to Oreilly's and order the shock extensions. I did have the course vs. fine thread issue, but don't recall the shank diameter difference.

If the shocks are 5/16", then I got a 5/16" extension. I do remember having to fight the die over the fine threads to get it re-threaded and then threading the smooth portion of the shaft. I thought that was safer than trying to convert the inside of the extension into fine thread since I was cutting the ends off the shock anyway and knew I would have good threads on the smooth portion.

Of course what I did failed, so take what I say with a grain of salt. The welder did seem to fix my issue though.

 

Well, Chris, they don't have 5/16" extensions... just the 3/8" ones in both 16 and 24 thread pitch.

I've also learned something else... if you use a low temperature and long cooking time, along with some strong herbs and red papper, crow really doesn't taste so bad when you have to eat it.

I remembered wrong... the studs on my shocks are 3/8"-24... I don't know where I got the 5/16" from.

Anyway, I have no doubt that it was a fight to get the fine threads converted to coarse threads... must have been a little frustrating. Anyway, now that I've confirmed the 3/8" diameter, I'm going to order the 3/8"-24 pitch extenders and see if they hold up any better than yours did. At least I don't have the "rough road" stresses that you do, so maybe that will work out just fine for me.

 

Well it has been over a year since I last read this tread and it sounds like you guys have put alot of time into getting your shocks figured out with the leveling kit. I'm glad you found a shock that will work for your trucks. Good job!!
But this is one of the reasons I have stayed away form the front leveling kits. I would like to try to restore stock ride height on my F350 2wd with some replacement springs. It doesn't seem like many guys go with the different 2wd springs that are out there. But after looking at cost I can see why.

Chris do you remember what springs you used when you replaced yours and do remember how much that restored your ride height?

 

There's a thread about it around here somewhere, but I replaced them with stock springs from Ford. My ride height had sagged something terrible. The new springs only brought it up just a hair.

According to the measurements in the Ford manual, it took the leveling kit to get my ride height back within spec, but I'm at the top end of the spec and it does sit a little higher up front than it used to.

I did talk to a spring shop and they said they could build me some new coils at whatever height I wanted and account for the ranch hand bumper I had up front. I really wish I would have gone that route, but that's water under the bridge now. I've fought with this too much to start all over again now.