I admire your self-control and plan. But let me mention one thing to you. You're as close right now to lifting that cab just enough to get the frame rails under it as you will be. My buddy did almost a complete frame off restoration about a year ago. He unbolted the cab and lifted it up a few inches so that he could hit the frame rails. I'd hate to see you go through the trouble of re-mounting that front clip only to remove it again when you lift the cab.

 

When it is time to do the V8/Auto swap I plan on taking the front clip, cab and bed off so we have lots of room to do the mounts and cross members. I HATE laying on my back working underneath a vehicle.

The reasons for doing it in stages every winter are budget and I have 4 daughters that I need to teach about all the systems involved in a vehicle (hydraulic, mechanical, etc.) so the more we work on the truck the more they will know first hand.

 

Here is my 52 with IRS, 302 & C4.
I used the angle kit motor mounts and it worked out great with the radiator in the stock location in the front two mount holes.
7" x 15 wheels
I have a rebuilt floor master cyl. I took out I don't need.



Bill

 

Jeff, have you thought about using the side mounts on the 215 and fabricating the brackets?

 

I may do that if the '52 cross member mounts don't work. Do you know if they will fit in and bolt into the '49 frame or will I have to drill?

 

They may not fit because the 52 front engine mounts are angled slightly differently and, thus, are mounted in a wider position than the 48-51 mounts on the front crossmember. To mount the 52 front engine mounts on the 48-51 frame, will require replacement of the front crossmember as well (if I remember correctly).

 

Well, I got the '52 engine mount cross members and they do fit my '49 frame and front cross member. Hooray!

I also got the front end off the frame so the frame is stripped from the cab forward.



I also tore apart the front springs and removed 5 of the 8 leafs, keeping the two longest and the second shortest, making it similar to the way my 2000 F250 leafs are. If the ride is too soft I can always add leafs back in.

As you can see, I do need new spring eye bushings.



I am now in the process of taking the best components from my original front axle and the donor '52 front axle to make the best one.

I am slowly making progress, but it sure is fun!

 

Did you say slowly? Looks and sounds like your doing great! I think we'd all get more done with our "toys" if it weren't for those blasted house chores we have to do as well.....

Lookin' good Jeff!

 

Thanks. Today I ordered my first new parts. I couldn't find the leaf spring bushings locally, so I ordered 4 from Mac's Antique Auto Parts. Although this is a budget build I know there will be some parts I have to get new and the price wasn't bad (all 4 for less than $16). Mac's has a minimum order of $20, so I had to add a reprint of the '49 F1 sales brochure and a Ford hat.

I am still doing well as far as budget goes. Last week I sold my extra-extra (#3) tailgate for $100, and we only paid $25 for it.

 

You didn't get the spring bushing kit? It has the sleeves, pins, grease fittings and the tapered bolts w/all hardware. Your pins are liekly worn judging by the shape of the sleeves.

 

the cab and doors look great , what satin black paint did you use ?

 

The pins actually look good and I have plenty to choose from thanks to my donor parts.

Krylon Satin Black, which is what I have been using since I was a kid in the '70's. The frame and under parts are Krylon Semi-flat black, which is durable and I have a bunch of cans that have been following me around for about 15 years!

 

Well it has been a while since I had anything to put on here, but I finally finished running new brake lines, installing the rebuilt master cylinder and cleaning/painting the steering box and column.

Here's the master cylinder. Yes, I buffed the brass distribution block even though nobody will ever see it. It is the detail work that soothes me the most. I also soldered new terminals on the wires because I don't ever want to be under there trying to find a bad connection. The hole in the floor board is from a fuel selector valve that I removed.



I decided to do away with the bracket that the brake line and front brake hoses meet. I drilled out the upper bracket mounting hole and will run the brake hose into it for a cleaner look. This is the driver side front frame rail.




Here's the steering box. I think it had about 5 pounds of greasy crud on it. I did run the mounting bolts from the outside of the frame for a cleaner look. They were the other way from the factory. I just have to get some cotter pins in there.




I've been doing a little each day and WOW does it feel good to spend some time working on her.

The best part is when I'm laying under the truck trying to figure out how I want to run brake lines and one of my daughters starts asking what different parts are.

Next will be re-bushing my front springs so I can get the front axle back in. I ordered the bushings from Mac's and I think they are sending them by pack mule because they won't be here for another week! Oh well, there is still plenty of cleaning and painting to do on the front axle.

 

Jeff, You should not run the line through the frame like that. Use the "thru frame" connectors. Thats not safe due to rubbing/vibration.

 

It won't be like that when it is hooked up, it is just waiting for the hose. The hose will be hard mounted to the frame so there won't be any movement. Once I get the front axle cleaned up and mounted I will put up some more pics so you can see what I mean.