Sorry to bump an old thread....

The solenoid in my truck is acting up and not releasing the EBPV when under acceleration. My truck is a 2001 with 250k on it, it leaks some oil.... but show me a Ford that doesn't. Since I don't care about oil leaks can I not just disconnect the rod from the valve, wire it open, leave the solenoid plugged in and call it a day?

 

Don't worry about bumping old threads, we don't mind.

Shouldn't be a problem to do what you want to do. Just make sure the rod isn't going to bind up somehow with the lever arm for the valve. Maybe unscrew the end part off the rod so it has extra clearance.

 

I wonder if I even have to disconnect the rod, could I just wire it open... It's hard to tell from the pictures I've seen but is the coil spring a "return spring" to bring the EBPV to the normally open position?

 

Yes it is in the normally open position. When the solenoid closes oil fills the chamber and pushes the rod out closing the valve. So yes it would have to be disconnected.

 

Ok, thanks for your help.

 

how about welding both those holes in the actuator chamber closed? THen leave the chamber open and not fool with the plug where the rod goes through the casting. Or did I miss something?

 

The drain hole in the actuator chamber is to big to weld and is also the same drain for the turbo so you can't weld it shut. Only the little hole that feeds oil to the chamber can be welded shut and that is what I did.

 

I understand that the early 99 pedestals are lower and that there isn't enough room for the later unit to be installed.

As always, when you change something you have changed everything.

 

tig'd



jb weld

 

Nice! I hadn't thought of cutting off the reservoir and welding it in. Did you check and make sure the two oil passages for the turbo are clear and good yet?

 

You cant see from the pic, but we built up the area on either side before closing it. That way I could be sure the passage wasnt blocked. I still cleaned out the passages afterwards and it flowed real well.

 

Sorry guys, this thread has me confused. My only real question is, if I go with a van turbo and the outlet adapter (which eliminates the ebpv butterfly valve), and also add a non-ebpv pedestal, do I still have to worry about plugging holes and whatnot? Sorry for the dumb question, and thanks for the help.

 

No. You do not have to plug holes or weld anything up if you do what you say.
I went a little cheaper and cut my EBP Valve out and used a piece of the original rod to weld up the hole in the outlet of the turbo(cast steel side). I purchased a blank pedestal from dieselorings.com for 122$ plus shipping. I guess I only had to pay for the pedestal, a turbo reinstall kit and I purchased a new oring for the aluminum casing around the wheel and a new oring for the outlet of the turbo(aluminum side).

 

What size tap would you use for the oil jets to the actuater?

In doing that, there's no need to plug the actuater rod hole, correct?

And 1/4 npt for the butterfly valve rod?

 

You still need to plug the actuator hole because it is a still an open route to the oil pan/crank case.

I am not sure on the size tap for the butterfly arm hole, I welded mine shut.

For the jet hole to the chamber any small tap you have would work, just make sure you have the matching drill bit and screw/plug/bolt. Another thought is possibly use a small punch in a few spots around the jet hole might close it up as well.