Yes plugging the little "jetted" hole in the actuator chamber will cut down on oil starvation to the turbo.


Unplugging the solenoid does nothing to prevent oil starvation to the turbo. The oil "jetted" passage is still open and flowing oil to the actuator with the solenoid unplugged.

Oil is constantly flowing out the "jetted" passage in the chamber. The solenoid cuts off its drainage passage which in turn fills the actuator chamber and pushes the actuator which in turn closes the EBPV. When the actuator is gutted (eliminated) the "jetted"oil just flows threw the chamber and back to the oil pan much like it did before the gut. When the solenoid is activated nothing different will happen in the chamber, the oil will still be flowing in the "jetted" passage, threw the chamber and back to the oil pan just like it always did.

So highlights:

Oil always flows threw the chamber.

Leaving the solenoid plugged in does nothing but keep the check engine light off

Plugging the "jetted" passage might raise oil flow to the turbo but for sure will take away a "leak" in the oil feed to the turbo. The oil "leak" is always flowing even when in stock form.

 

I am still trying to figure out if I want/need to do this or not. The only benefit is lower EGT/s??
How much lower are we talking?? Is the only other reason to save a few bucks on a rebuild??? If so I would rather spend the money and do it right. How will I know if it needs rebuilt or eliminated?
What is the down side to just buying a non ebpv pedestal if I do want to eliminate the valve??? Will a non ebpv pedestal still render lower EGT/s??
Alot of ?s I know, Just trying to figure it out after seeing so many people are doing it.
thank you

 

The EBP pedestal does nothing for lowering EGTs. It is the removal of the EBPV (flap) in the exhaust outlet housing that rids the path of this restriction. The pedestal gut mod, or non-EBP pedestal, is simply a companion to the EBP Valve removal. I hope this helps anyone confused by its purpose.

 

i did this mod about two years ago without plugging the oil passage. i just taped and plugged the rod hole. does this mean that i will be buying a new turbo soon???? what would rob the oil to the turbo if chamber is filling with oil ??? really confused

 

WOW maybe I will figure out one of these days, or just leave it alone until i get my early to late conversion and worry about it then

 

Here are some instructions I used when I did mine: Gutting the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ

You still have to either get a non ebpv pedistal or gut and plug it.

 

Maybe I missed something so are we doing this only to lower EGT/s??? or is there another benefit?

 

I did mine to stop a oil leak in the ped, but did not know there would be a issue with cooking the turbo from what i understand

 

NO you will not toast your turbo. When doing the gut with just the plug where the rod went threw you aren't changing the oil flow to the turbo at all from what it was stock. Only if you plug the oil passage (jetted passage) to the actuator chamber it may raise the oil flow to the turbo slightly from what it was stock. Using the non-EBPV pedestal would essentially be the same thing as plugging the jetted passage to the actuator chamber.

 

SWEET, thanks for the responce I will sleep better now. I am a bit slow with O.C.D. not a good combo.

 

Gotta love the forums - they save me so much money. Less than 20 min. (Once I got it out) to do this. Pretty good for saving $100+ for either the rebuild or a non EBPV. I had a bunch of set screws sitting around so popped them in and it looks like a factory job. I would recommend doing this to anyone, especially if you already have things apart, it will save you trouble later on.
I'm getting good at this now - Pulled and reinstalled the turbo 3 times this week. The second time I thought sure I had it together for good and took it for a short test run. 3 miles later I stopped to find a steady stream of oil running down off the back of the engine !!! That is what will starve your turbo of oil. Glad I caught it then or I would have been in for the second new turbo in a week.

 

I was also unfcomfortable in gutting the cavity and leaving the passages open, but i did things a little different. I made a blanking piston up with two oring grooves, made it to a length that it wouldn't be moving back and forth and of course drilled and tapped where the rod was coming out. it's been eight months now, no leaks and no problems. Just wired the butter fly open, it will be getting removed soon for an ehaust brake in it's place.

 

That was mentioned when I was doing mine and I do have the lathe to make the plug. But the welder was closer and it took less material to get the job done.

But I agree, if you have the means to turn up a plug that would work as well.

 

Did you take a pic of your finished plug, I would like to take a look at it. I think I would be more comfortable doing that, as I also have the lathe.

 

I'm sure I did, but I couldn't find it. It was a while ago, but the more I think of it, it had one oring groove and two lands. The area between the two lands was under cut so the two lands were locating. The oring is in the land closest to the actuator hole, the rear land covers up the two ports that share the same radial plane. The piston was sized for two thou clearance on the diameter, so there will be a very small negligeable leakage between the two ports. I was in a hurry, so just threw a nitrile oring in, but viton would be way better. I'll post a picture if I find it.