Just curious, since you guys are helping me figure how to get the cab off, what type of stand (preferably a rolling stand), did you put your cab on once it is off the frame. Please show pics or plans if you have any....all suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance. Phil.

 

I used a pallet. some 4x6 and some casters from harbor freight..

I used a section of allthread to hold the corners together.

here is a pic with the cab sitting on it..

oh., make sure to get at least 2 locking casters.. this rolls pretty easy
u need the 4x6 to get the pallet high enough to allow your engine hoist under the stand.. else its a pain get the cab on/off

Sam

 

I opted for new 2x4s, a little glue, and some deck screws. I am not sure which version this one in the photo is but each time you build one (I think I am up to about #6) you improve upon it. I like everything on this dolly with the exception of the wheels, pneumatic tires don't want to swivel unless they are at a high air pressure. I use the larger (6 inch I believe) hard rubber casters now and they work great. I have found that using two non-swivel casters on one side makes the dolly a bit more stable...

 

Hey Phil,
One area to think through is the cab bracing. We just took the cab off & put in on a pallet without bracing it up - I guess it was in bad shape so it kind of sagged just a bit over time. We had it off for a couple of months. It was a major PITA to get it back square again - involving hydraulic jacks, etc. You may want to ask Sam & others how they brace their cab before taking it off - you will avoid a lot of unnecessary grief.

Ben in Austin

 

Here's one I built a while back.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ler-stand.html

 

My dolly is designed to mount to the stock cab mounting pads. Since these cabs are made to "move" on the frame I would say that your cab must have been in pretty bad shape to sag just sitting there. Bracing should never be needed...

 

mine had a 4x6 across the cab both front and back. so good support

I replaced the front cab floor and angled firewall section on this support..
(I did weld a crossbrace to the door posts first.)

Sam

 

I'm a big fan of bracing - It's all about what condition your cab is in - Your's is beautiful - mine not so much - that's the reason we had to take it off to address things. One pic below is the inside cab corners that were "holding up" the cab floor & their new replacements. The other pic is inside the driver's side footwell - had to add some bracing. If you have any question about the condition of your cab structure I'd try to keep it braced while moving it around.

Ben in Austin

 

very true!.. good advice

Sam

 

There's one big problem with bracing...what geometry are you attempting to preserve? If the cab is tweaked to begin with, and many are right from the factory, then bracing merely preverves the misalignment. Cabs that are structurally unsound, either through rusted panels or panels that have been removed, need to be squared prior to assembly. If a person prefers to square the cab first, then brace to hold the dimensions, and then complete the repairs then that is great. OR you could remove the failed panels and square the cab as the repairs are made...this is much easier than trying to force the cab into square with porta-powers, etc. Before my cab was "beautiful" it looked like this...(see pic) as I replaced the floors and rockers I squared the cab. These cabs are made to "float" on hinged arms in the rear and rubber pads in the front...if they don't have their own structural integrity without bracing then they will never have it.

 

Wow!! Just the info that I've been needing guys....you all are the best. Thanks and keep the ideas coming, I'm never too old to learn...lol.

 

Should I remove the window glass before or after taking the cab off the frame? Or would it matter, although I don't want to break the glass, it is original and will be reused.

 

It's always best to get the glass "out of harm's way" first. It also makes the cab lighter and easier to handle.

 

That's what I was thinking CharlieLed. Glass WILL come out before I remove the cab....just in case.

 

I really would like to see the dimension for this as a plan to build off. This is one of the best I have seen.