I have a 20 year old F150 with factory forged aluminum wheels. The clear coat is still on the wheel -but the clear coat is cloudy. If I wet the wheels-the clear coat becomes clear again-until the wheels dry and then the cloudiness comes back.

This leads me to believe that the cloudiness is on the surface of the clear coat. What polish will remove the cloudiness but not harm the clear coat?

 

I've had several sets of similar wheels over the past 20 years and I've never found anything to permanently fix the cloudiness (some products will make it less obvious, but then the volatile chemicals end up going away and you're back to square one).

Here's a website that discusses how to remove the clear coat and polish the rims. BUT then you still need to either keep wax on them or re-apply some kind of protective finish (probably some other websites out there that discuss that, maybe after you polish them, a body shop can re-spray them with some high-performance clear urethane). Bare polished metal just doesn't hold up for very long on wheels, especially with brake pad dust getting on them.

Wheel Refinishing

 

If you are OK with a brushed aluminum look, try removing the clear (I have had mixed results with oven cleaner - get the nastiest, smelliest kind). Then using a synthetic sanding pad ("Scotchbrite") on the wheel. Our local paint store sells an off brand that I think works just as good as the 3M stuff at just over 1/2 the price. While this will leave the parent metal exposed to the elements, it is not very labor intensive to run the pad over the rims every few times you wash the truck. This is how I keep my old 5 slots looking respectable.

 

This is what I use....It actually removes the yellow/orange oxidation of rust also....(The kind that gets on chrome...Not the rough, scley stuff)...

Its AWESOME...

Aluminum Polish - 16 Oz Bottle | AW Direct

 

Phoneman,
I had the exact issue with my Aluminum Wheels. Wet they looked good ,but dry they were cloudy. You are correct that the problem is in the clear. I used the same method to fix mine that I use to fix clear coated Brass Fixtures,lights, door hardware. I used steel wool & water to prepare the surface so I can clear coat them. Start with course steel wool to remove the top coat , then move to finer 000 , then finish with 0000 grade. I then rinse and dry them.They MUST be completely dry. Then I used clear Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DE1636 and got good results.



[IMG]https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/picture.php?album

You could also try Dupli-color Wheel paint clear HWP 103. If you wish although I have not used it yet. I thought the clear Dupli-Color Engine Enamel would hold up better and so far for 4 years they still are clear. It is some work but less than shelling out $$$.$$ for new wheels. Hell, I still have to shell out $$$ for gas , But now that's another issue.

Just my 2cents,,,,,,, '92

 

I'm not sure what the best thing to use is. I think I would treat it like paint not a bare metal wheel.

 

Yes, you are correct TexasGuy. That is what I mean. Just treat the clear on the wheel as you would when you color sand paint to get out orange peel . Then put on a few coats of clear. What I found is that if the clear that is now "cloudy "on the wheel before you start is also thin or you go through it ,,,, When you use the steel wool down to finer 0000 grade it does buff the wheel. Now when it is cleared with a few coats it will blend with the clear coat that is left on the wheel from (clear sanding) with the steel wool. Do not remove all the clear coat just like you do not remove all the paint in color sanding.
I use this basic method to do Aluminum & Brass hardware,and to save or re-finish furniture that has clear polyurethane or lacquer damage.
It worked well on the Aluminum Wheels that the clear is cloudy with no shine,,, as "Phoneman said", (" the wheels-the clear coat becomes clear again-until the wheels dry ")
Mine had the same issue. It did my cloudy Aluminum wheels w/rivets great. Of course if the wheel has curb rash or pitted or other damage. Then this method will only get sub-par results in the clear . No pun intended. I'm just old and poor Best to Ya '92

 

I think what Black Nite is saying will yeild good results.

 

What most people misunderstand, is that the "Shiny" areas of metal are simply reflections of light....A finer and finer grit sand paper, the "Shinier" the wheel gets...The coarser the grit, the "Duller" the wheel gets; To an extent.....


So personally, I vote for the strip/reclear idea....

 

I stripped, cleaned, polished and painted the proper areas and clearcoated a set of fox body Mustang turbine wheels years ago. I used some clear coat made for wheels that was in a Ford can. They looked good for a long time.

 

Thats one common ground we will ALWAYS agree on...FoMoCo made stuff....Seems to make everything....Better...lol