Installed a PopNLock ( model PL8250 )on my truck today.
The instructions that come with the popnlock arent the greatest and I think the wiring colors were wrong for my model year.
Here's my write-up for a 2011 F150 Crewcab WITH backup camera but NOT WITH the tailgate step (not sure if that matters).
I recommend that you make sure the actuator works, and the wires you will be installed are good. I had no issues with mine, but I think its a good step.
1) Take the access panel off the tailgate - You'll need a #30 torx
2) Remove the 2 10mm nuts from either side of the lock mechanism, and open the scissor clips to let the rods free so you can move them out of the way. I didnt find the need to remove the unit like the directions said. You are going to place the popnlock on the post of the right side of the handle. It snugs in there. Also, the PopNLock is in a nuetral position so lining it up is not an issue. Reinstall the nuts (the locking nut that came with the kit DID NOT fit, so I used the factory nut). Reinstall the rods. At this point, I'd carefully test that everything is in working order as far as the rods having the correct amount of travel to release the gate from the close position, and I also was paranoid and tested to make sure the key still works (nothing jammed).
3) As for wiring the tailgate - not critical which wires you choose because it can be tested later, but I'd recommend matching the Drk blue wire to the actuator to the brown wire on the shorter of the 2 supplied wires (I didnt go this route, but this selection will make later wiring more logical later). Hold off on crimping the connectors to the actuator (we'll do this at the end of the install).
The point of this tailgate lead is so you can unplug it to remove the tailgate. Think about where you want the disconnect to be. I snaked the wire through the hole in the bottom of the tailgate using a straightened wire hanger and it wasnt too hard to get it in place.
4) Run your main wire from the tailgate to whereever you are going to wire in your leads from the interior. I think its best to follow the exact path of the wires already there along the frame. Start by plugging in the quick disconnect between the tailgate lead and the main wire, and you can start securing the wire to the frame, starting a the rear and moving forward. But don't zip tie it in more forward than the passenger door - wait until your settled on where you're running your wires into the interior. As for the final destination, a lot of people like to use the hood release grommet. I preferred to us a direct route to under the kick plate.
5) Remove the driver door kickplate . If you can get that cheapo trim tool set from Harbor freight, its worth the 8 bucks or whatever it is. The $40 professional ones are nice too. Carefully pry up the kick plate and release the 2 clips that are closest and parallel to edge of the body.
6) Go hunting for wires!
Can't say about other models, but this is for a 2011 F150 crew.
I didnt find any information on what color the passenger keyless wires were, so I used the below which will make the tailgate unlock on THE FIRST UNLOCK KEYPRESS. I would have preferred it on the 2nd keypress but it doesnt make that much difference so long as I dont need to use my key.
The wires you want are GRAY with Brown Stripe and LIGHT BLUE with Light Green Stripe.
7) If possible, test the unit now to A) make sure you have the right wires and B) make sure the wires are not reversed. If you followed my recommendation for the wiring in step #3, the blue wire goes to the LIGHT BLUE w/ light green stripe and the brown wire will go to the GRAY w/ Brown stripe wire. And just for the record, this will not match my future pictures but I think this wiring makes more sense than what I did. This is not a critical step, so if you plan on using those crush-splicer things, even if the wiring is backwards we can correct it by swapping the wiring in the tailgate. Also, remember if nothing happens, its possible the temporary connection at the tailgate may not be good enough - check those.
8) Once you have the wires identified, choose your route into the cab. Run your splices through the hood release grommet, or whatever plan you have. I took the screw out of the plastic body connector holding in the wire channel. I ran the wires through what the screw formerly occupied (its a little bit of work but both wires will fit snugly. If you had a rubber grommet that fit, that may work too, but the hole itself is sharp so the wires need some kind of protection). As for the future missing screw, I personally dont think that channel needs the support.
9) Complete your wiring. (As you can see I am a little nutty using terminals and home-made Y connecters). Do another test.
10) Crimp the connectors in the tailgate (after you are sure it LOCKS when you press lock, UNLOCKS when you press unlock).
11) Reinstall your tailgate access cover.
12) Secure your wires along the body. Below is the wire going into the area under the kick panel.
Thanks for the great writeup, unfortunately things are not going smoothly for me. I have a 2012 F150 supercrew with keypad and rear camera. I followed your instructions, but ran into some odd problems. When i connected the servo mechanism to the Lt Blue w/ Green stripe and Lt Gray w/ Brown stripe the vehicles locks continually unlock or lock. Nothing happens with the servo. I get the exact same result if I simply connect the two wires straight together (without the servo). I did test the servo on the battery - it works fine. Not sure why it reacts as if it is being shorted - any ideas would be helpful!
I tested in the passenger and driver side - same result. The passenger wire had numerous gray/brown wires - again, some result. Not sure if something is wrong with my servo?? how would i test?
If I recall right...there may be 2 of the gray /w brown stripe wires in that bunch...one fatter than the other. I think I used the skinnier one.
I have the keypad and the camera but I don't know if the wire colors changed for 2012. I wouldn't think so though.
I tested a few of the different wires. I don't understand how when i hook up the device, the vehicle reacts the same as if I connect the two wires straight together; the blue/green and gray/brown (forms a short of some sort i assume).
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