Hello everyone.I finally got rid of my ole blue bitch (1988 F150) and bought a "new to me" 2002 F150 4x4 with 125,000from my uncle. I love it! It had the check engine light on for 80,000 miles. He's QUITE the exagerater. WIth all that being said, it was throwing a lean code and the culprit was the FPR. Ok, my truck runs great, has for 3mo, no codes no nothing. The question I have is the reccomended oil is 5w-20. When I changed the oil, this is what I used. I always throw a can of lucas in it for good measures. It seems in the cooler temps, around 50-60 degrees, which ain't even really "Cool" that just on a start up, it seems to tick for a few seconds. Not knock, not clank, just tick. Almost as slight as an air tick, but when the engine warms, it goes away. This tick, only usually last for no longer than a couple of minutes. I was wondering, if it would hurt if I would change to 10w-30 oil if this would help/hurt? I doubt it, but I was just wondering. I would like your insight on all. I don't want debate, just answers and experience. Thank in advance!

 

If what you are hearing is indeed a oil related/cold start ticking, changing to a heavier oil would only amplify that condition. Also note, that oil pressure is used for tensioning the timing chains in the modular engines. Although some may disagree, heavier oils may accelerate the wear of tensioners. Personally, I use 0w-30 in our truck with success during boating season, a 5w-30 may work as well in the summer. Having said that, typically winters here a somewhat mild...

 

Save your money by not putting any more oil additives in and stick with 5w20. Your tick could very well be piston slap and no kind of oil or additive will fix that.

 

Piston slap?

 

Go back to the reccomended 5w20 and use a Motorcaft filter all year around.
....Use no additives and especially not for good measure.
....The cold 5 weight part allows the oil to get to the valve train faster as well as the cam chain tensioners. This keeps chain related noise down at starting as well as reduces long term wear.
....Using heavey oils and viscosity additives causes excess wear on the chain tensioners as well as slows cold oil circulation.
....You have to abandon the old type thinking about engines and oils.
....Your already seeing the effects of doing it.
....This engine design is completly different than a push rod engine.
....Do not take the position, the factory reccomendation can be improved upon with other oils and additives.
....These engines are running over 200,000 miles on 5w20 as compaired to engines of 20 years ago for an average, on factory reccomened oil.
....You got my insight from knowledge and experience. There will be no debate from here.
Good luck.

 

My knowledge from being into modular mustang racing is this. 5w20 is good, 5w30 is good, no more than that. You can run a 0w of either of those. In fact having talked to a few mustang engineers, the motor is designed for 5w30 but 5w20 is recommended for emissions reasons. I personally run Amsoil 5w30 in my modular. Never use additives. I finally got my buddy to stop using Lucas and he was like "Wow, it revs faster and doesn't tick".