First off, I have a v6 2001 escape that runs very rough right after start up, both low rpm but almost a pulsing where it goes from very low to normal and then low again and then once you start moving has some hesitation that gets better as it warms up. However once it starts getting cold outside, as it is now here in Michigan at least in the morning, even once it warms up it stutters/jerks if the rpm range is between about 1200 and 2000 rmp but say at 50 mph if i turn off O/D so that the RPM's jump into the mid 2000's it goes away. All of the plugs where changed about 2 years ago or about 20,000 miles and I am pretty sure all the wires were done as well as one of the coils was replaced. it is acting similarly to when one of the coils was bad but not the same, what options do i have to check for bad coils other than swap them out for new ones?

next question

So this escape has struts in the front and shocks in the back right? I have seen shocks listed on part sites for front and back but only seen struts listed for front, is this normal or am i missing something like they are interchangeable which i didnt think they did. Also are they different for each side or same part left or right? As i have seen one number listed for right and one for left on one model then another model that has the same for both sides. Also as I am probably going to have to be changing these any recommendations for brand or location to get them?

thanks,

John

 

on my 2006 v6 there are struts on front and shocks on rear. What I did was go to advance auto and I bought monroe quick struts which are a complete unit spring already installed with bearing ready to bolt up . I used a coupon which gave me 50.00 off and i think they cost me 230.00 for both struts and 4 bolts on top and 2 on knuckle and wam bam done. It saves the time and effort of playing with spring compressor. Plus springs might be out of wack anyway. Bought 2 shocks off of ebay and changed them they are ford oems so life is good.....................

 

Front struts - different part for left and right
Rear shocks - same part left and right

Do you have a check engine light? If not, you may just run by autozone to see if any are stored. Honestly sounds like it's going to be a sensor of some sort, just don't know which way to point you.

 

If its not throwing a code could be the IAC valve.I put Monroe shocks on the back of my 01 Escape.

 

a coil or cylinder should throw a code as to which cylinder it is,mine always does i've replaced most od mine if its on the back side replace them all there only about $30 each and on the back side you have to pull the intake to replace them

 

I will have to go back and look at the codes i pulled last time but if i remember correctly there was 2 cylinders misfiring but i do not remember which 2. If it is a cylinder misfire are the odds good that its a bad COP? As it has gotten colder it is running worse and hesitating more in that same 1200 to 2000 rpm range but again if you downshift to put the rpm's higher than the 2k is almost entirely goes away.

On replacement coils, I have heard the off brand at like 20 or 30 are good and that they are junk and more than a few people say only get the ford part but the ford part is almost twice as much so is it really worth it?

thanks,

 

I bought one from Napa over 2 yrs. ago and the other from Advanced 1 yr ago

 

Hi: I fixed my in laws 2001 Escape with another form post. The culprit was the intake gaskets that are a syn oval ring variety. They shrink when cold and form a seal when warm/hot. Had a misfire code. So, I replaced the plugs, EGR valve(deep into the 'V') and the Intake Manifold gaskets(6). Runs very nice now at 178K miles.
I think the Escape forums(different site) has the pics to follow, too.
Enjoy...

 

I would take a look at the ECT and ACT, coolant and incoming air temperature sensors. The info they provide is used by the computer to bump the idle and enrich the fuel mix when the engine is cold. The IAC is the device used to control idle speed.
You should get a fast idle when you start the engine, and it should step down as the coolant warms up. If you don't, try turning on the A/C, and the IAC should keep the idle stable when the compressor runs and stops. If it doesn't, the IAC is gummy or faulty.
You can use a ODB-II scan tool to read the ECT and ACT 'readings', to insure that they are or are not functional.
You can use WD-40 sprayed all over the place, around the intake manifold gaskets {good luck...} to find a vacuum leak if you have one. The idle will smooth out when it gets some 'fuel' added to the air that is leaking in.
tom

 

Hi: Found the link for the replacement of the intake manifold gaskets. I mistakedly referred to the EGR valve in the 'V' of the engine. I should have said the PCV! Anyway, Here are some great pics on the fix for the V6 missing at cold temps and then running smooth when warmed up.
Escape-Central - Step-by-step. Removing the intake (2001 v6)
Bob

 

thanks for all the input on this guys and now that we have had a few mornings with frost I have an update on the running.

first morning with frost the car would hardly stay running and would either hover around 400 rpm or jump into the 2500 to 3000 range and just did not want to go in between the 2 till it warmed up. Once it had run for a few mins, long enough to scrape and go over all the stuff you should do before driving what to expect with the 16 year old it had some serious hesitation and would go from not moving to surging forward. I have also noticed that even after the temp get up to normal for running that it still will give me the stutter on occasion which in warmer weather it would almost never do.

Can i use any OBD-II scan tool, i have one i borrowed from my brother to read the codes before but not sure if it will do the ECT or ACT reading.

if any of this makes a difference please let me know.