1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Great Grandfathers 1950 f1

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  #16  
Old 09-30-2011, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Tveter50
Here is the serial number 98RC418226SP. Can somebody explain to me what the numbers and letters mean?
9 - 1949 or 1950 (depends on production sequence number)
8R - 8 cyl
C - 1/2 ton
418226 - production number

High production number suggests that it is a 1950. Likely a very late 1950.

SP - Saint Paul, MN production plant
 
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Tveter50
......That being said I am wondering alot about the origianl configuration of this truck. The first questions that come to mind are what size tires it would have had on it and how the bed was constructed. Did it have wood or was it a metal pan?
Thanks for any guidance.
More pics to come.
1942 thru mid-50 had a metal floor in the box that had embossed runners and was painted body color. Sometime in late 50 the metal was eliminated and the wood was exposed with metal runners (skid strips) covering the joints.

As late as your truck was produced you could do either IMHO and be correct. Take a close look at your box sides and see if there are any tell-tale signs of a floor pan or spotwelds around the perimeter.

The metal pans used a wood subfloor that was made up of scrap wood. Mine had pieces that tapered as much as 2" from front to back. Ford didn't waste much....
 
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:54 AM
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51panelman
Thanks for the information
 
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:55 AM
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Mtfflat
The truck has wood under the metal pan in the box. The pan has raised edges (sorry I do not know the technical term) running front to back.
 
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Tveter50
Mtfflat
The truck has wood under the metal pan in the box. The pan has raised edges (sorry I do not know the technical term) running front to back.
That's ok, we don't really know what to call them either. It usually is just called an early style or raised panel box. : )
 
  #21  
Old 09-30-2011, 08:54 AM
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Already answered
 
  #22  
Old 10-02-2011, 05:21 PM
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Photo Update

Here are some current photos of the project.

on the trailer

getting washed off

ready to remove cab

Cab off

Done for the weekend
 
  #23  
Old 10-02-2011, 08:12 PM
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Be very careful with that tube that is on the passenger side. The one that goes into the heater. that tube is worth its weight in gold( not literally) if it is anything but complete rust dust. From the picture, it looks at least usable. that is the fresh air intake for the heater. There should be another part to all the way to above the pass. side headlight to a vent/screen in the grill. You are planning to take this back to as close to original as possible, so just trying to help out!
You got a lot done in a short amount of time!
 
  #24  
Old 10-02-2011, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Ford began requiring a fat yearly license fee in the 1990's to be able to use their name/part numbers. AFAIK, only Dennis Carpenter pays the fee.

Most of the obsolete parts sellers were forced to drop Ford from their business names, because they didn't want to pay the yearly fee.

This all came about because of cheap, poorly made Taiwanese sheet metal/body parts that began flooding the US in the 1980's. The makers/sellers were using Ford part numbers/applications.

FoMoCo's lawyers sued to force them to cease and desist, some did, some did not. Ford then began applying for patents on body parts, this didn't help much either.

FoMoCo's lawyers then went after the 100's of obsolete parts sellers that were using Ford in their business name, Ford part numbers in their catalogs.

One long time seller of Model A parts told FoMoCo to go to hell...soon regretted that remark.

When he set up at the Carlisle Swap Meet, a team of Ford lawyers and the polizei were waiting for him, confiscated his entire inventory!

Now you know why it's Classic Auto Parts, no longer Obsolete Ford Parts of OK
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Tveter50: 1948/52 F1: The original tire size was 6.00-16, 6.50-16 was optional. These were 4 ply bias ply blackwall tires. Radials were not available, because...

Radial tires were invented by Michelin in the early 1950's.The first vehicle in the world to have radials as standard equipment was the 1955 FWD Citroen ID 19 (Michelin owned Citroen at that time).

The first US vehicle to have radials as standard equipment was the 1966 FWD Oldsmobile Toronado. GM discovered while conducting tests, that bias ply tires wore out within 7,000 miles.

Ford didn't offer radials until the 1970's and then, only as an option. White wall (w/wall) tires for trucks were not offered as an option until 1956.

1951/52: During the Korean War, w/wall tires were not available...period...for any new vehicle. Not even the high buck luxury cars like Cadillac/Packard/Lincoln/R-R/Bentley came with w/walls.

The bed floor was pine originally and was painted body color (not stained/varnished like you see on a gazillion 'restored' trucks today).

The wood came from Northern MI because...Ford owned the forests, the sawmills and the ships that transported the product to The Rouge.
Bill, thanks for again setting the record straight about what was stock and what is after market. Just cause you see some nice trucks at a show or in a picture and they say they are stock... well don't trust them. Your best bet is to buy dealer brochures to see what they offered from factory and what was dealer installed and what is not.
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:43 PM
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Let's just hope it goes back faster than it was taken apart. Usually, once a truck is taken apart, it stays that way for a few years. Just warning you....
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:54 PM
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Thanks for the advice about the air intake for the heater. We will be very careful. The hope is to have the truck back together by the middle of January. A family friend has a beautiful workshop and is looking to stay busy this fall and winter. It is amazing what you can do with an experienced hand helping and the right tools.

I am having trouble locating a replacement wiring harness for the truck. It will stay the 6v system. Any leads?
 
  #27  
Old 10-02-2011, 11:03 PM
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Any repro parts warehouses, like Sacramento Vintage Ford, Mac's Antique Auto Parts, Dennis Carpenter, Classic Haulers, and Rhode Island Wiring will have the wiring harnesses. Keep in mind that there isn't one comprehensive wiring harness. You will need to buy several harnesses to complete the truck. For example, there are separate wiring harnesses for the engine, headlights, fuel tank sending unit, dome lamp/courtesy lights, instrument panel, etc. I'm sure that you can call either of the repro parts warehouses and tell them that you need wire harnesses to complete your truck and they'll be able to tell and sell you exactly what you need. The harnesses are color-coded in factory colors. It'll be easy to rewire the truck by using the factory wiring diagram.
 
  #28  
Old 10-02-2011, 11:09 PM
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That is good to know I was looking for a complete harness. This is getting easier with each reply you guess post.
 
  #29  
Old 10-02-2011, 11:29 PM
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If you have to get something fast and can pick it up in Phoenix, you can try SO Cal Speed Shop of AZ... Great bunch oof guys over there...
 
  #30  
Old 10-03-2011, 08:59 PM
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Got some more done today.

looks like I will need 4 rotors. The ones on the truck look beyond repair.
 


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