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  #1  
Old 09-26-2011, 11:45 AM
menzfamfour menzfamfour is offline
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engine coolant drain plug

i have a 2002 f150 i am changing the coolant and i cant get a socket to fit that little plug is there a special tool please help thank you
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  #2  
Old 09-26-2011, 01:05 PM
Bluegrass 7 Bluegrass 7 is offline
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Your not using radiator drain **** at bottom passenger side?
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:25 PM
menzfamfour menzfamfour is offline
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no i mean the engine drain for the coolant nothing seams to fit it do i need a special socket
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:27 PM
menzfamfour menzfamfour is offline
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i have tried all my sockets and i am starting to strip the drain
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:24 PM
DanielB DanielB is offline
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Why are you pulling the block drain? To change the coolant you only need to drain the radiator from the drain **** on the bottom of the radiator. no need to jack with the block drain.
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:57 PM
menzfamfour menzfamfour is offline
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in the manual i tells you to drain that plug
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:12 PM
menzfamfour menzfamfour is offline
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should i forget to pull the engine plug
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Old 09-26-2011, 05:14 PM
DanielB DanielB is offline
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I've never done that. On any vehicle I did a coolant flush on I'd drain the coolant. fill with water, run the engine for a bit drain again. then refill with correct coolant/water mix.
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:28 AM
Torky2 Torky2 is offline
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I pull block drain plugs whenever possible. A 460 holds many quarts in the lower water jacket. Even the smaller engines hold quite a bit.

By using the radiator drain, or pulling the lower radiator hose, all the water in the block below the water pump passage level stays in the block. There is an upper common area, that pulling either side's block plug will drain. And a lower water jacket area (one each side of the engine) that only the plug on that side will drain.

I've pulled out the driver's side block plug on the '97 4.6L with no problem. Can't tell ya what wrench I used, don't remember. But it was no big deal. I used #1 Permatex (the setting type) on the plug threads before putting it back in.

Block drain plug on the passenger side on many V-engines are blocked by the starter. Pulling those on old engines can be a good idea. May pull the plug... and nothing comes out! Have to poke a thin steel rod in to dislodge crud, or casting sand that collected there at the bottom of the water jacket.
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:01 AM
paker paker is offline
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I don't know what engine you have. But on mine, the drain plug is a square head. I used adjustable wrench. It is a good idea to drain the block, but if you cannot, don't lose sleep.
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:05 PM
Rob1109 Rob1109 is offline
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97 with 4.6

I also would like the drain the block. Approximate location for both left and right side? Are these the square headed things? Can they be reached from the top side? Advice and counsel appreciated. Best.
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:08 PM
paker paker is offline
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I don't have 4.6 but afaik engine drain plugs are square heads. I doubt you can access it from above. YOu should see one on each block.
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:11 PM
Torky2 Torky2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob1109 View Post
I also would like the drain the block. Approximate location for both left and right side? Are these the square headed things? Can they be reached from the top side? Advice and counsel appreciated. Best.
Just had my driver's side out a month ago. On my 1997 4.6 WINDSOR engine (VIN code "6" for 8th VIN digit), it is an internal hex plug. I use a metric hex that is fitted into its own socket, driven with a 3/8" drive, a Craftsman Metric Hex 3/8" drive set I have. I put an extension on it, and it is easy to get to.

The driver's side block drain plug is about 2" above the rear-most core plug ("freeze plug") on the block. On my 2WD, it is just above and a bit forward of the oil filter. Easy to get to sliding under from behind the left front wheel.

Once it's really loose, I just spin the extension by hand and slide myself back, because when the plug comes out, it dumps!

Before putting some Permatex #1 sealer on it and installing it, I thread it in bare with the extension held by hand not by wrench, to get a feeling for the insertion angle needed. It has to be threaded in really straight, or else it isn't right. When you have it started right, it threads in easy.
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:11 PM
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