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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #61  
Old 09-28-2011, 10:07 AM
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Steve Tyminski
In the old days, before Donaldson came up with the current indicator, we used to use meters that measured inches of water (instead of inches of mercury, which is much heavier) and displayed to the operator in the cab.
If the meter reading exceeded a predetermined threshold, the filters would be changed. Of course, these were V-16 Cat engines and really moved some air....but the concept is the same.
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  #62  
Old 09-29-2011, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by lew52 View Post
I would not use brake cleaner to clean the MA meter , use electrical cleaner....Lew
I agree with Lew. If not MAF cleaner then electrical cleaner.
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  #63  
Old 09-29-2011, 09:06 AM
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Brake cleaner is what was at my disposal, I was living out of state in an apartment
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  #64  
Old 09-29-2011, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by blkF250HD View Post
Brake cleaner is what was at my disposal, I was living out of state in an apartment
Obviously it worked for you anyway, right? Brake cleaner is underrated, it's good for a lot of things. My favorite secret of brake cleaner is that it erases Sharpie and permanent marker like magic. Just spray it on a paper towel and wipe off.
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  #65  
Old 09-29-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lvin4jc33 View Post
Obviously it worked for you anyway, right? Brake cleaner is underrated, it's good for a lot of things. My favorite secret of brake cleaner is that it erases Sharpie and permanent marker like magic. Just spray it on a paper towel and wipe off.
So does rubbing alcohol at half the cost ... Save the spray, I use it for everything also. My boss flips out that I/(lol he) buy it by the case and spray it like its water working on the equipment. I have electronics spray also but most of the time it does not evaporate fast enough for me and I go back to the brake cleaner when I can...
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  #66  
Old 09-29-2011, 12:22 PM
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Forced induction via "ram air" effect is fun to think about, but doesn't really happen in the real world. In order for it to really work, the air density or static pressure would have to be increased via pressurization. The force you feel when you stick your hand out the window when driving down the highway is dynamic force or kinetic energy created by the flow of the air. It is a seperate characteristic from the internal gas pressure of the air. In order to convert the kinetic energy to an increase in the density or static pressure would take way more energy than is generated at the automobile speeds we travel...it takes a turbo, supercharger, etc. to accomplish the task. The only benefit to be had is from the cooler outside air.
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  #67  
Old 11-08-2011, 12:25 PM
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K&N facts

Quote:
Originally Posted by redmondjp View Post
On vehicles equipped with a Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF), an over-oiled K&N (or other similar type of oiled filter element including foam) filter will cause tiny droplets of oil to get into the intake air. This oil then sticks to the sensing elements inside the MAF and causes it to malfunction (and in some cases, actually causes the MAF to burn up because it can't dissipate the heat properly into the air flowing through it). This then causes the CEL to turn on.

I have several friends who are mechanics and they all confirm this (even though K&N on their website claims that this can NEVER happen!!!). You can also google "K&N MAF" and start reading. Plenty of info out there. The European-car MAFs that use a circuit board sensing element are the most prone to being damaged by the oil film BTW. The hot-wire MAFs usually can be cleaned without any permanent damage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redmondjp View Post
And just to translate this a bit more: silicon = sand = dirt that is getting into your engine through the air filter, then past the rings (wearing them out in the process) and into the oil!!!

Look, K&N discussions belong in the group of politics, religion, and global warming (oops, I mean) climate change. You're either a hard-core believer, or a K&N performance denier.

Here's my take: if you're racing, and your engine is running at WOT a large percentage of the time, and you need every last fraction of a horsepower that you can eek out, and you're rebuilding your motor at least once per racing season, then go ahead and put a K&N filter on it. Your objective is to win races, and you don't car if your engine lasts 350K miles or not, so you can withstand a little bit more dirt getting into your engine and oil.

Now, if you have a daily driver, which runs at wayyyy less than WOT 99% of the time, and you want to maximize engine life at the expense of a loss of a couple (unnoticeable) HP at WOT, run a high-quality OEM paper air filter, install it once and leave it alone (every time you remove the airbox cover, you are breaking the seal between the box and the rubber filter seal, potentially causing future air leaks past the filter). Even better, install an air filter restriction gauge which most heavy trucks and construction equipment comes with stock. This way you know when you NEED to change your filter.

Four Wheeler Magazine did a very objective test of various air filter and airbox systems some time ago, and they tested both the drop-in K&N filter as well as the entire FIPK air intake setup; there are links to the results tables as well as to the entire article (an excellent read) here:

FOUR WHEELER Magazine's Project M.P.G.



There is a misconception with the K&N filter most people are under the impression that installing a drop in factory replacement filter is going to give you jaw dropping horsepower! Ther reality is the drop in filter is designed to give you more airflow than the factory air filter which will give you a little more power, coupled with the fact that its washable and reuseable. In short you will never have to buy another filter.

The other misconsepetion si that oil comes off our filter causing MAF sensor falilures. The fact of the mater is it's impossible because we know that the oil treatment on our cotton is very small (usually less than 2 ounces). Once the oil is properly and evenly absorbed through the cotton, no oil will come off, even under extreme engine conditions. It is ridiculous, because no dealership or service provider has ever been able to provide us with evidence to support this "myth," and in fact, our investigations have revealed that even authorized dealerships are simply speculating and do not have the test equipment necessary to know whether the sensor has failed or why. It is even more ridiculous because some car manufacturers use and sell air filters treated with oil on a regular basis. There are also major brands of disposable air filters that are treated with oil. We all use oil for the same reason, it helps in the filtration efficiency of an air filter. For more information on this topic including videos, see the videos below:

Mass Air Flow Sensors Intro & Test Results Summary

Can Oil Come Off Our Filters? High Airflow Testing & Engine Air Filter Dynamics

What Does It Take to Foul a MAF Sensor? Extreme Testing

What Can Contaminate a Mass Air Flow Sensor?


Out of the millions of air filters we sell, we only receive a handful of consumer complaints each month that a dealership or service provider has blamed a vehicle sensor repair on our product. We take each complaint very seriously and see it as an opportunity to stop a consumer from being taken advantage of. We investigate the situation thoroughly and take full responsibility for resolving the issue. We are so confident in our ability to resolve these situations and to help a consumer fight back that we offer our Consumer Protection Pledge.

As a result of our standing up for consumer rights and providing assistance to resolve a disagreement, we have had over 300 actual sensors sent to us by dealerships who claimed our product had caused them to fail. Microscopic, electronic and chemical testing revealed that none of the sensors were contaminated by K&N oil. What is perhaps the single biggest clue to what is going on is that over 50% of these sensors were not broken in the first place for any reason. If you ever have a problem with a K&N filter please contact us we are more than willing to work with you to resolve the problem.

In regards to those considering the purchase of a K&N you have nothing to loose and everything to gain by purchasing a K&N fiilter.
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  #68  
Old 11-08-2011, 02:00 PM
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^^ good explanation, but, for my truck, a k&n setup would run me almost 300 dollars. (not just a drop in filter in the air box) how does the gain justify the cost?
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  #69  
Old 11-08-2011, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srsparky32 View Post
^^ good explanation, but, for my truck, a k&n setup would run me almost 300 dollars. (not just a drop in filter in the air box) how does the gain justify the cost?
the fipik kit for your 5.8 is under 200 if you do your homework and not just google the first one that comes up. I got one for 198 off ebay -= shipped=- this year (Only to replace the ugly stuff under the hood- purely cosmetic) Now here is the tricky part "IF" the 119K on the truck was put on by you and you bought the filter when the truck was new. It would have paid for itself with filter replacement costs and the added mileage they give. Now mid to end life for that truck I don't see the point in getting one. Unless you hit a person and the fan eats up your tubing and the ins. company buys you it.. But if thats the case the truck is totaled ...
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  #70  
Old 11-08-2011, 06:52 PM
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Still...Even at the cheaper price.....For the 2-5 yrs on avg a guy keeps these trucks....A Spectre, etc filter will do the same thing, for less, and is washable...

So, IMHO, not worth it....
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  #71  
Old 11-08-2011, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SideWinder4.9l View Post
Still...Even at the cheaper price.....For the 2-5 yrs on avg a guy keeps these trucks....A Spectre, etc filter will do the same thing, for less, and is washable...

So, IMHO, not worth it....
I think im going to keep charlotte even if i do buy a better truck or car. once you have a f150 you have it for life. at least thats me with mine.
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srsparky32 View Post
I think im going to keep charlotte even if i do buy a better truck or car. once you have a f150 you have it for life. at least thats me with mine.
Same here....I was taking into account rust damage, deer damage, wrecks, etc.....Just sayin'....
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  #73  
Old 11-08-2011, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SideWinder4.9l View Post
Same here....I was taking into account rust damage, deer damage, wrecks, etc.....Just sayin'....
oh of course. rust damage can be prevented if you wash the truck constantly during snow season and touch up paint chips etc. im sure you know that anyway.

as far as wrecks..well..just drive as carefully as you can :P
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  #74  
Old 11-09-2011, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srsparky32 View Post
as far as wrecks..well..just drive as carefully as you can :P
That doesn't always protect you, sadly I bought a 2010 Mustang brand new, babied it everywhere, then some moron slams into it at my parking lot at work...

I agree that a K&N filter is a great upgrade over stock, but it isn't really an economical purchase on our trucks.
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  #75  
Old 11-09-2011, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgethis View Post
That doesn't always protect you, sadly I bought a 2010 Mustang brand new, babied it everywhere, then some moron slams into it at my parking lot at work...

I agree that a K&N filter is a great upgrade over stock, but it isn't really an economical purchase on our trucks.
Did you get it fixed or what?

also if you baby it everywhere then its easier to look out for the douche nozzles. i mean, im sure youre a very aware driver and sometimes its unavoidable but yeah.
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