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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #16  
Old 09-25-2011, 11:22 PM
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Wesley R. Cole
Still yet, an engine can, and will only take a certain amount of CFM's....Period....Unless you do a forced induction setup...

But on a naturally aspirated engine, I'm PRETTY sure the Ford Guys that BUILT the danged things were a tad more versed in the way an engine runs, and what it needs, than I am.....

I redid mine, simply for more room, etc....
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  #17  
Old 09-25-2011, 11:42 PM
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I plan on getting one of these some day.
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  #18  
Old 09-26-2011, 12:28 AM
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the kit for my f150 would run me about 250 dollars. it just isnt worth it for MAYBE 10hp increase. the stock air box and tubes etc for our vintage year trucks were actually really well designed from the factory so why mess with it?
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  #19  
Old 09-26-2011, 01:41 AM
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Save your money, there are many guys here who have tried it and it is not worth it.
Conaski can help with worth while mods and I am sure sidewinder has been there and done that too. Along With me, been there, done that.
Save your money.
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  #20  
Old 09-26-2011, 02:05 AM
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Its a complete waste of time and cash. I had the FIPK hot air intake and got worse fuel economy. I also had the replacement KN. My truck runs best with a Motorcraft, Wix, or Purolator filter and the 4.9/7.5 lower tube. The factory 5.0/5.8 tube is a lousy design.

I'd use the money for a full tune up with quality stock type parts, or fresh fluids in everything.

Don't waste your money on snake oil spark plugs either.
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  #21  
Old 09-26-2011, 02:09 AM
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My good friend has mechanically the exact same truck as mine. He tried it as well, and is back using the stock setup.
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  #22  
Old 09-26-2011, 04:45 AM
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With these trucks so corked up from the factory you wont notice much difference , but with a good exhaust and cam in a 302 , an aftermarket filter system will help a bunch , so i would start with the exhaust....Lew
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  #23  
Old 09-26-2011, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvin4jc33 View Post
You're suggesting that the OP drives his truck around with no filter because it's cheaper than a K&N?
No I'm suggesting it be done for a short test only.. just to see what(if any) difference it makes, and then he can decide what to do knowing what the maximum possible gains are since nothing flows better than no filter at all. Having done this myself I know what the results are and that's why my truck with the big cam and full exhaust system still has all the factory intake parts on it with the exception of an I6 intake snorkle.
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  #24  
Old 09-26-2011, 08:23 AM
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I would leave the air tubes hooked up to the TB and just remove the filter or the tube from the air box and give it a try....
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  #25  
Old 09-26-2011, 08:24 AM
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If you look at any UOA on BITOG using a K&N you will see a huge spike in silicon in the oil. Yes, I use one on my bored/stroked mustang, but in a SD truck, hells no, don't waste your money.
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  #26  
Old 09-26-2011, 10:45 AM
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I got an air filter with my 93 F250 w/460. The previous owner had bought it but never got around to trying it. After I had the truck for a couple weeks I unboxed it and followed the instructions and installed it. Truck had a factory ford filter in it at the time. I drove it for a couple months, didn't notice any difference in mileage or performance. Although to be fair I am usually pretty easy on the gas pedal and might not have noticed a slight power increase. I took it out during the next oil change and its been sitting on a shelf for a couple years now. Maybe I'll give it a try again and watch things a little closer.
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  #27  
Old 09-26-2011, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWhiteBeast View Post
If you look at any UOA on BITOG using a K&N you will see a huge spike in silicon in the oil. Yes, I use one on my bored/stroked mustang, but in a SD truck, hells no, don't waste your money.
And just to translate this a bit more: silicon = sand = dirt that is getting into your engine through the air filter, then past the rings (wearing them out in the process) and into the oil!!!

Look, K&N discussions belong in the group of politics, religion, and global warming (oops, I mean) climate change. You're either a hard-core believer, or a K&N performance denier.

Here's my take: if you're racing, and your engine is running at WOT a large percentage of the time, and you need every last fraction of a horsepower that you can eek out, and you're rebuilding your motor at least once per racing season, then go ahead and put a K&N filter on it. Your objective is to win races, and you don't car if your engine lasts 350K miles or not, so you can withstand a little bit more dirt getting into your engine and oil.

Now, if you have a daily driver, which runs at wayyyy less than WOT 99% of the time, and you want to maximize engine life at the expense of a loss of a couple (unnoticeable) HP at WOT, run a high-quality OEM paper air filter, install it once and leave it alone (every time you remove the airbox cover, you are breaking the seal between the box and the rubber filter seal, potentially causing future air leaks past the filter). Even better, install an air filter restriction gauge which most heavy trucks and construction equipment comes with stock. This way you know when you NEED to change your filter.

Four Wheeler Magazine did a very objective test of various air filter and airbox systems some time ago, and they tested both the drop-in K&N filter as well as the entire FIPK air intake setup; there are links to the results tables as well as to the entire article (an excellent read) here:

FOUR WHEELER Magazine's Project M.P.G.
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  #28  
Old 09-26-2011, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmondjp View Post
And just to translate this a bit more: silicon = sand = dirt that is getting into your engine through the air filter, then past the rings (wearing them out in the process) and into the oil!!!

Look, K&N discussions belong in the group of politics, religion, and global warming (oops, I mean) climate change. You're either a hard-core believer, or a K&N performance denier.

Here's my take: if you're racing, and your engine is running at WOT a large percentage of the time, and you need every last fraction of a horsepower that you can eek out, and you're rebuilding your motor at least once per racing season, then go ahead and put a K&N filter on it. Your objective is to win races, and you don't car if your engine lasts 350K miles or not, so you can withstand a little bit more dirt getting into your engine and oil.

Now, if you have a daily driver, which runs at wayyyy less than WOT 99% of the time, and you want to maximize engine life at the expense of a loss of a couple (unnoticeable) HP at WOT, run a high-quality OEM paper air filter, install it once and leave it alone (every time you remove the airbox cover, you are breaking the seal between the box and the rubber filter seal, potentially causing future air leaks past the filter). Even better, install an air filter restriction gauge which most heavy trucks and construction equipment comes with stock. This way you know when you NEED to change your filter.

Four Wheeler Magazine did a very objective test of various air filter and airbox systems some time ago, and they tested both the drop-in K&N filter as well as the entire FIPK air intake setup; there are links to the results tables as well as to the entire article (an excellent read) here:

FOUR WHEELER Magazine's Project M.P.G.
I appreciate that article since my truck is very similar. However, on page 7 it clearly states that the K&N drop in filter netted more power, more MPG's and filters more dirt than a stock paper element, which is what K&N says it does.

I bought the drop in because I plan to insulate the stock box like they did. I searched this on FTE beforehand and found that a couple of members claim they gained right at 2mpg by doing this. It would seem that A K&N drop in filter inside an insulated 4.9/7.5 box has been proven to be the best setup for our trucks by several different members and independent tests. It is also a very cheap MOD I did for a $26 K&N off of eBay and less than $10 in insulation tape from Lowe's.

$36 for added hp/mpg and better filtration seems like a deal to me.
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  #29  
Old 09-26-2011, 07:18 PM
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You guys get the blinker fluid topped off and the muffler bearings greased when Jiffy lube says you need it too don't ya.

If you have $200-250 to spend. Buy some LT headers. that will net you a real bang for your buck.
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  #30  
Old 09-26-2011, 07:45 PM
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Yep, exhaust!
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:45 PM
 
 
 
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