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2000 F-250 SD. what is this engine part?

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  #31  
Old 10-01-2011, 08:41 PM
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I don't know of any one to recommend down there in cooledge or Casa Grande any one? Maybe even Florence or Oracle?
 
  #32  
Old 10-03-2011, 10:23 AM
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Hi all
Greg was a GREAT fellow to work with. Didn't like the message, but DID like the messenger.

The info that Greg posted was correct.
There were 3 codes, but none of them applied to the problem at hand. (1 was when I had the key cylinder out).

One of the values Greg read was "tvrbm" if I can read Greg's writing = 260
The other was "tlslip = 425

I've done some asking around and got a couple of recomendations for a shop here in Coolidge that has a good reputation. Am planning on visiting there this morning.
 
  #33  
Old 10-03-2011, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by bobmiers
...

One of the values Greg read was "tvrbm" if I can read Greg's writing = 260
The other was "tlslip = 425....

Sorry Bob, I meant to re-write the values more legibly so my scribbles would make sense.

To keep everyone informed, here is what we did. With AE connected and truck running....we selected the Live Data Meter tab.
In the first three windows, we pulled up Engine RPM, Turbine/Input Speed Sensor and Torque Converter Slip Actual.
As far as I know, the turbine input speed should be the speed the pump is turning inside the transmission. If that is correct, then with TC locked, the speed should match engine RPM. When the TC is locked, the torque converter slip should be pretty close to 0 rpm.

So, we manually locked the TC at idle and the noise changed quite a bit but the values didn't really change that much, maybe 60 rpm. So, that leads me to think the TC is shot. However, it still may not be definitive because I am not sure the pump makes enough line pressure to lock the TC at idle so perhaps the readings have no merit. Maybe Mark K will see this thread and confirm or clarify my thinking here.

At this point I am still holding out hope that the only thing wrong is a cracked flexplate.
 
  #34  
Old 10-03-2011, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
The #8 injector is at the end of a dead head fuel rail. Since it fires right after #6 it gets slightly starved for fuel and knocks. Try to listen closely near the back of the driver side head where #8 is and determine if that is the knock you hear. A mechanics stethescope works great. If so the best remedy to ensure #8 gets enough fuel is a fuel return kit. Best bang for the money is the FRx from Riffraff Diesel Performance. LINK If you get hold of a mechanics stethescope check out the whole engine bay with belt on and then with belt off. Stethescope can be had at just about any parts store. I have one from Harbor Freight that only cost about 5 bucks and it works good enough for a shadetree mecanic like myself.

Another knock noise that can sound like it is coming from above is a noisy torque coverter. You can rule that in or out by listening for the knock from down low near the bell housing. Most likely not it for your model year but try to rule it out.

Low fuel pressure can also cause injector knock.

Is this work the money?
 
  #35  
Old 10-03-2011, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by microdevil45
Is this work the money?
The FRx is certainly worth the money. Hell, it's worth more then the money.
 
  #36  
Old 10-03-2011, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
The FRx is certainly worth the money. Hell, it's worth more then the money.
Amen.......
 
  #37  
Old 10-08-2011, 08:25 AM
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greetings all:
Got the truck back Thursday. The problem started when a baffel inside the TC came loose and the fluid flow wasn't proper. This caused the Flexplate to warp. Replaced the TC with a heavier duty one since I pull a travel trailer a couple times a year. All total the bill was a bit less than $1400.
Thanks to everyone who commented.
Bob Miers
 
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