I know these breaking this is a pretty common issue on the 92-97 f-series and bronco. So I will show how i go about FIXING them and Fixing so they will NEVER fail again.
We will start with the broken pieces out of the truck.

One this one, the shifter broke at the pivot pint. But they also brake where the shifter linkage attaches at the steel pin.
First the shifter must come apart
The pivot bolt and 2 nylon bushings must be removed.

Next up is removing the detent pin. You remove the zip tie holding the rubber boot, the boot, and 2 o-rings.

Then lube the **** out of it with your favorite penetrating oil. Lube where the shaft goes up-n-down too.

It will take a couple hard blows to knock the detent pin loose. be careful not to brake the aluminum housing. Drive out the pin from the short side.
Once you get the detent pin out, remove the upper shaft from the body.

After the shaft is removed, MAKE SURE your remove the 2 bushings from the body.

Next up I clean all the penetrating fluid off w brake clean, then sandblast the aluminum body(this helps the welder out)
I drill and tap 2 holes for grease fittings. I try to face them both forward for accessibility. I use 1/4-28 NF fittings. It calls for a .2139/No.3 drill bit. I don't have one so I use a 13/64" which=.2031 The aluminum body is not thick enough to have the fitting threaded in all the way(it will contact the shaft and bolt), so I use washers as spacers.

The finish product before it goes to the welder to get TIG welded

When back from the welder, I clean all the steel parts and put a light coat of grease on everything. Then assemble, install, and put 2-3 pumps of grease in each fitting. move back and forth several times from 2HI -4LO and your are all set. Put 1 pump of grease in every 6 months are move thru the positions and you will never have any more issues

 

Looks like it should work, nice writeup. If we were to clean her up and install the grease zerks BEFORE it siezes and we turn into the incredible hulk and break it, you could skip the tig welding part. Not saying I'm that motivated or anything... I cant get mine in 4lo and I havent fully investigated why... Afraid its in the transfer case.

 

I would bet it is the sliding shaft is seized in the body

 

Great writeup, but I think this bears mentioning...Brake Cleaner = Phosgene Article

 

^ Thats why the make NON Chlorinated brake cleen these days.

 

Great write-up, but personally I throw those out and replace them with the pre-92 style (the one you pull to the left instead of push for 4LO) since they are made of cast-iron and do not fail like the 92-97 type.

 

Do they fit or need to be modified jas88?

 

They bolt right in place.

 

Wow that article on brake cleaner is crazy. I almost passed out cleaning out my rear diff with carb cleaner, just glad I wasn't using brake cleaner and any heat.

 

hey jas88 when you say pre-92 how "pre"? Will an 86 work?

 

I think so - it just needs to be coming from a truck with a BW1356 xfer case. This is what it looks like:

 

Thx for the response jas88

 

I always delete the detent plate and add a Flat and a lock washer

 

FWIW, I did this mod on all 4 of my trucks (1-'95 & 3 '96's) and believe me, they all shift like butter now. The only thing different is I use Lucas' Red & Tacky for lube on the body where the spring is contained and use Lithium on where it bolts into the trans case. IMO, this helps it move back & forth into 4WD MUCH easier! Ford really should've done this from the factory.....
Roger

 

While working on this , my helper broke pivot . (Ford Cert. tech).
Soooo I go to U pull it , broken, different or frozen to trans (Hand tools ,limited space.)
I was thinking the older one might work, Shoulda looked HERE first!
Thanks,Ed
ps Bonus ,Yard cashier Real Cute !