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  #16  
Old 09-29-2011, 01:03 PM
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I kinda worry about that. I'd figure on replacing the entire turbo as a write off and only IF the compression and leakdown test comes out right. It shouldn't be too difficult to do it with the spark plugs removed.
Are you lost?
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Old 09-29-2011, 01:11 PM
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Are you lost?
Sorry, GLOW plugs.
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Old 09-29-2011, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Tailgate77478 View Post
Might want to look at the fins yourself to see if it truly was a debris issue, or if the fins started melting due to extreme exhaust temps.

Either way, not a good situation. If something smacked that compressor wheel, it didn't just "magically" find a way out. It could have done some much more serious damage to the engine than even dusting does.
What part of the turbo is going to melt in our trucks? Just curious...
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Old 09-29-2011, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Kstar9 View Post
I have a feeling that's the problem, not the compressor wheel. So where do I get a rebuild kit? If that really is the problem, do I have to take the turbo to a professional shop where they can balance it?

If the wheel has made contact with the housing then you need a new wheel, and a new housing...

If that is in fact the issue and you want to keep the stock turbo I would put a STOCK wheel in and an ATS housing... However at that point you would be far better off and money ahead to just pick up a GTP-38R and put that in.
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Old 09-29-2011, 03:05 PM
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If the wheel has made contact with the housing then you need a new wheel, and a new housing...

If that is in fact the issue and you want to keep the stock turbo I would put a STOCK wheel in and an ATS housing... However at that point you would be far better off and money ahead to just pick up a GTP-38R and put that in.
I've seen some pretty horrible things happen to turbine wheels on a gtp38 although I cannot definitively say whether it was or was not a result of heat. It also could've been a result of the bad things that happened inside that engine that caused to be replaced in the first place.
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  #21  
Old 09-29-2011, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 7.3 Rocket View Post
I've seen some pretty horrible things happen to turbine wheels on a gtp38 although I cannot definitively say whether it was or was not a result of heat. It also could've been a result of the bad things that happened inside that engine that caused to be replaced in the first place.

Nothing that would turn your pistons to liquid would hurt your turbo...

Your not watching EGT's to protect the turbo...

homemade jet engine - YouTube
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Old 09-29-2011, 03:53 PM
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I've found a couple stock turbos here ib a local classified. A new GTP-38 is out of budget and the google search turned up a lot of negatives about it.

In what scenario would I need a rebuild kit?

Is there a schematic of this specific turbo to help me better understand how it works?

What is the make and model of the stock turbo on an '01? Is it the same or different than 1st gen strokers?
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Old 09-29-2011, 04:05 PM
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Have you talked to Ron's Turbo Service? Rebuilt Turbochargers| Turbocharger Kits| Turbochargers| Salt Lake City, Utah

IF the truck has forged rods, I would check with a Ford garage as to what the cost to R&R the turbo is and figure out what a new stock turbo costs. That should tell you that in a worst case scenario, what to subtract. So if a new turbo costs $1000 and the mechanic fee is $500, I will subtract $1500 from what I think the truck is worth with the turbo in good shape. If it comes under that, I'm ahead of the game. If it comes to that, I'm covered. If you can R&R the turbo yourself, you get paid $500 for your effort. After all, your time is money.
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  #24  
Old 09-29-2011, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kstar9 View Post
I've found a couple stock turbos here ib a local classified. A new GTP-38 is out of budget and the google search turned up a lot of negatives about it.

In what scenario would I need a rebuild kit?

Is there a schematic of this specific turbo to help me better understand how it works?

What is the make and model of the stock turbo on an '01? Is it the same or different than 1st gen strokers?
Negitives on the 38R?

Surge- Older ones, but not much issue since the retool...

Other then that its a good drop in turbo for stock injectors to mild hybirds.

If you have a 2001 then any turbo from L99 to 2003 will be a drop in deal.

An OBS turbo or an E99 superduty will not work.

If its made contact with the housing I would send it somewhere to get compeletly checked out and the parts needed replaced... Thats why at that point the 38R becomes that much better of a deal.
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  #25  
Old 09-29-2011, 04:09 PM
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Joe that turbo jet engine is really cool.

And like I said I didn't really know what caused the mayhem with the turbine wheel but after seeing one used as a jet engine I'm going to say it was probably a result of foreign object damage.
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  #26  
Old 09-29-2011, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7.3 Rocket View Post
Joe that turbo jet engine is really cool.

And like I said I didn't really know what caused the mayhem with the turbine wheel but after seeing one used as a jet engine I'm going to say it was probably a result of foreign object damage.


And ya, I have always wanted to build one of those!
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Old 09-29-2011, 04:31 PM
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What part of the turbo is going to melt in our trucks? Just curious...
I have seen exhaust side wheels bent over and curled under them selfs in a fully functioning turbo...how would you explain that?
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  #28  
Old 09-30-2011, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rat49f6 View Post
I have seen exhaust side wheels bent over and curled under them selfs in a fully functioning turbo...how would you explain that?

FOD...

You can not... NOT melt our exhaust wheels... The motor will melt down (pistons specifically) before you will damage the turbo from heat.
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  #29  
Old 09-30-2011, 09:34 AM
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Just stick a leaf blower on the outflow side of the intercooler to backflow anything out.
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  #30  
Old 09-30-2011, 11:13 AM
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Just stick a leaf blower on the outflow side of the intercooler to backflow anything out.
IF you suspect something has been around the intercooler, isn't it also safe to assume that it has already hit the engine? If I suspected some sort of debris in the track, I would say a compression test is necessary.
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