Ok guys seriously, i'm sorry, there was no intention on my behalf to be an a-hole or insult someone or something of the sorts. I think we got off on the wrong foot here. Please accept my appologies.

 

Why dont you just plug it in for a little while and then try it,that would rule out the glow plugs anyway.
Jim

 

Here's a few more tests i did today,
Plugged 300psi gauge into hpop reservoir
truck wasnt started in 3 days cranked around 15 sec and oil started to build up at around 25-30psi, truck fired within 2-3 secs after
After truck was started, when cranking hpop reservoir was full almost to the top and pressure built up almost immediately after startind to crank
at running idle it reads 30 psi, when at 2000 rpm = 60psi
Plugged 5000psi gauge at HPOP right hand side oil galley, when cranking pressure 0
just pefore it starts, pressure spikes up at close to 1000 and it fires, then stabilises around 800, when gas predal is pressed spikes up to 2000psi
Also unplugged IPR solenoid while truck was running, immediately died
Will attempt to change LPOP to see if it makes a difference

 

Note that to replace the LPOP you have to drop the pan, which means either pulling the engine out of the truck or cutting the cross member out and then welding or bolting it back into place.

When the truck sits for several days, before you attempt to start it cold, open the port on the HPOP reservoir and look inside. What is the level of the oil inside? A missing back flow valve in the filter head, or leaking IPR o-rings can let the oil drain out of the HPOP reservoir and the engine will take longer to start as the LPOP must first build pressure and fill the HPOP reservoir.

 

UPDATE

Changed LPOP today, pretty easy once u get the rad fan off, and you have the right balancer puller took like 30 min.

Went for a Melling improved LPOP with housing and seal 95$ CDN

However, the deceiving part is truck still doesnt start and problem remains

I'm thinking new IPR and can anyone show me a picture of this Check valve in the filter body that i keep hearing about, i dont know what to look for in there

Thanks

 

This picture has it in it



This one is of it missing



Here is what belongs in there




Have you tried starting with the icp unplugged?

BTW, you're going to have air in the system now for sure so it's not going to start very good, could take quite a few short intervals of cranking, then lots of driving to get it out

 

Darin I think that the valve wich Nate is refering to is not that, its another in the same head but in different position (back flow valve ), I dont have pics in this PC to show it.

 

Maybe you can see it in the second and third pic, its the circular port in the head of the oil cooler (in the left of the pic)

Oil Cooler O-ring replacement R and R - PowerStrokeNation

 

This thread might help you also ...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-94-5-psd.html

 

Yep thats another valve: deareation valve
So here we are talking about 3 diff. valves.
1.- back flow valve what Nate mentioned
2.- The relief valve that Darin posted and
3.- the deareation valve thats in this post.

Am I right?

 

Actually the one I am talking about is a check valve that is built into the short stand pipe that feeds the HPO Res. If the check valve fails, it allows the HPO res to drain overnight (or any time the truck sits for an extended period of time).

Check it out.



It's kinda hard to read the text that is in the picture unless you zoom in, but the "Short Circuit Device" they show there acts as a check valve to keep the oil from draining back out of the HPO reservoir. If it fails, the res. drains and causes an extended crank time to start the engine. Check the res. level before cranking the engine. If it is down a ways, top it off before cranking. If the truck starts quick, then I would take a look at that "Short Circuit Device" as shown in the picture above.

The valve in the filter head/oil cooler is a pressure relief valve that allows oil to bypass the oil filter in the event the pump cannot push the oil through the filter (like in the case of a plugged oil filter). The failure of this valve won't cause the issue we're seeing here IMO.

The deareation valve mentioned in the other post and the valve I am talking about are the same device.

BTW, that screenshot I posed above is from THIS link. Check it out for a more detailed look, or to see it better.

 

So then:
The 1 and 3 are the same and is called: Short circuit check valve (short circuit device) and deareation valve.
The 2 what Darin posted IS: the oil filter Bypass valve
and the other valve in the head of the oil cooler its the: Pressure relief/regulator valve. (this one I thought that Chase was refering to) OK?

 

Actually that its not true right?

 

Yeah you caught me on that one. I guess it is possible. My mistake. You can replace the LPOP without pulling the pan, I guess maybe it was the oil pickup tube i was thinking of.

 

Okey dokey, I was sure that you was thinking in the oil pickup tube.