I've changed the plugs on my 2004 F150 twice. Once at about 85k, the other at about 140k. Read up on the spark plug fiasco, sprayed with Aero Kroil, soaked, 1/2 turn, soak some more, etc. Got them out just fine.

My son brought his newly purchased 2006 F150 with about 95000 on it to my house since dad is an "expert". Sprayed them down with Kroil last night. Backed out about 1/2 turn. This morning, another 1/2 turn. This evening a bit more. A couple were spinning freely and, sure enough, were broken off. Didn't do anything different than I did with the 2004. I feel terrible but have read about the Lisle extraction tool and ordered one.

Check out my attached pic of the two broken off. At this rate, I'm afraid I'll break all 8. The metal electrode part came out with the first broken plug but stayed in with the 2nd. Will the Lisle extraction tool get the remaining parts out?

Thanks, input is welcome.

 

Is your tool 3 parts?

 

Vloney - it was the two piece. Here is the link we saw recommended on another thread:

Amazon.com: Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines: Automotive

Let me know if there is something different we need to order, success rate, etc.

Thanks!

Please keep the input coming!

 

The Ford tool I use also has a tap. The "pusher" part pushes the ceramic down into the "strap" area of the plug. Careful that you dont push it too far. When the ceramic is down, the other tool makes threads (this is where the tap comes in) and screws into the remains of the plug. If its solid enough, it will pull it out the rest of the way. Apply anti sieze to the "tapered" parts of the new plugs only.

 

The tool is worth it's weight in Gold
(well - maybe silver in todays market )
anyway; when you get it, you'll see. Great tool and it works.
Looks like the price has come way down too - they used to be twice that much.
and it was still worth it!

 

The lisle tool is great and will take care of getting the bottam half of plug ceramic and electrode loop. You will want to bronze the thing when you finish the job and turn the key.

 

Tool works great! Highly recommend. Just read instructions and be sure not to turn it in to far. Took me about 30 min. a plug.

 

From experience.. make sure you ground out the pusher tool all the way (GROUND the screw). If you don't the reverse threads wont catch the edges of the metal. Also I recommend a flex 1/2" Drive Ratchet to get some extra strength to ground the reverse thread screw. I ended up rounding one out because I kept trying to seat the threads.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

Of course it had to be plug in the back on the driver side..OF COURSE... after talking to a Ford Tech I bribed to take Buffalo Wild Wings, he told me that when they can't get it out they just pull the valve cover and can extract it from there...

That tool works great when you do it correctly, I had to pull the valve cover, but I wouldn't worry about busting the ceramic in your head, all you need is a fuel line just under the size of the spark plug thread/ duck tape/ and a shop vac. the major pieces are going to come out while the rest of the residue will exit the exhaust port.

 

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but I'm wondering... what kind of gas have you been using on your '04, rcknrbn? I guess there's no way of knowing on your son's '06.

All 8 of mine came out. All of them were screeching in pain on the way out, but all came out in 1 piece.

I've been using top tier gas since I bought the rig new. I'm wondering if that has a lot to do with the plugs coming out easier. All but one of them were pretty clean of carbon. The one had some minor build up around the bottom shank, but that was it.

 

Thanks for all the good input thus far.

I've got to admit I'm a bit perplexed with this 2006 F150. Backed a 3rd plug out this morning after now soaking in Aero Kroil for about 36 hrs (1/2 turn Friday night, 1/2 turn Sat evening, now - another 1/2 turn this morning). Sure enough, plug 3 separated, started spinning free and broke right off. No doubt I'll break all 8 at this rate.

Aquaman - on my 2004, I usually just ran 87 octane, no particular brand. Just tried to use a station that had a good business thus a quick turnover of fuel (didn't sit in their underground tanks long enough to get a lot of condensation mixed with it).

BatteriesNotINCL - good advice on the flex head ratchet - gonna pick one up today. You mentioned pulling the valve cover. Was that a huge job on the 5.4?

 

Hey guys, not trying to work myself up into a nosebleed prematurely but we've made a bit more progress with plug (or plug part) removal. Ordered the Lisle extraction tool, should be in by end of week.

Pics below show where we are at. Pic 1 is the 8 plugs removed. 2 removed without breaking. The other 6 are broken in various stages. Four have the "electrode" piece still attached. Two broke off clean leaving this electrode piece still embedded in the portion stuck in the head.

The 2nd pic is of one of the spark plug wells in which the metal piece (electrode) is still embedded.

Will the Lisle extraction tool remove the plug remnants that still has the metal piece stuck down in it?

Thanks again in advance for positive input.

 

I still can't believe that none of the experts involved in the development of this engine foresaw this problem.

 

The Lisle tool will push the porcelain down and break the earth strap. I've not had it happen to me that the bottom half of the electrode stayed in like that, but don't think it'll make any difference, unless the electrode falls into the cylinder! Make sure you account for all the parts in the end! I too broke 6 of the 8. The Lisle got them all out.

Ed

 

Its not the engineers who develope the cylinder head, its the spark plug supplier who took the specs & figured a way to save 1/10 of a penny per unit (crimping vs welding) the bottom half of the plug together.

 

It was but it wasn't. I have the Ford Manual from the shop with a cross reference manual for all the tools required. It wasn't hard when I followed the instructions, but it was time consuming. I would say its harder than changing a hub, but not like redoing the rear pumpkin. If you have a mechanical background strong in DIY...you should be fine. Just be sure to follow the T.O to the T....

AGAIN ITS A LAST RESORT

For the it getting those out, it will do just fine again I stress that the pusher is seated before you attempt to use the reverse thread screw. Like lloyd said it will break that strap and you it will do some good to vacuum before and after you use the tool. the rest that is too small or stuck will be blown out the exhaust ports and out your tail pipe....