-Looking at a new tt that will weigh nearly 12k all loaded up.
This unit is available (option) with the torsion axles, but the one we're looking at has the leaf spring suspension, is there really that much difference? my 10,400# car hauler has the torsion axles and pulls very well but I haven't pulled a trailer in a while with the leaf spring suspension.
Is it possible to swap out the leaf spring suspension for the torsion on an existing unit? would it be worth it? Thanks!

 

Bump to the top.......anyone??

 

I suspect the lack of response has to do with the general lack of experience with this option and the level of satisfaction with standard setups. Although there may have been some posts on fifth wheels chucking, I haven't seem many postings in that regard and I know market and manufacturer penetration of torsion and other suspension mods has been minimal to date, although it has been around forever. If anything, I think it is less common now than in the past.

As to adding it as an aftermarket accessory, it certainly was possible with gas powered motorhomes, but I am not sure there is enough demand for manufacturers to make it available for towables. I would contact the manufacturer whose product interested me, if this was something I was seriously considering.

This MOR/ryde Suspensions is perhaps one of the most common systems, but historically interest in options has not been in this direction. For me personally, as long as the dishes stay in the cabinets I'm okay with things as they are .

Steve

 

I really don't think it matters. Mine is typical leaf springs. Have about 10K on this new 5er...and no broken dishes.

 

Recently while hooking up my camper, I took a few sips from a can of soda and left it sitting on the kitchen counter.
I left Houston, and half way thru Louisanna I stared to think about where I left my Coke, Then it hit me, that sick feeling knowing that I have to deal with a sticky cleanup. I stopped at a rest area to discover the can was still sitting right where I left it, on the edge of the counter.
I'm amazed at how smooth my leaf springs do ride.

 

I would summarize here by saying, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I find manufacturers often offer options that leave me scratching my head.

Steve

 

Great post -

Here's my take on torsion axels...

Any torsion axle rubber will take a set over time - the amount of degradation is a function of weight, temperature, and the length of time the axle is in compression.

The best thing you can do to ensure the maximum longevity of the spring action on a rubber torsion axle is to unload it (put the frame on blocks) during periods of inactivity. Travel trailers, unlike most other types of trailers (i.e. horse or utility) are loaded to near 100% almost all of the time - and almost all of the time the trailers are sitting motionless.

The "spring" rubber is under compression when weight is on the trailer, and ALL rubber will take a "set" after a period of time. Removing the compression load will allow the rubber to retain the designed operational characteristics for a much longer time compared to being loaded to the almost maximum load during storage.

When I was researching axles for my '78 travel trailer I talked to no less than 3 axel design engineers from separate companies and the all agreed that any rubber torsion axle is running on borrowed time after 15 years or so.

Back when I did the reasearch no manufacturer I talked with offered a warranty of more than 3 years - makes you wonder why.

When I put the new axles on the traler I constructed a beam and jack receiver just inboard of the tires. The primary reason for the beam is to unload the torsion axles during periods of inactivity. The beams are welded to the flange mounts, so no weight is actually on the bottom of the axle tubes. The flange mounts transfer the weight of the trailer directly from the jacking beams to the trailer frame via the axle mounts. When installing the axles I moved the front axle 1/2 bolt hole to the front, and the rear axle 1/2 bolt hole to the rear, allowing for a decent amount of room between the wheels to easily use the bottle jacks. I also have a pair of 12 volt electric scissors jacks purchased to do the same job as the bottle jacks. I find the bottle jacks more convenient.

The torsion axles are great for keeping the height down (axles mount right on the frame if designed correctly), but suck for long life compared to leaf springs.

 

Thanks guys very much for the replies, I think I'm ok with the standard leaf spring axles.
(Frank-we're still working on getting the Forest River Sierra 323FK tt-actually looking at about 4 in the south part of the country)

 

I was wondering when you were picking it up. Did you find a closer one?

 

IMHO springs are the way to go. With torsion axles the trailer must be kept level, there is no way to equalize the load between axles. I have a buddy that hauls the same size load I do, 12k tractor on gooseneck with 2 7k axles, his torsions are eating up some pretty expensive tires, and we are both running load range G 14pr tires. My tires have about twice the miles on them and are in very good shape, he has only 1 of the original 4 left.

 

A few lessons to be learned about torsion axles. We build alum trailers all the time and torsion axles are all we use. Boss likes the cleanliness and low profile look. I dislike em! On a single axle they are ok but the way they ride isn't the best. Torsion is rough till loaded. Springs seem to do good all the time. A lil noisy though. Also if you have dual or triple axles the only time the weight is evenly distributed is when the axles are perfectly level. Springs self level and spread the weight. If you don't adjust your hitch to level the load on torsion axles you have a chance of overheating your tires or wheel bearings. Go through a ditch and all the weight is thrown on the wheels not in the ditch. On the highway with a load that is not changing and the same truck all the time would be great. But on the farm or off road applications it just doesn't cut it with the torsion axles!