I did not pull this motor so I didn't get to see what everything is...to the right and a little lower of the oil filter is a silver cylinder with a threaded nipple in the block, what is this?
As I take this apart things look really good, the PO must have taken pretty good care of it,no sludge at all under valve cover and just small shiny spots on the rockers.
I do however have ridges at the top of cylinders, I saw a reamer at NAPA and was wondering if the cylinders can be reamed with a hand drill or is a drill press needed?
Also wondering if they can be honed with a hand drill, I'm not sure if it will only need honing until I can find some telescoping gauges and micrometers to rent.
The motor is STILL sitting on a pallet so know idea yet what the bottom end looks like, I'm hoping to get it on a stand this week.
TIA
David

 

Not sure on the honing bit, but the little silver cylinder is the oil pressure sender.

 

I'd take it down to the a bare block and take the block to a automotive machaine shop.
You will be ahead on time and money.

 

AB, I read it might cause damage to pistons and/or rings to try to push them past the ridges?

 

Yeah, definantly take it to a machine shop. You might need to have the cylinders bored, depending on how bad the ridges are.

 

I agree it'd be good to have the cylinders bored, but I don't believe you run the risk of hitting the ridges with the pistons. The ridges are created by the pistons stopping at a certain point when they rise and wearing below the ridge, but not above. Since the ridge is created from the pistons stopping, I doubt you ever run the risk of them hitting.
If that makes sense.

 

There is a device used to remove the ridge so the block can be stripped. It is hand cranked and you can prob. rent one. Don't remove the pistons w/o doing that. Remove pistons/rods, bearings, crank, lifters, o.pump and everything. Rods and their bolts should be kept in EXACT order, and the rod nuts need to go back on the same way, not upside down!! Those threads have been pulled in one direction for a long time. Sometimes when you reverse them they give way after a while and end up in the oil pan, and lord only knows where that piston ends up. Then take it to the machine shop. Have them check the bores for taper, and have a magnaflux test on block and head for cracks. They also will need to
gauge the crank and rods. That will determine if the block should be bored, how much, or only honed. It will also tell them about resurfacing the crank and rods. And no, you need to have a shop hone it. Also have them ck the cam journals for true.

If you are going to keep it for a while, have the bottom end balanced, which is cheap. Count on spending about $400 on the block.

Good luck.

 

Awesome!
Thanks guys
oh...what about that siver thing next to oil filter, what is that?
Thanks again!
David

 

See the second post in this thread.

 

ooops...thanks!