Hey guys, I am at my wits end here with my banks drain tube leaking oil where it enter the valley pan. I have replaced the grommet 2 times and it still starts to leak within a couple months!! I am considering welding a hose barb onto the valley and then connecting a hose to the drain tube. Any thoughts on this, has this been done before, any tips on welding on it, is the valley steel? My brother said it would be too dangerous to do it while it is on the engine.

Thanks so much!

 

Id JB weld it before actuall weld it, and I too have constant issues back there. Really thin stuff

 

Brazing would be best. Off of the engine. If you can't braze it might be a hose barb with a 1/4 NPT male end, sealed with silicon, through a hole drilled in the valley pan and secured on the other side by a brass 1/4 NPT connector would work. Oh, and the pan is steel. About 12 or 14 gauge I would guess, real thin stuff.

 

All I see are ss barbs, can I weld SS to steel.

 

Yes you can. But brass would be better, and I dunno where you are shopping, but brass is extremely common.

 

I would say it'd be quite easy to tig weld on a hose barb. A tad more challenging for a mig or stick though of course, so if you don't have tig I'd recommend brazing. I've tig welded 3/16" brake line to a 1/2" bolt. (Needed to rig it up to pass an emissions inspection heh) If you weld it on it doesn't even have to be much of a hose barb really, you could tig a steel tube to the valley pan and tig weld a small bead around the end of the tube to keep the hose clamped on.

I must have been lucky with reusing my old grommet. Cleaned it all up real well, set it in place and then filleted over the grommet/pan/drain with RTV ultra black. No leaks from it.

 

Can't see why the trouble. Are sure you don't have a split in the drain tube somewhere? If you follow Banks directions you shouldn't have a problem. The area needs to be clean of oil and debris. Install the grommet then the tube. Then coat a liberal amount around the drain tube and grommet. Allow to dry. Did you punch some holes in the bottom of the drain hole in your valley pan when you installed the turbo so the oil can drain fast enough?

 

Alright guys, I need the truck so I think I'm gonna try the grommet one last time. I have been using blue RTV. Could that be a problem??

 

or you should have space to get a barb and thread something onthe bottom with 2 washers to fill any gaps and tons of silicone or jb weld itll be easier but with silicone or epoxy make sure its clean as hell

 

I've had good luck with permatex ultra black. You need to clean ALL the oil off of it and let it set up as long as you can before running it.
EDit: in general, I've had good luck with permatex ultra black. I've never tried it in this scenario.

 

icanfixall on OB, told me to use permatex copper. I put it on tonight with a lot of copper RTV so it better not leak!!!

 

i always opt for ultra black whenever oil is involved.

i have each of these coming actually right now to prepare for my banks install:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBNUDQ

i used the black on the rear axle for example.anywhere you want to protect against oil.

 

Same on the Ultra Black, I used it on my grommet with the banks drain tube. No leaks to speak of after almost a year.

 

I had been using RTV blue, The copper is the best stuff from what I read and thats what I used. I used blue for my rear diff. cover, it worked there.

 

could be.looking on permatex website,it looks like the copper is about the same as the black,but the copper withstands gasoline where the black doesnt.
edit,
well i dunno.look at each there.it appears the black they recommend for high oil resistance applications and the copper for use with gasoline resistance applications.
i think i'll be using the black there (the stuffs' never failed me,so why question it now anyway lol.)