1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Project: '86 Hay Wagon - NOW EFI!

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  #16  
Old 09-21-2011, 04:08 PM
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I do have a couple of pending issues. My cluster happens to be out of an '80. The brake light is the right turn signal and the high beam indicator doesn't even work anymore. I saw a write up for putting a newer cluster in a 1980, but not the other way around. Can mine be modified? Also all my cluster lights right of the tachometer are out. I assume a corrosion problem. Any easy fixes?

My transmission is from a 1986 Bronco. It's a C6 the mount is shot and I can't seem to find a replacement. It uses two ridiculous doughnut shaped bushings with sleeves. I'd like to upgrade to a more contemporary mount. Is that possible?

And as I said earlier my ignition switch seems messed up. I heard a snapping noise in the column and then I could turn the key all the way and I wouldn't get anything past the on position. Even with the cover off if I push the rod down I hear clicks, but no ignition.
 
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Old 09-21-2011, 06:02 PM
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Easy enough to reverse the pin out instructions of the swap for the older cluster, I would think.
Maybe you should do a writeup and it could be added to the sticky?

Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the copper contacts behind the cluster.
This can work for individual bulb sockets as well.

Is the actuator rod broken?
Have you checked the switch's plug down at the bottom of the column?
I know Pico makes a pigtail for these.
 
  #18  
Old 09-21-2011, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Easy enough to reverse the pin out instructions of the swap for the older cluster, I would think.
Maybe you should do a writeup and it could be added to the sticky?

Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the copper contacts behind the cluster.
This can work for individual bulb sockets as well.

Is the actuator rod broken?
Have you checked the switch's plug down at the bottom of the column?
I know Pico makes a pigtail for these.
I checked it out. I tried switching the pins the other way around, no luck what so ever. Here's what I was up to.







 
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Easy enough to reverse the pin out instructions of the swap for the older cluster, I would think.
Maybe you should do a writeup and it could be added to the sticky?

Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the copper contacts behind the cluster.
This can work for individual bulb sockets as well.

Is the actuator rod broken?
Have you checked the switch's plug down at the bottom of the column?
I know Pico makes a pigtail for these.
I was able to clean up the contacts and now all the lights work. The rod didn't break, I'm not sure what's going on.
 
  #20  
Old 09-22-2011, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Blue86
The rod didn't break, I'm not sure what's going on.
Has the little rack & pinion at the back of the lock cylinder stripped it's teeth?
 
  #21  
Old 09-22-2011, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Has the little rack & pinion at the back of the lock cylinder stripped it's teeth?
That actually sounds quite possible.
 
  #22  
Old 09-23-2011, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Has the little rack & pinion at the back of the lock cylinder stripped it's teeth?
The ignition actuator was broken.

I'm still having problems with the cluster. It's an 1980 cluster in an 1986 truck with an 1986 bezel. What am I missing?
 
  #23  
Old 09-23-2011, 04:14 PM
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There's a couple of articles/threads about repairing the broken actuator rod up in the stickies.

Both clusters have gauges, not idiot lights, right?

Don't you need to use the 1980 bezel to match the instruments???
I don't really know, but I think the right turn signal and brake light changed locations on the circuit board and you would have to change the little plastic lens, it this is the case.

So, if you swap pins 17 &18 (the Dark green/Light green wire with the Light green/ White wire) What happens?

The post is here; Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - HOWTO: 81-86 gauge cluster in 80 model (gauge models ONLY!)
 
  #24  
Old 09-23-2011, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
There's a couple of articles/threads about repairing the broken actuator rod up in the stickies.

Both clusters have gauges, not idiot lights, right?

Don't you need to use the 1980 bezel to match the instruments???
I don't really know, but I think the right turn signal and brake light changed locations on the circuit board and you would have to change the little plastic lens, it this is the case.

So, if you swap pins 17 &18 (the Dark green/Light green wire with the Light green/ White wire) What happens?

The post is here; Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - HOWTO: 81-86 gauge cluster in 80 model (gauge models ONLY!)
Yep. I read that. Followed the instructions. I believe after I swapped the right turn light stayed on solid and when I used the right turn it turned very dim. I tried checking continuity on the two circuit boards, but they appear to be different. Since the tachometer worked fine with my harness I decided just to take the tachometer out of the new (old 1980) cluster and just hard wire into my 1986 cluster (that had no tachometer).

It doesn't look pretty.



But it works.

Also while I was in there I fixed my weak tilt and my turn signal cancellation problem. Yay!
 
  #25  
Old 09-23-2011, 05:01 PM
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However I am still looking for a new mount for my C6... I can't seem to find one anywhere.
 
  #26  
Old 09-23-2011, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue86
Yep. I read that. Followed the instructions. I believe after I swapped the right turn light stayed on solid and when I used the right turn it turned very dim. I tried checking continuity on the two circuit boards, but they appear to be different.
This???

Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Yes. The right turn and brake warning wires are in the same spot at the plug (15/16), and the printed circuit just routes them to different places. They cannot be swapped like the left turn/seatbelt wires (17/18) as the brake warning light has power to it anytime the key is on, but only lights up when the pressure warning switch or park brake switch (newer trucks only) grounds the circuit, while the turn indicator only sees power when the signal is flashing and has it's own ground.
Swapping 15/16 will not move the lights in the dash. It results in one that stays lit anytime the key is on, and one that never lights up. Ask me how I know.......
(more letters to make the forum software happy)
 
  #27  
Old 09-23-2011, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue86
However I am still looking for a new mount for my C6... I can't seem to find one anywhere.
Sorry, never owned an automatic.

I can try and look it up for you when I get home and have my parts fiche in front of me.
 
  #28  
Old 09-23-2011, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
This???



....
Sounds like the issue. This truck used to be a manual actually. I just never enjoyed driving a vehicle so big with that big clunky gearbox. Plus with the turbocharger it will hold boost between shifts.
 
  #29  
Old 09-23-2011, 08:41 PM
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Also I guess if anyone needs a 1980 circuit board wired for a tach I have one.
 
  #30  
Old 10-01-2011, 02:49 PM
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I took it down the highway the other day and on my way home it started missing. I did a compression test after looking at the plugs and I have a few cylinders that are sitting at 45 psi. So it looks like the EFI conversion will be coming sooner than I hoped. Good thing I have another motor in the garage.
 


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