Project: '86 Hay Wagon - NOW EFI!
#16
I do have a couple of pending issues. My cluster happens to be out of an '80. The brake light is the right turn signal and the high beam indicator doesn't even work anymore. I saw a write up for putting a newer cluster in a 1980, but not the other way around. Can mine be modified? Also all my cluster lights right of the tachometer are out. I assume a corrosion problem. Any easy fixes?
My transmission is from a 1986 Bronco. It's a C6 the mount is shot and I can't seem to find a replacement. It uses two ridiculous doughnut shaped bushings with sleeves. I'd like to upgrade to a more contemporary mount. Is that possible?
And as I said earlier my ignition switch seems messed up. I heard a snapping noise in the column and then I could turn the key all the way and I wouldn't get anything past the on position. Even with the cover off if I push the rod down I hear clicks, but no ignition.
My transmission is from a 1986 Bronco. It's a C6 the mount is shot and I can't seem to find a replacement. It uses two ridiculous doughnut shaped bushings with sleeves. I'd like to upgrade to a more contemporary mount. Is that possible?
And as I said earlier my ignition switch seems messed up. I heard a snapping noise in the column and then I could turn the key all the way and I wouldn't get anything past the on position. Even with the cover off if I push the rod down I hear clicks, but no ignition.
#17
Easy enough to reverse the pin out instructions of the swap for the older cluster, I would think.
Maybe you should do a writeup and it could be added to the sticky?
Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the copper contacts behind the cluster.
This can work for individual bulb sockets as well.
Is the actuator rod broken?
Have you checked the switch's plug down at the bottom of the column?
I know Pico makes a pigtail for these.
Maybe you should do a writeup and it could be added to the sticky?
Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the copper contacts behind the cluster.
This can work for individual bulb sockets as well.
Is the actuator rod broken?
Have you checked the switch's plug down at the bottom of the column?
I know Pico makes a pigtail for these.
#18
Easy enough to reverse the pin out instructions of the swap for the older cluster, I would think.
Maybe you should do a writeup and it could be added to the sticky?
Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the copper contacts behind the cluster.
This can work for individual bulb sockets as well.
Is the actuator rod broken?
Have you checked the switch's plug down at the bottom of the column?
I know Pico makes a pigtail for these.
Maybe you should do a writeup and it could be added to the sticky?
Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the copper contacts behind the cluster.
This can work for individual bulb sockets as well.
Is the actuator rod broken?
Have you checked the switch's plug down at the bottom of the column?
I know Pico makes a pigtail for these.
#19
Easy enough to reverse the pin out instructions of the swap for the older cluster, I would think.
Maybe you should do a writeup and it could be added to the sticky?
Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the copper contacts behind the cluster.
This can work for individual bulb sockets as well.
Is the actuator rod broken?
Have you checked the switch's plug down at the bottom of the column?
I know Pico makes a pigtail for these.
Maybe you should do a writeup and it could be added to the sticky?
Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the copper contacts behind the cluster.
This can work for individual bulb sockets as well.
Is the actuator rod broken?
Have you checked the switch's plug down at the bottom of the column?
I know Pico makes a pigtail for these.
#20
#21
#22
#23
There's a couple of articles/threads about repairing the broken actuator rod up in the stickies.
Both clusters have gauges, not idiot lights, right?
Don't you need to use the 1980 bezel to match the instruments???
I don't really know, but I think the right turn signal and brake light changed locations on the circuit board and you would have to change the little plastic lens, it this is the case.
So, if you swap pins 17 &18 (the Dark green/Light green wire with the Light green/ White wire) What happens?
The post is here; Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - HOWTO: 81-86 gauge cluster in 80 model (gauge models ONLY!)
Both clusters have gauges, not idiot lights, right?
Don't you need to use the 1980 bezel to match the instruments???
I don't really know, but I think the right turn signal and brake light changed locations on the circuit board and you would have to change the little plastic lens, it this is the case.
So, if you swap pins 17 &18 (the Dark green/Light green wire with the Light green/ White wire) What happens?
The post is here; Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - HOWTO: 81-86 gauge cluster in 80 model (gauge models ONLY!)
#24
There's a couple of articles/threads about repairing the broken actuator rod up in the stickies.
Both clusters have gauges, not idiot lights, right?
Don't you need to use the 1980 bezel to match the instruments???
I don't really know, but I think the right turn signal and brake light changed locations on the circuit board and you would have to change the little plastic lens, it this is the case.
So, if you swap pins 17 &18 (the Dark green/Light green wire with the Light green/ White wire) What happens?
The post is here; Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - HOWTO: 81-86 gauge cluster in 80 model (gauge models ONLY!)
Both clusters have gauges, not idiot lights, right?
Don't you need to use the 1980 bezel to match the instruments???
I don't really know, but I think the right turn signal and brake light changed locations on the circuit board and you would have to change the little plastic lens, it this is the case.
So, if you swap pins 17 &18 (the Dark green/Light green wire with the Light green/ White wire) What happens?
The post is here; Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - HOWTO: 81-86 gauge cluster in 80 model (gauge models ONLY!)
It doesn't look pretty.
But it works.
Also while I was in there I fixed my weak tilt and my turn signal cancellation problem. Yay!
#26
Yes. The right turn and brake warning wires are in the same spot at the plug (15/16), and the printed circuit just routes them to different places. They cannot be swapped like the left turn/seatbelt wires (17/18) as the brake warning light has power to it anytime the key is on, but only lights up when the pressure warning switch or park brake switch (newer trucks only) grounds the circuit, while the turn indicator only sees power when the signal is flashing and has it's own ground.
Swapping 15/16 will not move the lights in the dash. It results in one that stays lit anytime the key is on, and one that never lights up. Ask me how I know.......
Swapping 15/16 will not move the lights in the dash. It results in one that stays lit anytime the key is on, and one that never lights up. Ask me how I know.......
#27
#28
#30
I took it down the highway the other day and on my way home it started missing. I did a compression test after looking at the plugs and I have a few cylinders that are sitting at 45 psi. So it looks like the EFI conversion will be coming sooner than I hoped. Good thing I have another motor in the garage.