1949 F-1 Updated Restoration Begins!
#1
1949 F-1 Updated Restoration Begins!
I lucked out and had the weekend available to go and pickup my new project.
Today I had some time and decent enough weather to start some work on it. I managed to remove the front clip so far:
Many months more work to go. I'll post progress for everyone as I go along.
Today I had some time and decent enough weather to start some work on it. I managed to remove the front clip so far:
Many months more work to go. I'll post progress for everyone as I go along.
#3
My plan for it is an updated off frame restoration. The goal being visually (exterior & cabin) to return it to stock condition. However, we blan on using the truck as a farm vehicle for a small homestead in the future. And by farm vehicle I mean back & forth to the farmer's market etc.
I plan to use a 302(351W??) paired with a T19 and 9" rear end. Upgrade the rear drums, and add front discs.
The Flathead 6 in the truck is in pretty sorry shape, and two owners ago had tried unsuccessfully to remove the head. If I had room in the garage, I'd likely throw it in a corner and look at rebuilding it an a couple years. As it is I'll be looking for a home for it.
So much still to figure out!
Speaking of which, since I'm having to break, cut or grind off every bolt...is there a place a guy can get good bolts in bulk of these standard sizes?
#4
Hey JB,
Sounds like a good plan - My 1950 F1 as I started is below just for comparisons. The paint covers a lot ills. Let me look around to see where we got the bolts from - I remember there is one parts house that has every bolt on the truck for like $100. I had a 289 in mine to start & we replaced it with a bit too much horsepower - a modified 351W.
Ben in Austin
(Edit your profile & stick in there your location - there may be some guys who are close by that can help out if you get stuck).
Sounds like a good plan - My 1950 F1 as I started is below just for comparisons. The paint covers a lot ills. Let me look around to see where we got the bolts from - I remember there is one parts house that has every bolt on the truck for like $100. I had a 289 in mine to start & we replaced it with a bit too much horsepower - a modified 351W.
Ben in Austin
(Edit your profile & stick in there your location - there may be some guys who are close by that can help out if you get stuck).
#6
Looks very nice.
Thanks for the info about the profile, I've added Kansas City. I actually bought the truck from a fellow FTE'r who has a second '49 he's restoring. It'll be nice to have some experience close by.
I don't suppose you've done the Toyota power steering upgrade with your 351W in there? Thats my biggest question about going with the 351 over the 302. Whether there is clearance enough between the headers and the steering box without boxing the frame?
I don't suppose you've any pictures handy of where you mounted the 351? The Flat-6 is supported very far to the front, and I seem to recall the SBFs mounting mid-block.
Thanks for the info about the profile, I've added Kansas City. I actually bought the truck from a fellow FTE'r who has a second '49 he's restoring. It'll be nice to have some experience close by.
I don't suppose you've done the Toyota power steering upgrade with your 351W in there? Thats my biggest question about going with the 351 over the 302. Whether there is clearance enough between the headers and the steering box without boxing the frame?
I don't suppose you've any pictures handy of where you mounted the 351? The Flat-6 is supported very far to the front, and I seem to recall the SBFs mounting mid-block.
#7
Hey JB,
I've attached a pic of the motor mount & then the engine
placement in the truck. Not sure that angle shows enough but it will give you an idea - the engine was mounted about 1 inch over toward the passenger side to give a little more room for the power steering, headers, steering column, etc. on the driver's side. It get's pretty crowded over there on the driver's side.
I've got relatives just North of Kansas City - outside St. Joe.
Ben in Austin
I've attached a pic of the motor mount & then the engine
placement in the truck. Not sure that angle shows enough but it will give you an idea - the engine was mounted about 1 inch over toward the passenger side to give a little more room for the power steering, headers, steering column, etc. on the driver's side. It get's pretty crowded over there on the driver's side.
I've got relatives just North of Kansas City - outside St. Joe.
Ben in Austin
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#8
Hey JB,
Mine may not be a perfect comparison for you as I do not have the toyota steering box on there. I went with a mustang II frontend from No Limit Engineering that had the rack built into it. I hear good things about the toyota power steering box & they can be had reasonably. Good luck over there - time to call it quits tonight for me.
Ben in Austin
Mine may not be a perfect comparison for you as I do not have the toyota steering box on there. I went with a mustang II frontend from No Limit Engineering that had the rack built into it. I hear good things about the toyota power steering box & they can be had reasonably. Good luck over there - time to call it quits tonight for me.
Ben in Austin
#9
#10
Hey JB,
My front suspension was bought as a kit from No Limit - It replaced the entire solid front axle that was originally there. The motor mounts I believe came from Mid-fifty were then welded in. This is a pretty expensive route to take - if you can work with the solid straight axle that's there & rebuild it might be less expensive. I went with the kit to get front disc brakes & my steering was too unstable to take on major highways. I live in a city of >1M people & a farm truck suspension & braking wasn't safe or comfortable.
The front suspension was replaced & then the motor was set in there.
It was a tight fit but it worked out ok - You have to move it over to the
passenger side a little & mine is tilted back a few degrees to get the angle correct with the transmission & drive shaft. Get rear sump oil pan so you can clear the front axle - This a major PITA - some guys have had a heck of a time getting it to clear.
Ben in Austin
Ben in Austin
My front suspension was bought as a kit from No Limit - It replaced the entire solid front axle that was originally there. The motor mounts I believe came from Mid-fifty were then welded in. This is a pretty expensive route to take - if you can work with the solid straight axle that's there & rebuild it might be less expensive. I went with the kit to get front disc brakes & my steering was too unstable to take on major highways. I live in a city of >1M people & a farm truck suspension & braking wasn't safe or comfortable.
The front suspension was replaced & then the motor was set in there.
It was a tight fit but it worked out ok - You have to move it over to the
passenger side a little & mine is tilted back a few degrees to get the angle correct with the transmission & drive shaft. Get rear sump oil pan so you can clear the front axle - This a major PITA - some guys have had a heck of a time getting it to clear.
Ben in Austin
Ben in Austin
#13
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