May I be so naive to ask why? What makes it different from a 1992 style?

Just for future reference....

 

I got mine for $50. That was upper, and lower, injectors, and fuel rail.

 

I know 94-96 the distributors had a steel gear for the roller cam. Thats the only difference I know.

And I think the 96 distributor had a bigger shaft. (think not sure)

 

you just want to make sure and get a dizzy for remote mount TFI. i know 91 and older had the tfi mounted on the dizzy which wont be plugNplay

 

Progress is being made, slowly but surely. Took a closer look at the head, Im just going to switch over to longer studs to hold the intake on, and I think ill be ok.
Found out the engine has been rebuilt in its lifetime, pistons are stamped .060. Dissassembled down to the rotating assembly, removed the heads, cleaned all gasket surfaces, cleaned up the valve seats and installed new seals, reinstalled the heads, got the lifters/pushrods/rockers back in. pulled timing cover, cleaned, installed new front main seal, reinstalled
This engine is kind of a mixed bag. I can tell it was rebuilt fairly recently, but after my buddy let it sit so much, theres sludge and carbon starting to form everywhere. Also due to the leaking intake gasket, most everything has small rust spots everywhere. Luckily with a little elbow grease its all coming off.
Sorry no pics, kinda got into the teardown and forgot

 

i would replace the oil pump while you have it apart. just run a standard volume pump, no need for anything fancy. I would also recommend you run Rotella or Delo 15w40 oil for the first 3000 miles. also run only a wix, motorcraft or purolator oil filter but i am sure you already knew that.

you might also consider getting a larger 4 core radiator, being that motor is already 60 overbore it has the potential for running hot. do you have funds for a cam swap? just so you have something that will for sure work with the Speed Density efi.

 

Yes, already have a new oil pump for it, I had to replace the radiator about a year ago, and went with the stock 351 size, so i should be good there, No funds for a cam swap, but im running MAF anyways so the stock 351HO cam shouldnt be an issue anyways...
As far as running 15w40, why? I figured a thinner oil early would be better, allow it to get into all the nooks and crannys quicker...?

 

rotella and delo have zinc additives in them to help internal components mesh and wear better... You can also just buy a zinc additive that you put in with regualr 10w40. If you replaced any berings inside the engine or anything that needs a break-in period.... don't use synthetic! Wait until 5k to run synthetic if you're going to...

x1000 million on wix!

if you haven't bought your ign parts yet or will need to in the future... you might want to check into the sixlitre tuneup for a extra couple hp and maybe a little better mpgs...
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...t=63592&page=2

 

Yup, got motorcraft plugs, picking up new cap n rotor this afternoon. Forgot that when i ordered all my other stuff lol. My wires are only 2 years old on the 302, im just going to reuse them. Dont have the money for the msd coil, gonna stick w/ stock for now.

 

the slightly heavier oil will actually improve the break in process and help seat the rings. i have 4500 miles on my 5.8 and run the delo and its been great. it also is great for keeping it clean inside. you only need to run this oil till you reach the 5000 - 6000 mile mark then move over to what ever you want.

I will be going to a synthetic soon, something around 10-40 or even thicker maybe since its a play rig and sees some extreme conditions.

 

i run mobil-1 synthetics in everything i drive with a WIX filter! of course not for break ins tho...

 

How do you feel about delvac? Im a mechanic in a fleet shop, we run delvac in everything, and i can get 6qts of that free if it will work.

 

honestly on a break in period it doesn't matter what you run as long as it's 10w30, 10w40 or maybe a little thicker and NOT synthetic!!!! weight doesn't matter as much as having the zinc additive in there... you can run wal-mart oil as long as you drop in ZDDP or Lucas zinc additive...

I got a 3pk of ZDDP off amazon for like $20-$25 ish...

 

Update!! So for not getting many pics last time, here you go!

Heres what it looked like when i started last night


Lower intake on. Used studs in a couple of suspect holes, loctited them down, and things torqued down properly


Water pump and crank pulley installed. Will be using the OEM pully bolts as soon as I can get them, these are only grade 5 to hold it on


Headers on. Now its starting to look like an engine!! These are the "summit" brand shorties. Came in a box labeled pacesetter, has a pacesetter tag welded on em, and even a pacesetter sticker in the box lol.


Other side of the engine. Put the old oil filter back on to keep crud out


Oil pan cleaned, oil pump installed pan installed and torqued down. Man i love these new 1 piece oil pan gaskets, SO much nicer than the old style!!!


And just an overall shot of where i finished last night.

 

What can you tell me about this engine?
It reads E4AE-6015-4A-20 I believe. Picture looked alot clearer last nite....


And heres what it looks like headed down to my headers.... I may not be able to have a dipstick tube on this one....


And just a random shot of my highly organized workbench lol